AC leak - General Technical Questions - Tech Section

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JAMMAN

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My AC works for 3 days when you charge it. So I put some of that UV dye in it. It looks like someone had it apart and everywhere there is an o-ring they didn't clean the surfaces or replace the o-ring. It is leaking around where the HP line connects to the condenser and on the fitting on the back of the pump. The other side of the condenser fitting looks good, I'm thinking someone put a pump in it and did a poor job.

My question is, what do I wash that crap off with? Does it come off with regular soap and water or do you need acetone or? PAG oil is just like oil right?

ALSO this thing seems to only take so much of a charge. The tag says 1.8 (less than 2 anyway) and at 85 degrees supposed to be about 45 PSI on the low and about 220 PSI on the high side. Well when I try to get 45 it goes back to about 38-40 and the high stays at about 210/220 but doesn't go above like a clogged orifice. Right now I have charged it close to 3 lbs, it is cold but the pressures aren't exactly "right". I'm wondering if the compressor might be lame?

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Posted: Sun Jul 21st, 2019 10:14 am

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Idahome

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so if they replaced a bad compressor and did a half wit job at that, and you have strange pressure readings and leaks....I bet your orifice tube is plugged with all the crap from the old compressor going bad

It maybe time to bite the bullet and replace the comp, dryer, and filter tube, O rings...do a full vacuum and re charge fresh
I clean the crap out of all the lines and the condenser, clean the HVAC box behind the blower motor, blow air through everything and install all the new parts.

I have been having good luck with the 4 seasons AC kits from Rock auto

I have been having terrible luck at keeping the ac going in these old fords though, our Excursion and our van (the family haulers) both have rear ac systems and what a PITA those are..... every year it seems a new leak = $$$$$$$ down the drain!! (and unhappy kids and wife, black excursion)

Last edited on Sun Jul 21st, 2019 10:15 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sun Jul 21st, 2019 03:13 pm

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JAMMAN

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That's a no brainer at 150 bucks. How hard is it to clean the box behind the fan? Does the evap get fuzzy and clogged like it does in a house unit? (especially the ones that don't see a need for a filter).

Thanks for the tip I think the hardest part is knocking the hoses apart with that tool that never does right. I have my fittings sprayed with brute blast already just in case.

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Posted: Mon Jul 22nd, 2019 11:50 am

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Idahome

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You need a different tool :) The AC lines should come apart rather easily, the big one can take some pulling but it should not be "stuck"

The most you will find in the HVAC box behind the fan is a buildup of leaves and pine needles, they gather in the lower corner...super easy to clean out with your hands and shop vac.

I put the 4 seasons kit in my 97 F350, AC works like NEW!!! the orrofice tube was so clogged I could not believe it was still working before... I mean CHUNKS of black crap.
We just did my stepsons 98 Explorer with the 4 seasons kit also, now his AC works like new.

After you pull 30n of vacuum and hold it for like 45 minutes to an hour, then measure the amount of charge oil you add and the amount of R134 you add based on the hood sticker and it should perform like a new truck.

Now if I could keep the R134 from leaking out of the rear of the van and excursion we would be in good shape! The rear ac systems are a PITA there are like 150' of aluminum lines with STEEL fittings and O rings...fix one, next year another one leaks. Rear AC sucks.....

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Posted: Mon Jul 22nd, 2019 02:22 pm

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JAMMAN

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I bet that excursion takes 3 times the 134A as a ranger!

We have one of those charging machines here that does the vacuum and measures the charge, oil and refrigerant. Makes it easier but you still have to know something to use it. I'm between knowing some things and knowing something so I'm close LOL.

What's funny is 2 years ago it seemed like somewhat of a mystery and the entire AC system is starting to make sense now.

Thanks for your help and clues :)

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Posted: Mon Jul 22nd, 2019 04:37 pm

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Idahome

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72 oz = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ down a hole

Im in the same boat, I used to just charge the systems with the auto parts store cans...well that's not helping, adding moisture to the system is nobueno
So I am learning and now have a vacuum pump and gauges, I still need to get a way to evacuate and contain the old refrigerant.

Time and money................time and money............

Last edited on Mon Jul 22nd, 2019 04:38 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Mon Jul 22nd, 2019 08:54 pm

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Tsquare
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last year when I was having problems it was the orifice tube that had deteriorated and was clogged . I had a neighbor with the recaim pump and all the special tools that got me back 100%.

