Another 2002 v8 swap - 8 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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JAMMAN

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Nice emblem!

You are welcome and the longer you know me you will find I never have quite made it all the way in the box.

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Posted: Thu Oct 24th, 2019 08:55 am

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Idahome

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those are the same 5.0 stickers I used on the white 99 truck, I put just one on the tailgate
Well done!

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Posted: Thu Oct 24th, 2019 02:45 pm

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Scrambler82
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I tried to read all of the postings BUT I didn't... My first v-8 Swap was in my first Ranger, 1988 STX High Boy, 4x, great Truck, I swapped in a '93 Stang with TCI C4 Auto, everything went as easy as you can possibly imagine... with the help of friends at J&B Auto, Gloucester.

As time went on a started taking trips, on the Hy-way, 65 mph, and the Temp Gauge went upper 210. It never boiled over but it ran hot.

To add to the description of the Truck, Lifted 6", oversized tires, didn't rewear for the tire change, removed the front air dam, no front skid plate, and I ran an Advanced Adapters Custom Aluminum Radiator,four core, high flow.

After trying different T-Stats, different fans... electrical vs manual, and getting where, a friend was friends with a Ford Engineer and we talked. He suggested it was blockage of air Flo through the radiator because of the lift and air dam removal. Well I was not taking the lift out and the air dam was too high to really help anyway, so I decided to lift the rear of the hood to see if I could release the back pressure in the engine compartment. Bingo... the truck ran around the 200 degree level.

So where am I going, just keep in mind with all the alterations we do we need to keep the air flow in mind. the biggest radiator won't do much if the air flow through the radiator isn't enough. If after all the changes, you find the temp is still not as low as you want it consider checking the flow through the radiator by just raising the back of the hood one inch; just enough to relieve the pressure.

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2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !

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Posted: Sun Oct 27th, 2019 01:57 pm

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4.0power
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Scrambler82 wrote:
I tried to read all of the postings BUT I didn't... My first v-8 Swap was in my first Ranger, 1988 STX High Boy, 4x, great Truck, I swapped in a '93 Stang with TCI C4 Auto, everything went as easy as you can possibly imagine... with the help of friends at J&B Auto, Gloucester.

As time went on a started taking trips, on the Hy-way, 65 mph, and the Temp Gauge went upper 210. It never boiled over but it ran hot.

To add to the description of the Truck, Lifted 6", oversized tires, didn't rewear for the tire change, removed the front air dam, no front skid plate, and I ran an Advanced Adapters Custom Aluminum Radiator,four core, high flow.

After trying different T-Stats, different fans... electrical vs manual, and getting where, a friend was friends with a Ford Engineer and we talked. He suggested it was blockage of air Flo through the radiator because of the lift and air dam removal. Well I was not taking the lift out and the air dam was too high to really help anyway, so I decided to lift the rear of the hood to see if I could release the back pressure in the engine compartment. Bingo... the truck ran around the 200 degree level.

So where am I going, just keep in mind with all the alterations we do we need to keep the air flow in mind. the biggest radiator won't do much if the air flow through the radiator isn't enough. If after all the changes, you find the temp is still not as low as you want it consider checking the flow through the radiator by just raising the back of the hood one inch; just enough to relieve the pressure.
I've been thinking about cutting out the raised part of the hood making it a mini cowl hood. But thank you for the info! I'm not concerned with over heating since I'm sitting on stock-ish sized tires and what not. I like having the stuff in it to allow the motor to be â€œover cooledâ€ if I'm running it hard.

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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10 rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason itâ€™s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans

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Posted: Sun Oct 27th, 2019 02:02 pm

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4.0power
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is This a egr controller of sorts? I want to use the later style intake elbow but I'm using a 1996 harness which has a totally different connector. I do plan on getting a sct x4 and getting it totally turned off but for the mean time would the 1996 computer work with the later egr plugged into it?

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Posted: Wed Oct 30th, 2019 09:46 pm

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4.0power
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Got the eBay aluminum radiator in! First impression-not bad quality. Only one tad is bent out of the box. The left side fan shroud clip is a bit low... not to use if I'm gona mess with it or not. But none the less I'd say long as no welds leak. It's better than a plastic one model.

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Posted: Thu Oct 31st, 2019 10:12 am

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Idahome

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4.0power wrote:
is This a egr controller of sorts? I want to use the later style intake elbow but I'm using a 1996 harness which has a totally different connector. I do plan on getting a sct x4 and getting it totally turned off but for the mean time would the 1996 computer work with the later egr plugged into it?
That is not a EGR controller it is the DPFE Differential Pressure Feedback sensor EGR
It tells the computer how much EGR is flowing through the same tubes. The aluminum ones tend to get plugged up internally, you can replace it with the later model plastic one

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Posted: Thu Oct 31st, 2019 11:31 am

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4.0power
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410customs wrote:
4.0power wrote:

is This a egr controller of sorts? I want to use the later style intake elbow but I'm using a 1996 harness which has a totally different connector. I do plan on getting a sct x4 and getting it totally turned off but for the mean time would the 1996 computer work with the later egr plugged into it?
That is not a EGR controller it is the DPFE Differential Pressure Feedback sensor EGR
It tells the computer how much EGR is flowing through the same tubes. The aluminum ones tend to get plugged up internally, you can replace it with the later model plastic one
Am I able wire in this sensor into the older harness? I can hide this sensor a lot easier than the 1996 egr

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Posted: Thu Oct 31st, 2019 11:57 am

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Idahome

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that is a good question I will look into this today........ something I have not done before. The 96 system is different then the 98+ system... let me look see if we can make the wiring for the older 96 system work with the 98+ style plumbing

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Posted: Sat Nov 9th, 2019 10:57 pm

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4.0power
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For the wiring gurus: I can't seem to finding in the evtm what number 16 R/LG and 34 LB/O on the 42 pin connector (1996 explorer) do or should I say what they relay back for fourth.

