Truck wont start - 6 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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black06xlt
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I'm at loss on this one. I'm thinking my fuel pump died on me? 2006 ranger 4.0 auto is what I have. Tonight on my way home from work my truck dies like the key was shut off and wont restart. I get the truck home and it starts runs great for about 15 minutes then sputters and dies. I start checking fuses relays and codes. All fuses fine all relays fine. I have 2 codes p0442 emissions code had this code for years and a p0128 thermostat code. Engine is a little low but has heat for days. I dont see either of these codes being a problem. After about 30 minutes of checking things the truck starts up runs great for about 15 minutes again then sputters and dies. I googled my problem that was no help. I pulled a plug to check for spark things appear to be good there. I'm leaning towards a bad fuel pump. What do you guys think?

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Posted: Fri Dec 28th, 2018 07:18 am

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JAMMAN

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You need to monitor the fuel pressure and the electrical going to the pump.

On mine the inertia switch is right under the dash on the floor on the passenger side, I bought 2 gauges but have not hooked them up yet. You can get a schrader valve adapter for cheap and put a gauge on it. I have the entire setup I just haven't plumbed it in yet been really busy saving the world.

If it does start, watch both. If the voltage quits at the inertia switch then there is something wrong on the electrical side. If voltage stays and pressure drops the pump is failing.

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Posted: Fri Dec 28th, 2018 08:50 am

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black06xlt
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I'm at the point where I'm ready to cut it up

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Posted: Fri Dec 28th, 2018 09:10 am

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JAMMAN

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Come get ur whitey

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Posted: Fri Dec 28th, 2018 10:02 am

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black06xlt
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JAMMAN wrote:
Come get ur whitey
I may just do that

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Posted: Fri Dec 28th, 2018 10:10 am

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How many miles?

This sounds like a weak fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
Next time it dies out press on the schrader valve and see if there is any fuel pressure, my guess is there will be very minimal

When she is cold and before you start it listen to the fuel pump prime. How does it sound? Like a strong healthy pump or like a weak motor?
Start it up, let it run, sputter and die. Now try again, listen to the pump. Does it even run? Does it sound weak?

You can remove the fuel filler cap and listen through the filler neck if that helps.

Next step would be a test light or multimeter and a fuel pressure gauge. Your 06 should have 62-68 PSI fuel rail pressure, if its less then that you likely have a bad pump

Old fuel pumps get weak and run fine when they are cool but heat them up a little bit and their ability to keep up with demand diminishes until you are left on the side of the road.
Stock pumps usually fail around 150K miles BUT I have seen them last over 300k miles too.........the later model (2004+) returnless style pumps can go a long long time.........(less heat, longer pump life)

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Posted: Fri Dec 28th, 2018 12:28 pm

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black06xlt
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98,674 miles no shrader valve

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Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2018 11:18 am

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No schrader valve? Is this a 3.0?

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Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2018 07:37 pm

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black06xlt
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4.0

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Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2018 06:48 am

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JAMMAN

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The more I think about it I worry that your inertia switch was bad from one of the many things this truck has encountered during the years or wiring upset by the bed change.

Less than 100K miles is a little early on average for a fuel pump to cack.

Hope you put the volt meter on before just buying a pump!

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Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2018 10:09 am

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black06xlt
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JAMMAN wrote:
The more I think about it I worry that your inertia switch was bad from one of the many things this truck has encountered during the years or wiring upset by the bed change.

Less than 100K miles is a little early on average for a fuel pump to cack.

Hope you put the volt meter on before just buying a pump!
To be honest I really havent messed with it. I ordered a new pump and filter. Just figured for $45 for the pump I'd go ahead and get it. I checked the interia switch it appears to be working fine. I've been considering getting rid of it. The truck is getting to the point in its life where it's starting to cost me money and I'm starting to lose interest in it. So I've got some thinking to do on it. I keep looking at the new Broncos. So it might be coming up for sale

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Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2018 11:35 am

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No schrader valve on a 2006 4.0???????? I'm gonna go downstairs and look I have an 05 engine in the shop
I was pretty sure it had one?

For testing just bypass the inertia switch

The new Bronco heck yeah! Which one? big or little?

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Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2018 11:46 am

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I know the 08 didn't have one on the 4.0 you have to use an inline gauge. Don't know the 06 but probably the same.

