3.0 1999 #6 Misfire - 6 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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3.0 1999 #6 Misfire #: 1326

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Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 04:37 pm

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TheArcticWolf1911
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I fired up my Ranger around noon and noticed it was shuddering and shaking. It's done this before but settles out rather quickly. While not normal, it wasn't causing any issues beyond the first 30 seconds of runtime so I never thought much of it. Well this time it threw a code, P0306. No other codes were thrown. I reset it and plan to see if it comes back. In the meantime, I'd like to hear if there are any common issues that typically work out to be the problem, (IE, if injectors are known to be faulty or the like). I did notice that during my drive it wasn't as powerful as it usually is. Other than that, no odd idle or shaking after the inital take off.

Also, does anyone have a cylinder location diagram? I honestly don't know which cylinder is truly number six. I think it's the driver's side, closest to the firewall.

EDIT: My plugs and wires were replaced within the last year, so I doubt it's those. Motorcraft brand wires and plugs. Air and fuel filter are still good, I'm sure. As far as I'm aware it still has the original fuel pump.

Last edited on Wed Oct 10th, 2018 05:09 pm by TheArcticWolf1911

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 12:56 am

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Eddie Money
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Was just covered here.

https://ford-rangers.com/view_topic.php?id=1311&forum_id=62&jump_to=18112#p18112

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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2018 01:02 am

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TheArcticWolf1911
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I was afraid of that. I don't think there's any way to get to the right side of the engine's injectors without taking the intake off. Not that it's a big deal if you're replacing it, but for wanting to test some stuff, that's a lot to chew

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Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 03:29 pm

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sheltonfilms
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Load up Forscan and pull the following PID:

Fuel System Status:
Number of Misfires
STFT1
STFT2
LTFT1
LTFT2

Using STFT1 and LTFT1 as baselines to help you out, look at STFT2 and LTFT2 (when Fuel system status is in closed loop). This should help you figure if its fuel related.

Last edited on Thu Nov 8th, 2018 03:29 pm by sheltonfilms

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Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 06:32 pm

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P0306 is a random misfire code for #6 cylinder. The code could be anything from a bad plug to a burnt valve. First thing I would do is pull the plug and plug wire. This would be a good time to check the compression. If the compression and plug and wire check out ok swap the plug and wire with a different cylinder to see if the problem moves on the engine. If the misfire moves it will come up with another code. Example if you move parts from 6 to 5 and the code comes back it be P0305. Then at that point change plugs and wires. If the problem stays at 6 then check injectors. You can do the same with the injectors as the plugs and wires. If that checks out then then you could have an internal problem bad rings bad piston cracked head burnt valve. Also check the coil pack. Unlikely that it's bad but you never know

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Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 11:27 pm

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I normally don't made and jump threads, but unfortunately I haven't had the misfire happen again except for just recently. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it gets worse steadily. Makes it difficult to impossible to diagnose the problem when there is no problem at that point.

I did mention it to a friend of mine (who builds engines for a hobby), and he suggested possibly an injector that sticks when it's cold, based on my description.

"It only does it when it hasn't run for a few days, but not consistently so."

Unfortunately, #6 is completely inaccessible due to the intake, so I'd have to take it off. My father suggested the intake gasket having a minor hole in it that closes up when the engine heats up, thus expanding and squishing the gasket enough so that it seals back up.

I'm thinking about getting a new intake gasket, taking out the injector and swapping it with cylinder #1, which is the easiest to get to and doesn't (seem to) require removing anything else to get to it. Since I have to take the intake off anyway, and the gasket is the original, I figure it makes sense to do.

My thought process being, if the problem goes away and never comes back, it was likely the gasket. If the problem moves to #1, then I know the injector is bad, but yet I don't have to pull off that intake again.

Does this seem like a bad idea, swapping injectors? Is it a bad idea to only replace one injector, if it does turn out to be going bad? I'd like to replace all six, but at $40 a whack (rockauto), I'd like to also save some money. One of those cases where you spend enough to fix it right, but not overspend unnecessarily. Now if they were $20, then I might.

Any opinions on junkyard injectors?

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 06:43 am

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Replace with new. Swapping the parts is a good thing. Especially in your situation of not know what part is bad and it also eliminates any internal problems as well as electrical. Providing the problem moves when you switch cylinders. I would also swap out the plug and wire with a different cylinder while you are in there. Helps verify that the engine and valve train is not the issue

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 12:09 pm

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If its doing it when it sits, its also the possibility that you're getting coolant in the cylinder from a leaking intake or head gasket. Let it sit a few days and pull the plug before you run it. Or pull the plug and look after you run it. I had this issue and the one plug misfiring was evident there was an issue.

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Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 05:10 pm

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One of the thoughts that crossed my mind was it seemed like something was going into the cylinder while it sat, but I had dismissed it.

I've done the 'glove test' a couple times and have not gotten anything to be suspicious of.

I am suspicious of one behavior I've noticed the truck exhibiting after it's shut off. While it's cooling, I notice air bubbles going into the overflow tank from the radiator. I don't know if this is normal or not, but I figured it was worth sharing.

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Posted: Sun Dec 16th, 2018 07:54 pm

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TheArcticWolf1911
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Alright, I got a new gasket and I went to put it on, but I wound up finding this.... I'm actually a touch embarrassed that I somehow missed this. As soon as I found this I stopped disassembly, going no further.

Arguably the worst of the three just so happens to be for cyl #6. This is without any cleaning, just so it's known.

That being said, I didn't bother cleaning it. I bought a new one instead from the local auto parts store, only to be given quite a surprise. There are two coil pack types, one with the connector vertically placed, and the other horizontally. There IS a difference! The horizontal pack is for 4.0 engines. It's strange, because according to what I could find, the firing order is identical between the 4.0 and 3.0 engines, but the two do not directly interchange. The corner wires need to be swapped end for end to make the 4.0 coil run the 3.0 engine. That's what I wound up doing. Runs a lot better now!

Only time will tell if this fixes the issue. Certainly isn't *helping* the issue. I did not take the intake off after having seen the state of the contacts. If the coil pack doesn't fix the issue, I'll go back ind and dig deeper.

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Posted: Sun Dec 16th, 2018 09:58 pm

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No picture?

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Posted: Mon Dec 17th, 2018 12:04 pm

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TheArcticWolf1911
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Yep, I forgot the link. No idea where my mind has been at lately....

Last edited on Mon Dec 17th, 2018 12:04 pm by TheArcticWolf1911

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Posted: Mon Dec 17th, 2018 09:51 pm

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Eddie Money
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JAMMAN started a thread on the coil differences here. Since you have a personal experience you should add your info too.
https://ford-rangers.com/forum54/1335.html

Last edited on Mon Dec 17th, 2018 09:54 pm by Eddie Money

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