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How to replace the fuel pump       #: 2236
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sat Aug 22nd, 2020 06:33 pm
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Mike69

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This "how to" was again performed on my 2000 Ranger Extd Cab. It was average difficulty, if you have mechanical know how, hand tools, floor jack & jack stands you can do this. 
The tools I needed were,
1/4" drive ratchet,
1/4" drive extension,
1/4" drive 9/32 socket,
1/4" drive 1/4" socket,
3/8" drive ratchet,
3/8" drive extension,
3/8" drive torx bit #- T55,
rubber mallet,
1" wide piece of wood about 1 foot long, or a long straight blade screwdriver,
wheel chock,
new plastic fuel line retainer clips, & fuel line spring clip retainer remover tool.

1) After putting a wheel chock in front of one of the front tires I jacked up the rear of the Ranger & put 2 jack stands under the rear axle & set it on the stands.
2) I removed the 3 screws from the filler neck & pushed it out of the opening in the bed side, removed the 6 torx bolts that secure the bed to the frame.
3) Unplugged the harness back at the rear bumper that goes to the tail lights.
4) With a helper I lifted one side of the bed & then the other side, & my helper (wife) slide a 2x4 under the the bed on the frame rail. Then at the back of the bed I again lifted the bed & my helper slide a short length of 4x4 under the bed on top of the 2x4 so the bottom of the rear of the bed would be above the rear bumper. You could also use an engine hoist to lift the bed off the frame as I have done in the past.
5) With your helper slide the bed back far enough to access the fuel lines, electrical connection, & the fuel pump assembly retainer ring.
6) Two of the fuel lines have the plastic retainer clips, & the third one has the spring retainer. Remove the 3 fuel lines, the electrical connection, & the plastic retainer ring & remove the fuel pump assembly.
7) Unplug the fuel pump electrical connection, loosen both fuel pump hose clamps, & remove the screw on the clamp the holds the fuel pump to the assembly, remove the clamp & the fuel pump.
:NOTE: The replacement Bosch fuel pump has a different connector on the top of the fuel pump then the original Ford pump but they supply a adapter wire that plugs into the Bosch pump & the wiring on your assembly plugs into the adapter wire so there is no wiring that is needed to be done, it is a simple plug & play replacement.
8) Install the new filter screen on your new pump, install the new fuel pump hose on the new pump, install & tighten the 2 hose clamps & install the pump. Install the fuel pump retainer clamp & tighten the retainer clamp screw. 
9) Reinstall the fuel pump assembly back into the tank with a new tank seal & screw on the retainer ring being careful not to cross thread it.
10) Reinstall the 3 fuel lines, hook up the electrical connection, & check to see if it starts.
11) If all is OK push the bed back into place & remove the two 4x4's & the two 2x4's.
12) Reinstall the 6 torx bolts using anti-seize on the bolt threads & align the bed & tighten the torx bolts, reinstall the filler neck back into the hole in the bed side & install the 3 retainer screws, & install the gas cap & you are done.



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00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto
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 Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2020 09:47 am
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mhoward
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Nice write-up Mike!



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 Posted: Sun Aug 23rd, 2020 09:54 am
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very nice!
If you replace the entire in tank sender (the fuel level gauge and pressure regulator for 98+ dudes) it is a good idea to test the function of the level sender before you install the assembly into the tank, make sure when the float is at the bottom the gauge reads empty and when its at the top it reads full.
Also test your new fuel pump BEFORE you bolt the bed back down :)



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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 04:40 pm
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I wish I could've removed the bed over dropping the tank in my truck.

Being lifted, I was able to just crawl under, squeeze myself between exhaust and driveshaft to cut the fittings(I did not want to fuss with the fitting tool. And I was due for all new lines anyways).
I used a lift dirt bike stand to lower the tank into my lap. (After siphoning about 10 gallons out of my FULL TANK)

Smacked the crap out of the lock holding it in and replaced the whole pump. 

