98 4.0 Ranger - 6 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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A couple of things I've noticed is the possibility of poor machine work to the heads, laying a straight edge across the tops of the valves shows them not to all be laying at the same height.

There is some light showing thru on some of the valve tips.

Not going for Nascar here but this hugs me cause from what I know this just isn't correct.

I don't see how this would have any affect on the issue I'm having but it's worth throwing out there.

I'd also like to comment on the play of the pedastals to the hardware holding them to the heads.

If I weren't careful about where I tightened them down than some of the rockers could be dangerously close to the valve spring in my opinion.

Lastly I've set the rockers on heads just to show how far off center the arms too valve tips.

I may be able to fix some of this a little by readjusting the pedastals to shaft location but I'm not sure how much room I have and still be able to drop the bolt thru the assy.

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:23 am

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1930 wrote:
A couple of things I've noticed is the possibility of poor machine work to the heads, laying a straight edge across the tops of the valves shows them not to all be laying at the same height.

There is some light showing thru on some of the valve tips.

Not going for Nascar here but this hugs me cause from what I know this just isn't correct.

I don't see how this would have any affect on the issue I'm having but it's worth throwing out there.

I'd also like to comment on the play of the pedastals to the hardware holding them to the heads.

If I weren't careful about where I tightened them down than some of the rockers could be dangerously close to the valve spring in my opinion.

Lastly I've set the rockers on heads just to show how far off center the arms too valve tips.

I may be able to fix some of this a little by readjusting the pedastals to shaft location but I'm not sure how much room I have and still be able to drop the bolt thru the assy.

Attachment: IMG_20181010_091148.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)

Last edited on Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:25 am by 1930

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:26 am

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:26 am

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:27 am

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1930 wrote:
1930 wrote:

A couple of things I've noticed is the possibility of poor machine work to the heads, laying a straight edge across the tops of the valves shows them not to all be laying at the same height.

There is some light showing thru on some of the valve tips.

Not going for Nascar here but this hugs me cause from what I know this just isn't correct.

I don't see how this would have any affect on the issue I'm having but it's worth throwing out there.

I'd also like to comment on the play of the pedastals to the hardware holding them to the heads.

If I weren't careful about where I tightened them down than some of the rockers could be dangerously close to the valve spring in my opinion.

Lastly I've set the rockers on heads just to show how far off center the arms too valve tips.

I may be able to fix some of this a little by readjusting the pedastals to shaft location but I'm not sure how much room I have and still be able to drop the bolt thru the assy.

Attachment: IMG_20181010_091126.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:28 am

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I don't see how to attach multiple pictures let alone any attachments options unless I quote something

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 09:48 am

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I called Clearwater cylinder head and they told me on a production head having a variance of a business cards height in tip length is entirely acceptable

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:04 am

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It actually looks pretty good in the pictures but the pictures do not tell much
You should not have to do ANY adjusting, you assemble each rail and then torque them down, there is no adjustment in this valvetrain (nor usually any adjusting to do on a hydraulic lifter valvetrain)

I am comparing your pics to pictures I have of a few 4.0 ohv I have torn down and built up.
Yellow springs go on passenger head, brown on drivers head. Do not mix match mounts, springs washers or hardware they stay where they were before disassembly
Did you keep everything in order?

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:41 am

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Oh sure, pushrods will be put back in same place. Let me snap a few more pics and post them

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:43 am

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I've read online that the hole in the shaft itself is elognated a bit to allow moving rocker arms slightly to left and right can take place if need be.

I don't know that too be fact

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:44 am

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1930 wrote:
I've read online that the hole in the shaft itself is elognated a bit to allow moving rocker arms slightly to left and right can take place if need be.

I don't know that too be fact

Attachment: IMG_20181010_104354.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:45 am

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Last edited on Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:45 am by 1930

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:46 am

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The two intakes on pass side head above are not on center

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:47 am

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There's one intake on pass. head that looks about the same.

I'm keeping everything separate and marked

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:50 am

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1930 wrote:
There's one intake on pass. head that looks about the same.

I'm keeping everything separate and marked

Better picture of the typical offset I'm talking about

Attachment: IMG_20181010_104830.jpg (Downloaded 28 times)

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 10:50 am

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1930 wrote:
There's one intake on pass. head that looks about the same.