These two buggers are holding me back from getting under way on my harness.

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 10:27 am

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Idahome

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Ill look these up for you

Pin numbers 16 & 34?
16 red with light green
34 Light blue with orange

Ill get my wiring book out this am for you

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 10:34 am

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410customs wrote:
Ill look these up for you

Pin numbers 16 & 34?
16 red with light green
34 Light blue with orange

Ill get my wiring book out this am for you
Yup just those two! You tell I typed that late last night since it is not worded the best

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 10:54 am

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Okay first up I do not think we can use the 96-97 style EGR with the 98-01 EGR controls or vise versa
Te 96-97 EGR uses a pointometer to tell the PCM how far open or closed the EGR valve is, this is diff from the 98+ setup which uses the DPFE

Options:
With a tune you can remove EGR or plumb in the correct style

The wires in C115 1996 Explorer 42 pin connector:
okay so the 16 and 34 are not pin numbers

RD/LG should be at pin 1, circuit #16, + feed / distribution from PCM to coil (and possibly others)
LB/OG should be at pin 36, circuit # 34, + feed / power to heated 02 sensors (in trans plug from 02 sensors to power dist)

Something to know about the C110/112/115 plug is the pin locations/wire functions should be in the same spot for all Fords 95-2005, regardless of color the locations SHOULD not move

Last edited on Sun Nov 10th, 2019 11:02 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 10:55 am

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4.0power
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410customs wrote:
Okay first up I do not think we can use the 96-97 style EGR with the 98-01 EGR controls or vise versa
Te 96-97 EGR uses a pointometer to tell the PCM how far open or closed the EGR valve is, this is diff from the 98+ setup which uses the DPFE

Options:
With a tune you can remove EGR or plumb in the correct style

The wires in C115 1996 Explorer 42 pin connector:
Pin 16
Well I'm gona go with a tune, I got a sct X4 on the way.

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 11:09 am

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Idahome

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edited with wiring info

hope this helps!

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 11:10 am

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4.0power
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410customs wrote:
edited with wiring info

hope this helps!
Yes it does thank you!

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Posted: Sun Nov 10th, 2019 09:55 pm

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4.0power
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Scored a super 44 for 50 bucks! Didn't even try to haggle the guy down.

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Posted: Sat Nov 16th, 2019 01:24 pm

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4.0power
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Well I let my one uncle convince me to lift the body off the frame. Figured I can fix any rust on the cab easy as pie.

Any one know if I can get some polyurethane body mounts? figured since I'll have it off perfect time to replace the old rubber ones

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Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 08:46 am

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Will this tranny mount work with a 4r70w even tho it says for v6's only?

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Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 09:59 am

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Idahome

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no
you need one for a aod
They don't sell urethane mounts for the Explorer 5.0 and its trans mount is unique
Your 4r70w is a AOD (built in AOD AOD-E case)
So get a urethane mount for a mustang or F150 with the AOD
That brings up the next issue
The explorer trans mount is like 1.5" tall
This urethane mount is like 3.5" tall
You will have to remove about 2" of height from your cross member

two links for you
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/broken-tranny-mount-after-4406-swap-what-can-be-done.337192/page-2#post-2893895

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSC01382_Medium_1.JPG

They make a kit to beef up your existing mount! Not sure its going to work with ours but its a good idea I saw a while back
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/hd-transmission-mounts.469173/#post-3675232

I am going to modify the cross member and use the urethane mount on this 07

Last edited on Sun Nov 17th, 2019 10:07 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 04:55 pm

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4.0power
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Looks like some simple cutting and welding is involved which is not a problem. I'd rather work the crossmember than pop mounts in left and right.

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Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 07:41 pm

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4.0power
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Yea I might just live with obx since currently they are that much cheaper than torque monsters.

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Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 07:44 pm

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Went to the junk yard, looking for a fan blade and clutch, ended up coming home with a set of heated explorer limited seats! Can't wait to get them cleaned and throw them in!

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Posted: Mon Nov 18th, 2019 08:15 am

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JAMMAN

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4.0power wrote:
Yea I might just live with obx since currently they are that much cheaper than torque monsters.
Is that the version for the P heads and do you or do you not have P heads? The non P 's cheaper since they don't have the 2 piece passenger side. I don't see the 2 piece in the picture.

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Posted: Mon Nov 18th, 2019 08:17 am

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JAMMAN

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And I hate to be a double downer LOL but you will have a longer road than you think mounting those seats in your ranger. Do plenty of research first. I myself wouldn't attempt it unless it was for a customer request.

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