Be sure to also re-trip the inertia switch on the passenger side! Mine went "off" when I did the pump, so you have to press the red button to be flush. Or else the new pump will be useless. :)



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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 04:42 pm
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Interesting that changing the pump would kick out the fuel shutoff.  Nice bit of info to keep in mind... :-)



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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 08:34 pm
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It was 4 years back but I lifted the bed with my engine hoist and ratchet straps when I replaced the guts in the tank.  I wire brushed the frame and painted it with Rust-Oleum. Only surface rust but I probably saved the spare tire holder.  I also changed out the shocks and serviced the axle. I tried to do everything possible to the rear of truck while the bed was off. Shackles were good.  I even took measurements for a second fuel tank but did nothing with it.

I drove it for about a week while I was working on the frame. That 3.0 was burning the rear tires like I had a 427 wedged in up front. Interestingly I  went from 20 mpg to 24 mpg even doing the burnouts.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 02:15 am
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Tony, the previous times when I removed the bed from my Ranger I used my engine hoist, I was offering another alternative because not everyone has one.



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00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto
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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 08:52 am
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@Tony: Does the bed weigh that much?



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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 03:23 pm
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mhoward wrote:
@Tony: Does the bed weigh that much?
Mine weighed a lot more because I had the camper shell on at the time. No longer have that on there. (Thank god. Ugly thing)



____________________
"So Many Ideas. So Little Money."
"If You Ain't First, You're Last."
--
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2005 Ranger 2.3L 2WD XLT (My Baby)
2000 Explorer 5.0L 2WD Eddie Bauer (Donor)
2008 Yamaha YZ85(Toy)
2008 Honda CRF230L(My 2nd Toy)
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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 06:25 pm
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mhoward wrote:
@Tony: Does the bed weigh that much?
Not sure of the weight but my guess would be 325 plus or minus 50 pounds for the steppy. I was doing this by myself  and I removed the tailgate before I got started. This is also when I had those crappy Goodyear Wranglers. The 3.0 could turn them over about a half turn from a dead stop.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 08:59 pm
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I would venture to say the steppie is heavier.  The fiberglass sides would add up pretty quick.  I know the PowerDome hood is VERY heavy.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 09:03 pm
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It was on the engine lift and when I put it back on all it took was a little nudge to get it back into place.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2020 05:40 pm
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I get to do it again! With the key in the on position I can press the Schrader valve. I get a little squirt and it quickly drops to a trickle. The truck is at work.

Mike, thanks for the tool list. I will be breaking down my engine hoist to put it my wife's SUV along with the tools listed plus a few more. I will be doing the job in the parking lot at work this weekend. I will be out of town Thursday through Saturday.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2020 06:44 pm
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Well, that sucks.  Pray for dry weather... at least fall is here and it isn't so hot now.  Good luck to you, Tony!



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I ordered the "premium" assembly that had the little heart by it from RockAuto. It will be here Thursday. I did use a discount code 7BF1209F162E06 but I had to bump up the shipping as I can't wait 11 days. 

To top it off  I was informed by my sister  that her husband totaled the farm dually (I am in joint ownership with my sister  on the farm- not a good thing). He is an insurance salesman and had dropped the coverage back to save some $$ so the accident is not covered. He has been using it as a daily driver as it gets better fuel mileage than that POS 4x4 Tundra he has. The Tundra doesn't have the guts to pull the hay-wagon and the 1-ton dually was overkill but I got it at stupid good price back in 06.  I am scouring the used market for a F250 diesel. I really don't want the 6.2L gas or V-10 as the diesel will pay for the cost difference in 60 to 70K miles in the used market. The 05 dually had 258k on it and I was hoping it would last another 10 years.  There are a couple of 2 to 4 year old diesels with less than 30K miles in the $30k range within 100 miles, all of them XL's. I am planning to take over the hay shipments where the F250 will become my daily driver. The Ranger is probably going to have a For Sale sign on it soon. I really wish my sister would buy me out on the Farm.



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I don't know how your situation is, but with me it's "with family like this, who needs enemies".  I worked for my youngest sister and her husband when they had their own consulting business (actually, two different times/companies).  Neither time worked out very well...