I think it was a stupid move not including one.

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Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2018 12:13 pm

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black06xlt
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410customs wrote:
No schrader valve on a 2006 4.0???????? I'm gonna go downstairs and look I have an 05 engine in the shop
I was pretty sure it had one?

For testing just bypass the inertia switch

The new Bronco heck yeah! Which one? big or little?
Little then make it big

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Posted: Thu Jan 3rd, 2019 01:55 pm

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black06xlt
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Well I'm happy to report that after changing the fuel pump I'm pretty sure I fixed the problem. While I was at it I replaced the fuel filter. Almost positive that this is the first time the filter has been changed and what a bitch that turned out to be.

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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 10:55 am

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I love my 1988 sometimes, still uses the plastic clips in the fuel lines instead of the spring loaded pressure release fittings that only an act of god can separate at times.....
The fuel filter seems to have been forgotten ever since they took it out of the engine bay and put it on the frame rail, rarely EVER do trucks come to us with a fuel filter that was ever replaced!!! Probably because the mechanics who change them on these Gen II trucks would rather not bother because they know if god is not helping on that day a simple filter replacement can turn into a fuel line fixing nightmare :)
PB blaster and a good set of fuel line tools are the way to get the attention of the big man upstairs who will see you through this painstaking process.
It would be interesting to cut open your old filter and have a look see at the filter media, I bet its nasty!!
Whomever decided to put the spring inside the pressure fitting on modern fuel lines and that they should act like a Chinese finger puzzle should be SHOT

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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 11:38 am

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black06xlt
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I cut it apart. It was all plugged up. I'm guessing it was restricting flow and putting a load on the pump causing it to heat up and stop working. Runs like the day it did when it was new

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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 12:40 pm

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yes these factory pumps have the potential to damn near last forever when treated well... hardly any wear items inside the modern returnless in tank pump
We see 300K miles from them if you keep your tank over 1/8 full and change your filter from time to time! I do 60K miles because we live in the dirt and that silty crap finds its way into everything!!! I use motorcraft filters or WIX pretty much ONLY

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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 01:58 pm

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black06xlt
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I've owned my truck since new and I cant remember ever doing a fuel filter. With almost 90,000 miles it's well due for a complete service. I put plugs in a 75,000 I think I'm gona due plugs wires and a coil pack.

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 11:03 am

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air filter, fuel filter, service the t case front and rear diffs! You know the things everyone forgets about.
Oh and Ford says to change your timing chain tensioners at 90K on the SOHC, I am not sure ANYONE has ever done that
I like to install manual chain tensioners :) But that is another topic all together..........

Last edited on Sun Jan 6th, 2019 11:04 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 11:20 am

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black06xlt
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Air filter is a k&n cone it gets washed and reoiled every oil change rear diff was done this past summer when I did the expo IRS diff cover front diff is getting done when the new deals get here tcase and trans were done about a year ago as was the coolant and power steering fluid. I'll deal with the timing if I ever have to pull the engine. I ordered plugs. I changed them once when I put jba headers on but I've been noticing a small hesitation on a pull so plugs and wires and coil pack are on the list

Last edited on Sun Jan 6th, 2019 11:24 am by black06xlt

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 11:53 am

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clean the mas for hesitation
I switched to dry filters a few years ago, Amsoil/Injen blue no more oil
K&N is now old tech and people tend to WAY over oil them = the thin wires in the MAS get coated in oil film and start to collect dust

Last edited on Sun Jan 6th, 2019 12:14 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 12:06 pm

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black06xlt
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I'll try that.

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Posted: Mon Jan 7th, 2019 10:00 am

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black06xlt
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Ok so after about 4 days of running my truck the problem started again when I was sitting in the parking lot work. Sputtered then died like it ran out of gas. So the new fuel pump didnt fix the issue. It did start right back up after I left it sit for about 20 minutes. I'm leaning towards the interia switch? Any thoughts?

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Posted: Mon Jan 7th, 2019 10:25 am

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OK - so next time the truck does that to you, try this - jump out and remove the gas tank cap - a sudden rush of air into the tank will indicate the cap breather hole or the tank vent system is blocked.

If it is, as soon as the pump can't overcome the vacuum it has created in the tank the engine will die, leave it a while and the vacuum collapses.

No guarantee this is your problem but worth checking out.

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