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No Fire Issue #: 2708

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Posted: Sat Sep 7th, 2024 09:59 pm

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RangerNed
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Good afternoon! Currently I have a no spark issue on my 1994 4.0 V6. Had the truck up on ramps last weekend and it would not start. Stuck it out in the street for the day, came home several hours later at night, tried it and it started. Changed the fuel filter the on Thursday after work (up on ramps), no problem and it started. Did some other work while I was under the truck and no start. The crank position sensor is about 4 years, but since this is not a daily driver I do not beleive the sensor is bad. Took it off and cleaned it up anyways. Still no fire. Pulled a plug to check for spark and when my wife turned it over first, no fire. The second crank, I had fire. Put the plug back in and tried a third time. Nothing. What else do you suppose I can check out? Thanks in advance!!

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1994 Ford Ranger Extended Cab XLT
2WD Automatic 4.0 V6 OHV
MODS: LED Dashlights, Wired for OHC (don't have the guts to cut the headliner), Lighted Visors, Auto-Dim/Mirror, Auto Headlights, other than that it's pretty much stock

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Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2024 06:19 pm

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JAMMAN

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Welcome back!

You have 2 steps to lead you to more steps.

You have to determine "Does it have spark" and "Is it getting fuel". Both can be intermittent, easier to resolve something when it is out for good!

Your vehicle is fuel injected, borrow a gauge and attach it to the schrader valve. Even if I spelled it wrong, it is there.

Turn key to on position.. see if you get pressure. If you do, try to start it. If it starts and pressure stays consistent revving it up a few times you simply have to wait till it doesn't start to diagnose it!

If it has pressure, cranks and does not start that still doesn't mean you don't have spark.. you have to check it. They make all kinds of cheap gadgets to connect between the wire and the spark plug!

IF fuel pressure AND good spark, you need to see if the fuel injectors are firing. This is the worst case and hardest to fix IMO.

If fuel pressure AND no spark it could be a host of things including crank sensor like you mentioned or a loose wire or a bad coil or.... start there.

If no fuel pressure check the fuse and wiring going to the pump. Probably a relay also I don't have experience with a 94 fuel system. I do know on a 2001 the fuse is too big and if the fuel pump is shorted it will burn the contacts on a relay before blowing a fuse! Consecutive relays. You can bypass the relay, if the wire starts smoking you probably have pump problems. Don't ask me how I know LOL.

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01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2024 08:56 pm

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RangerNed
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Thank you, Jamman. I do have plenty of pressure (checked with the Schrader valave). The plugs are wet when I pull them out. I can hear the fuel pump. I understand that from reading the interwebs that the ICM is kind of bullet proof (it is original at 30 years old). Is there a way to check it or check the best way to check the coil? Thanks!

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Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2024 10:08 pm

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chris

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Hi - just my pennyworth (or should that be a cent?) - I am assuming that the coil pack is supplied with 12v from the ignition switch and the ECU fires the plugs on the earth side, if so check out the ignition switch and the power line connectors to the coil pack - is there 12v on the pack with the key in the start position?

Feel free to ignore if the ranger is wired up differently, all my expertise is on UK cars & trucks.

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Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2024 11:56 pm

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RangerNed
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Thanks, Chris! I will check on Monday after work. For what its worth , the coil pack is only about 4 years old as well. The truck isn't a daily driver so there aren't many miles/hours on the new parts.

I had to look up to see where your city was at. You must have some gorgeous scenery there!

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Posted: Mon Sep 9th, 2024 06:48 am

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chris

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Not so concerned about the units - more about the connections and switch contacts that corrode through little use. I run classic cars and the electrical switches are a pain - usually flicking them on and off a few times cleans up the contacts.

I would start at the coil pack, pull the LT plug and check the wiring diagram / pinouts on the plug to make sure the voltages are OK or low / intermitant.

As for scenery, it is typically estuarial here - flat and featureless! Fortunately we live on the northern edge of the city and are just minutes walk from a country park.

The black dot is where we are - pic taken on one of my many flights down to Italy where my horse is and the scenery is fantastic!

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Posted: Mon Sep 9th, 2024 09:59 pm

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RangerNed
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Nice pic! Ocean views are still pretty cool! I am just slightly southwest of Detroit. We are a little flatish ourselves.

I checked the coil pack per some video I saw on line wiyth my multi-meter. According to the video my readings were normal so it does not look like a bad coil pack. I have the CPK sensor and the ICM (EDIS-6 module) left. As I wrote above, I do not think the CPK sensor would be bad as I do not have a lot of miles/hours on it, but who knows. The ICM is original to the truck and I can simply buy a new one, but I want to know what isn't doing what it is supposed to!! I am busy with other things for the rest of the evening, so after work tomorrow!!

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Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2024 01:02 am

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RangerNed
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Well. We can file this one under any of the following: live and learn, operator error or doh! One of the thimgs I did last week while under the truck was to replace the CPK sensor plug as the wire had been found to be brittle, fried, etc. (this was a few years back). Who knew that the wires (2 of them) needed to be spliced in correctly! I paid no attention when I clipped off the old plug as to its orientation to the sensor. Yep. It made a difference. That caused my "No Fire" issue. I pulled the plug off, attached some alligator leads to the sensor, and then flipped/switched the leads to the opposite position in the plug. Fired right up.

On the plus side, everything checked out good in the ignition system and no money spent!!!! Good thing all I have is time! Doh!!!

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