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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With my BIL managing the farm we have made less than $3k profit per year over the last 6 years. When I managed it from 300 miles away it makes $15-28K  for each of us. My BIL is a great insurance sells man but gets taken at least once a year by some jerkwad who wants credit. When I am running it you can take your credit elsewhere as Cash is King. I have the Ranger because of giving a dairy a 60 day credit. I would have rather had the cash or a truck I could put to work in a roll other than a parts chaser or equipment mover. 

On Topic: I got the bed off during my  lunch brake. The last bolt I had to weld the Torx socket to the bolt as it had twisted the splines on the socket.  A cheater pipe on the 1/2" drive had that rusty POS screaming as I twisted it out. New bed bolts to the tune of $60ish are on the way as are two new shocks. I figure while I am there I might as well replace them as it is easy with the bed off. The  O'Reilly's  chineasium fuel pump had a lifetime warrantee but it only lasted about 40K miles. I don't want to do this again or pass this problem to somebody else.

With the bed off I am seriously considering and outdoor Harbor Freight paint-gun paint job in the driveway. My entire left side is pealing clear coat. I have peals on the hood. I have a 30' paint job as it looks like crap when you get close to it. I have never liked silver and I believe I could take a couple of shades darker and it would stand out. Things to think about.



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I had a co-worker back in the late 1980's that had a silver Oldsmobile.  If you remember, silver cars in that era peeled like crazy.  She took it to a body shop that agreed to sand and spray the car with Dove Gray and ignore the door jambs.  The car came back from the shop and looked amazing.  As paint colors go, Dove Gray (or any medium gray) is one of the least expensive paint colors you can buy and it is easy to spray because it isn't metallic and light enough to hide imperfections the backyard paint guy made have.



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I had an 84 Olds 88 2-door diesel. I bought it in 93 for $900. It had 99k miles, perfect leather seats, AM/FM/CB radio, and every other option available. It got 25mpg no matter how you drove it and it had a 35 gallon fuel tank. With the front seat in the rear most position I could be sitting in the rear seat and could not touch the front seat with my foot. It was silver and had pealed. I acquired 3 gallons of Imron candy red aircraft paint and I repainted it and I stopped at 8 coats. It was a beautiful paint job that looked 6" deep. When I blew the engine 3 years later one of my co-workers offered me $1500 for it. He put a Chevy crate engine in it after purging all of the diesel. He was still driving it in 2002 when I lost track of him.

Back on topic: New bed bolts and new shocks shipped yesterday. Fuel pump shipped this morning. All should arrive Thursday.  I leave for a 3 day fall vacation at noon on Thursday and I have asked my neighbor to put any packages that arrive in the bed that is sitting on saw-horses.

I have decided to paint the truck. It will be darker and I will do it in stages. I will prep the bed and paint it first, outside only. The roof and rear of the cab will get it next so I can mount the bed. I need to do some body work on the hood and passenger door. I believe the passenger door, front fender and hood have had some work before as they have worn faster and have some pealing paint. The clear coat is also almost non-existent. I will not be spraying a clear coat but using the all-in-one paint.



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Sounds like a plan, Tony!



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Tony, we want to see pics & info of what gun & paint you used.



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I second that!



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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2020 07:14 pm
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I will start a new thread next week.



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I am off work until next Tuesday. Fuel pump and bed bolts came in at 9:40 this morning. The hardest part was getting the fuel fill vent off. Last time I thought the retainer springs were the pull type and I broke that one. 
FYI On a 2004 the fuel line retainers are a PUSH to release
Last time I put a touch of RTV to hold the broken piece in place and it had hardened. I had to pry it out and trim away all remnants of the RTV. Even with that I got the old out and the new one installed in less than 20 minutes. Lesson from last time: use a BA hammer to remove/reinstall the retaining ring. Of course I splashed gas all over the place. I have about 2/3 full tank. I took it out for a spin and the 3.0L is much quicker without the bed.



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Ha!  BA Hammer.  Is that similar to a BF Hammer?   :-P



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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > How-To Section > How to replace the fuel pump

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