I'm keeping everything separate and marked

Better picture of the typical offset I'm talking about

Attachment: IMG_20181010_104830.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 11:53 am

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Do you still have the stock rocker arms? Look at the tips you may find the little button that is machined into the end is not exactly centered on the valve tip

There is no way to move them over that I am aware of, IE it looks acceptable I do not think that is your noise

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 12:14 pm

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410customs wrote:
Do you still have the stock rocker arms? Look at the tips you may find the little button that is machined into the end is not exactly centered on the valve tip

There is no way to move them over that I am aware of, IE it looks acceptable I do not think that is your noise

I agree that it's prob not the noise but it's gotta play hell on the valvetrain in general
I agree that it's prob. not the noise but it's gotta play hell on the valvetrain in general

Last edited on Wed Oct 10th, 2018 12:15 pm by 1930

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 09:21 am

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I was thinking last night you also did exhaust manifolds, are you sure its not an exhaust tick?

from what you describe it sure does sound like you have one or more bad lifters. Lifters do not like water inside of them...this 4.0 needed head gaskets = water leaks?
Thoughts?

Last edited on Thu Oct 11th, 2018 09:22 am by 410customs

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 11:26 am

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410customs wrote:
I was thinking last night you also did exhaust manifolds, are you sure its not an exhaust tick?

from what you describe it sure does sound like you have one or more bad lifters. Lifters do not like water inside of them...this 4.0 needed head gaskets = water leaks?
Thoughts?
Not exhaust and I would say multiple lifters, obviously I changed the oil when I did the last set of head gaskets and it was black black.

Poor maitenmaint, I was told after the fact by a service tech here that the guy overheated it multiple times again IE just didn't give a .

I'm anxious to get it back together. Just waiting for the parts

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 11:52 am

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DId you straight edge the heads on the engine side of things? The block really should be checked for cracks and straighness also, otherwise you MIGHT still be dumping coolant into the combustion chambers or crankcase. Time will tell on that one

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Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:05 pm

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410customs wrote:
DId you straight edge the heads on the engine side of things? The block really should be checked for cracks and straighness also, otherwise you MIGHT still be dumping coolant into the combustion chambers or crankcase. Time will tell on that one
Got my NOS lifters in yesterday ( I was out of town ) and no original box like the picture showed in the e-bay add and there are some rust issues from sitting I guess.

This is the worst of it that I show, maybe I neednt worry so much about the rust on the body but the small bit on the roller has me concerned.

There is no other rust anywhere else on the lifters, no more on the rollers as you spin them and no more on the bodies.

What can you guys say?

I really need to get this together but of course I dont want to damage the cam.

I would have cleaned it with emory cloth if I would have seen it when I opened the package but I didnt see it and I asked my wife to just submerge them in oil.

Emory cloth would have helped alot. Not deep at all but its there.

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Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:05 pm

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1930 wrote:
410customs wrote:

DId you straight edge the heads on the engine side of things? The block really should be checked for cracks and straighness also, otherwise you MIGHT still be dumping coolant into the combustion chambers or crankcase. Time will tell on that one
Got my NOS lifters in yesterday ( I was out of town ) and no original box like the picture showed in the e-bay add and there are some rust issues from sitting I guess.

This is the worst of it that I show, maybe I neednt worry so much about the rust on the body but the small bit on the roller has me concerned.

There is no other rust anywhere else on the lifters, no more on the rollers as you spin them and no more on the bodies.

What can you guys say?

I really need to get this together but of course I dont want to damage the cam.

I would have cleaned it with emory cloth if I would have seen it when I opened the package but I didnt see it and I asked my wife to just submerge them in oil.

Emory cloth would have helped alot. Not deep at all but its there.

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Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:11 pm

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I hope you are on the right track and don't mean to sound like a downer but I really think it was another oiling issue and not the lifters.

I wouldn't use any less than 600 grit if you use emery however I believe scotchbrite would remove the rust and not scratch it as much as emery would. Buy a 3 pack of sponges for the kitchen, take one for the lifters and give the other 2 to which ever one of you washes the dishes.

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Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:29 pm

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JAMMAN wrote:
I hope you are on the right track and don't mean to sound like a downer but I really think it was another oiling issue and not the lifters.

I wouldn't use any less than 600 grit if you use emery however I believe scotchbrite would remove the rust and not scratch it as much as emery would. Buy a 3 pack of sponges for the kitchen, take one for the lifters and give the other 2 to which ever one of you washes the dishes.

What makes you think other oiling issues?

Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:29 pm by 1930

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