Crank, no start - 6 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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Mike69

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Yesterday I drove my Ranger home & parked it in the driveway, this morning I went to start it & it just cranks & will not start. I checked for fuel & hooked up a fuel pressure gauge & as soon as I turn on the key the gauge reads 65 lbs. Tonight when it starts getting dark I will test for spark. If it makes any difference when I crank the engine the tach does not register, I checked the inertia switch & it is not tripped, & when I turn on the key the CEL comes on & when I crank the engine the oil pressure gauge reads oil pressure. Any ideas?

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2020 03:04 pm

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JAMMAN

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Yup, one of 2 things. Crank position sensor which will throw a code you can read, or cam synch. Being it is a 4.0 pushrod probably the crank sensor. Easy to get to and easy to change.

pull codes first Mike.

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2020 03:11 pm

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Idahome

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With 65 psi rail pressure you can rule out the fuel pump fuse, relay and inertia switch.

2000 Ranger has pats and will disable the injectors, correct?
Does the theft light flash? or go out while cranking?

If theft light goes out then I agree it is most likely the crankshaft pos sensor. Many times you just need to unplug it and plug it back in 5-10 times to clean any moisture or corrosion from the electrical connectors

The other thing that has been happening to me more and more often is failed stock coil packs.....(usually they result in a misfire, not a total no start)
these parts are getting older

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2020 05:15 pm

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JAMMAN

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My 2000 with a 3.0 I know for sure simply will not crank when pats kicks in, I tested it by putting an expo lock cylinder in and turning the key. I think the light starts blinking quickly but literally nothing happens.

I have not tried my 2000 4.0 yet.

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2020 07:12 pm

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Mike69

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Thanks for the reply's guys, Jamie, when I replaced the cylinder heads 4 years ago I replaced the coil pack which was working fine at the time with a new one along with the spark plugs & the plug wires as maintenance. Today I swapped out the coil pack & still it will not start. I checked for any codes, & there are none. When I crank the engine the theft light is out. I pulled the drivers side front spark plug wire & put a spare spark plug in the wire & grounded the plug to the battery negitive terminal & cranked the engine, no spark.

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2020 09:41 pm

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JAMMAN

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I have a EVTM for that one Mike if you need any pages out of it I'll scan them and post it.

I can't see there being a no spark situation and no codes. That leaves Jamie's pats theory, but I know for sure a 2000 with a 3.0 won't even crank when pats kicks in maybe the 4.0 is different.

It takes like a minute to put a lock cylinder in and try it if you haven't figured it out by tomorrow I'll throw the lock cylinder in my 4.0 and try to crank it.

Do you by chance have another key you could try?

Does it sound the same as it normally does when it cranks? Maybe the timing chain let go if it sounds different. You could pull the cam synch sensor off and see if it spins when you crank.

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2020 11:14 am

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Idahome

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no spark and theft light goes out while cranking = cps
crank position sensor likely has failed
Or timing chain!!!! good point Jamman

Not very often does a timing CHAIN just flat out fail like that

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2020 11:55 am

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Mike69

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OK so I tried my 2nd key & same thing, crank no start. The engine doesn't sound like it is spinning fast like a broken timing chain. I ordered a Motorcraft crankshaft position sensor & I should have it by Tuesday. I was going to pull the cam position sensor like Jim recommended to see if the synchronizer is spinning while cranking the engine but I can not even see the synchronizer & sensor, it is probably buried behind the upper intake manifold.

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2020 12:24 pm

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Idahome

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yes in 2000 the cam sensor is behind the intake on the back of the engine
PITA to get to

If you have oil pressure chance is the cam sensor is at least spinning
A broken cam sensor is not supposed to cause a no start condition (no spark), but I am not so sure on these later models (98 and newer) there has been a time or two when I suspected it was the cause and did find a bad cam sensor

I have never had a OHV timing chain break

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2020 12:42 pm

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Mike69

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Thanks Jim & Jamie for the suggestions & what to check. Once I get the crankshaft position sensor I will install it & update then.

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2020 01:25 pm

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JAMMAN

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I've got one Mike but you already have one on the way. Jamie has a point about the oil pressure, if the chain busted you would not be getting oil pressure duh to me. Chain spins cam, cam spins synch, synch drives oil pump.

And I too have never seen a timing chain in a 4.0 or 3.0 totally break.

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2020 06:21 pm

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Idahome

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why don't you take the crank sensor off the 99 and see if it fixes the 00
should be the same part

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JAMMAN

Posted: Mon Mar 23rd, 2020 09:46 am

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JAMMAN

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2 bolts one clip. good plan.

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Posted: Mon Mar 23rd, 2020 03:34 pm

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Mike69

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Well I have never actually seen a timing chain break, usually the nylon teeth on the cam gear tear off.

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Posted: Mon Mar 23rd, 2020 04:58 pm

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Idahome

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no nylon gears on our engines metal on metal baby

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Posted: Mon Mar 23rd, 2020 06:42 pm

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JAMMAN

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Not on the 3.0 or the 4.0 but it was common in the 70's I believe a lot of GM V6 and V8's had nylon teeth from the factory but enough of a nub under to usually still limp you to the garage. Saw quite a few. I think it was for noise reduction? Not sure. It was a bad idea and it is gone now whew.

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Posted: Tue Mar 24th, 2020 04:27 pm

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Mike69

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Just wanted to give a great big shout out to Jamie & Jim for pointing me in the right direction. I removed the old crank sensor & it was tight to get it out, so I removed the fan & the fan shroud & now look at all the room I have, now I can see where the top bolt is for the sensor. Bolted in the new Ford sensor & hooked up the wiring & it started on the first crank. From start to finish it took me about 1 hour, not very hard at all. Here is a pic of the old sensor which when I tried to pull the wiring connector off it came apart. The actual sensor part pulled out of the plastic holder that bolted to the timing cover.

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Posted: Tue Mar 24th, 2020 04:48 pm

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Idahome

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Bingo!
At least it got you home and then failed! that is a sign of a keeper
My BII has only left me stranded from home 1 time in over 20 years and when my friends showed up to help is started and drove home......

These ignitions are so robust that they hardly ever fail and when they do it is usually very easy to sort out. crank sensor is mounted down low on the engine, exposed to road salt and grime, plus weather so they tend to fail more often then the other parts. No start with no spark, theft light goes out while cranking = next suspect = crank sensor

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Posted: Tue Mar 24th, 2020 05:08 pm

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JAMMAN

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Glad it is going Mike, even a couple days without a Ranger is too much.

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Posted: Tue Mar 24th, 2020 07:08 pm

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Mike69

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Thanks again guys.

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