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Posted: Sat Jul 27th, 2019 04:54 am

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Bird76Mojo
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410customs wrote:
72 oz = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ down a hole

Im in the same boat, I used to just charge the systems with the auto parts store cans...well that's not helping, adding moisture to the system is nobueno
So I am learning and now have a vacuum pump and gauges, I still need to get a way to evacuate and contain the old refrigerant.

Time and money................time and money............
How is moisture getting in to the system by using the small cans? That shouldn't be happening if you purge your hose properly beforehand..

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Posted: Sat Jul 27th, 2019 09:47 am

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Idahome

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no no no your missing something. We never used to use a vacuum pump. We would just assemble the truck and then start charging the system.. no vacuum = trapped air, trapped air = moisture.
Worked for a few years, until I learned more about AC systems and bought a vacuum pump and gauges.
Still more to learn! Always.....

Last edited on Sat Jul 27th, 2019 09:48 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Jul 27th, 2019 03:41 pm

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Bird76Mojo
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Oh, I know what you mean as far as learning. Right now I'm adding A/C to my 87 V8 swap truck and it never had A/C to begin with. It's quite the undertaking being half 87 Ranger and half 92 Thunderbird..

I'm documenting it as I go over at TheRangerStation.com

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Posted: Sat Jul 27th, 2019 06:45 pm

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JAMMAN

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You can provide a link to the thread if you want, we all have an account there also.

I constantly run in to assholes there so I don't post any more. As mild mannered as I am I have had threads deleted!

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Posted: Sat Jul 27th, 2019 08:26 pm

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Idahome

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What I did is weld up the 5.0 explorer lines to mate up to 4.0 gen I explorer ac parts and 88 BII on the dash side of things
There are sections of the explorer v8 lines that are steel, same is true for the gen I explorer / Ranger 4.0 stuff.
Where they are steel It is a very convenient spot to cut them, sleeve and weld up...making plug n play AC like factory. Its all v8 on the engine side, routing, high and low pressure switches and service ports, but uses 93 explorer condenser fittings up by the radiator and uses 88 bii style fittings at the canister and evap. weld them together = no custom lines needed.... junk yard solutions

Last edited on Sat Jul 27th, 2019 08:28 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Mon Jul 29th, 2019 11:27 am

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Bird76Mojo
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No welding is needed these days on those lines. They make crimp-on barrier hose ends that have compression fittings that slide over your cut tubing. They work very well and seal perfectly.

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Posted: Tue Jul 30th, 2019 10:29 am

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Idahome

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Really?
I have used some compression style aluminum fittings on the van to fix broken / rusty ac lines. They are pricey little dudes!! I think I paid $30 each? Show me the crimp on ones you are talking about please. Im hoping they are a bit cheaper. The van needs 2 more of those things like 3/4" inner diameter

Welding works good too, I always look for junk yard solutions first because:
1. I usually have the parts to build it
2. I usually have the parts to fix it

Last edited on Tue Jul 30th, 2019 10:30 am by 410customs

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Posted: Tue Jul 30th, 2019 11:15 pm

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Eddie Money
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Bird76Mojo wrote:
No welding is needed these days on those lines. They make crimp-on barrier hose ends that have compression fittings that slide over your cut tubing. They work very well and seal perfectly.
Are they like the shark bite fittings plumbers use?

Last edited on Tue Jul 30th, 2019 11:19 pm by Eddie Money

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Posted: Wed Jul 31st, 2019 05:11 pm

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Bird76Mojo
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You misread my comment. They're compression fittings that use the ferrule to compress down on to your metal tubing, and the other ends crimps on to your hose.

Any major online automotive A/C parts supplier will have them. I've seen them on several sites lately when building my custom A/C system on my 87 V8 swap truck.

I've also seen them in several online PDF supplier catalogs. 4Seasons, etc..

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Posted: Wed Jul 31st, 2019 08:26 pm

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JAMMAN

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Being that the high side can get to 300PSI it would have to be a compression fitting. Good stuff there Mojo.

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Posted: Sat Aug 3rd, 2019 04:03 am

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Bird76Mojo
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While I'm like anyone else, and I don't like compression fittings for certain areas, I've never heard anything bad about these fittings. I'm sure they work just fine on an old A/C system..

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