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Torsion bar adjuster bolts.       #: 2104
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2020 10:46 am
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Mike69

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 Anyone know where I can get new torsion bar adjuster bolts? I went to adjust mine yesterday & found the one on the drivers side the head of the bolt is rounded off a little so I can not make it tighter. I tried doing a google search & did not find any resource for them. Can I use a grade 8 bolt & is it difficult to replace or do I need a special too to replace it?.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2020 10:51 am
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410customs

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 you can get the bolts at any hardware store... I like to grind down the tip just like a factory bolt where it hits the t bar
Use grade 8 will be fine, coat threads with anti seize
The best way to remove it is to hold the tension on the torsion bar while you work on getting the old bolt out:
You need a torsion bar tool or 2 jaw puller or something to remove the tension from the t bar so you can remove your old bolt and the little metal holder/keeper

measure the height of your fender lip from the ground BEFORE you do the work and with the new bolt bring it back to the same measurement/height.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2020 11:24 am
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Mike69

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 Thanks Jamie.



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21 Bronco Sport Big Bend (Wife's DD)
05 F150 XLT Reg Cab, 2WD, 5.4L, Auto (My DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd 9" rear(Project)
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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2020 01:30 pm
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Mike69

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 Jamie, what are the dimensions of the torsion bar bolt?. I watched a video from A1 Auto parts & it shows the removing the adjuster bolt without removing the tension from the torsion bar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q61E29OSW7M
Can it be done like that or should the tension be removed from the bar to replace the adjuster bolt?.



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21 Bronco Sport Big Bend (Wife's DD)
05 F150 XLT Reg Cab, 2WD, 5.4L, Auto (My DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd 9" rear(Project)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)
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 Posted: Mon Apr 27th, 2020 10:19 am
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410customs

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 you can remove the bolt without holding the tension yes. 
It is much harder on the new bolt when it goes in though....at least jack the truck up on that side so the suspension is hanging when you put the new bolt in, it will go in alot easier



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 Posted: Mon Apr 27th, 2020 10:36 am
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JAMMAN

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 I don't do it that way, I jack the frame up on the side I'm going to work on till the wheel comes off the ground then I let it down till the wheel is just touching the ground. I imagine if you have them cranked this would not relieve all the tension but it works for one that is stock. I've had a couple that people have tried to twist with a 12 point box end wrench probably from Walmart hopelessly rounding the edges.

It's a M12 X 1.75 or was on the 2 I replaced. I would measure it though, I have found some strange things on 2000's LOL.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 27th, 2020 03:26 pm
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 I looked on line at Fastenal & found these with full thread that they are calling grade, class 10.9. What does that mean, will they be ok for the torsion bar adjuster bolts, or are they overkill?. Can I use grade 5 bolts or do I need grade 8 bolts?.
 https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/bolts/hex-cap-screws-and-hex-bolts/600003?categoryId=600003&level=3&query=M12x1.75x60mm&isExpanded=true&productFamilyId=25672



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21 Bronco Sport Big Bend (Wife's DD)
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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 09:22 am
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 10.9 is a little harder than grade 8.

there is no exact equivalent, the metric hardness in bolts has more "layers" if you will.

8.8
9.8
10.9
12.9

8.8 if I remember from using them is actually harder than a grade 5 not by a lot but it is. Or was when I was curious and had a rockwell tester in front of me.

10.9 is accepted around the shop as a grade 8 equivalent but if you grind a spot and throw them on the rockwell tester they are a small level up.

12.9 has its purposes but too brittle IMO for any application that might move a lot. Might as well just weld it.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 09:24 am
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 And no do not use a grade 5 bolt for anything ever unless you are fastening plexi glass or the original intent is to be able to drill through it.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 09:28 am
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JAMMAN

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 I stand corrected on a couple things, curiosity just lead me to a site that I used to frequent up till a couple weeks ago.
Found a chart, I guess there are more layers of metric hardness than I was aware.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/steel-bolts-metric-grades-d_1428.html



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 09:34 am
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410customs

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 also grade 5 hardware is used in alot of suspension parts, where the clamping force is needed but the bolt will "stretch" a bit before breaking where the grade 8 would "sheer" clean off. 

I like to use a hard bolt for the  torsion bar adjusters as the grade 5 can bend, so a grade 8 or metric 10.9 is perfect



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 02:52 pm
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Mike69

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 Thanks for the info guys, I will order them from Fastenall.



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21 Bronco Sport Big Bend (Wife's DD)
05 F150 XLT Reg Cab, 2WD, 5.4L, Auto (My DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd 9" rear(Project)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)
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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 09:54 am
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Mike69

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 I received the bolts so I can replace the stripped head on the one torsion bar adjuster bolt. I ordered 2 bolts so if I have a problem with the other one I have one to replace it with.



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21 Bronco Sport Big Bend (Wife's DD)
05 F150 XLT Reg Cab, 2WD, 5.4L, Auto (My DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd 9" rear(Project)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)
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