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1993 4.0l ohv running like crap       #: 2557
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Fri Jul 1st, 2022 07:36 am
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Firemanst13
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I recently put a new long block in my 1993 Ford Ranger XLT 2wd 4.0 l V6. when I first put it all together and tried to start it for the first time it fired right up, no hesitation or anything. Still today is starts right up but runs like you got 3 spark plug wires off. It jerks, it has no power, I might go 100 miles on a half of a tank or gas. I have replaced everything, plugs, wires, core, MAP sensor and so on, if you have a question on something just ask, I can recall all of them. New fuel injectors also. No smoke coming from tail pipe. I bought a OBD1 checker, and I am getting codes 172 and that seems to mean it is running lean, and code 177 which is running rich. I am at a loss to what to do to it, I have checked for vacuum leaks by pulling the hoses and checking for any holes, tears, or brittle hoses, and then I took Carb cleaner while it was running and sprayed it in every nook and cranny I could find, all the hose ends, the length of the hose and around every gasket I could find and reach, and nothing. I can usually find the problem on stuff, but this thing is whooping my behind, nothing I do makes it worse or better. I am just ready to get it running correctly. Please any advice ideas, you know exactly what my problem is just any help will be greatly apricated. I just want to thank everyone who takes the time to read this. Please help I did find out that the 02 sensors were plugged in wrong, the left on right and vice versa. It ran wonderful for a day and a half and started doing the exact same thing but now the check engine light does not come on at all.  I have had gas come out of the tank when it is filled and I tightened the fuel hose going into the tank, but I still smell gas, is it possible that the new fuel pump/ sending unit could be letting air in and fumes out causing this rough running?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 1st, 2022 05:54 pm
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Tsquare
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Welcome to Ford-Rangers.com! I am running the 3.0 L engine and my experience with the 4.0 is limited. 

What do the spark plugs look like? Are you getting spark to all of the cylinders? My first thought is the ignition but I am not familiar with what ignition is on a 93.

OHV? If memory serves me the fuel rail should have about 35psi.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 2nd, 2022 01:09 am
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Firemanst13
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The plugs look perfect, getting really strong sparks on every one of them, fuel pressure is also fine, I am lost, I have never worked on anything for so long and not did it any good what so ever.

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 Posted: Sat Jul 2nd, 2022 01:31 pm
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JAMMAN

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Welcome!

Your fuel mileage is crap, it is running like crap, you have conflicting codes....

Did this happen all of the sudden?

My first thought was intake bolts, but your carb cleaner test would have caught that. It isn't clogged injectors or fuel pressure because to waste that much gas it has to be getting that much.

Have you tried the MAF sensor, take it off and clean the crap out of it.

Else I'm leaning toward wiring problems (not plug wires but the wires going to sensors and the ecu) or the ECU itself. May have taken on moisture rotting a couple components and get confused.

I'd look at it, possibly go to a junk yard and yank a computer from a similar 4.0 OBD1 vehicle (make sure the transmission matches, auto or manual).

Might want to grab a maf sensor too. Those things if they go bad or get too crudded up changes the whole attitude of the engine.

Keep at it, sounds like you have some experience at diagnosing stuff so you have to step slightly outside the box.

The timing chain on those are usually rock solid but a timing chain that slips a tooth would exhibit most of those symptoms. Not quite sure how one would check that easily. Do the easy stuff first!



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 Posted: Sat Jul 2nd, 2022 05:00 pm
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Firemanst13
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I have completely replaced the MAF sensor with a new one. I put the long block in, and it started on the very first try, but was doing the jerking, someone told me with the codes I had that my 02 sensors were plugged in backwards. I switch those and it started purring like a kitten, power, great gas mileage, ran like this for 1 and a half days and started the jerking again. Problem now is the check engine light is not coming on, so I don't get any codes except everything passes. I did check the ECU that was in it when I got the truck and I opened it up and it had a bad place on the board, "discoloration" so I bought a new remanufactured one. I just don't understand how it went from running like a sewing machine and the just start running like crap again when I did nothing. I have replaced most all the parts with new ones. I am going today to get a new radiator because the current one has a small leak, or drip, not running hot at all, runs cooler that I thought it would, and see if that helps. I am at the point now I am just trying stuff that may or may not work, mostly not working.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2022 02:00 pm
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JAMMAN

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Outside the box now.... not saying any of these in particular are your truck just examples of the most unusual problems I have run in to...

1. Had one that I tried everything on and it sat for over 6 months because it was unpredictable and would quit altogether for no reason. After tearing about every wire out of it I found it would stall when I shook the plug going into the cam synch (cam position sensor). Crimped another one in there using free parts I already had, still runs great. Spent plenty of money.

2. Had one that blew an exhaust gasket and fried a plug wire. Ended up being a clogged cat on that bank.

3. Had a case (non ranger) where I swore the cats were plugged. When you loosened the pipe before the cats it was loud but would run. Replaced the cats. SAME PROBLEM. Looked at the old cat, rear one was empty. It was in the muffler! So it would run good, as the cat fragments gathered around one of the baffles it would start choking it. Hitting a bump or turning the car off for a while would make it run well for a while.


I'm still leaning toward a pinched wire somewhere on yours or one burned by placement close to the exhaust OR a bad connection. Start it cold, before it gets hot start shaking connectors and wire bundles see if something changes the attitude. Putting an engine in (long block in your case) anything can happen.

OH do you have a reliable ground wire between the engine and chassis? Those braided one get nasty corroded and may look like they are OK but can have resistance.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2022 03:08 pm
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Firemanst13
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OK, I do have the braided ground wire, it looked fine when I reinstalled it, so guess it would not hurt to make a beefer one to try. I have played with the wiring harness, shaking, pulling, poking, without getting my hand caught in something spinning. Is the cam positioning sensor the piece that is next to the harmonic balancer? I have not replaced that one and I don't have an extra one. I did that trick you said about disconnecting the cats and all it did was make it loud, no improvement in running. I have also cleaned all my connectors when I had it apart and when I reinstalled them used dialectic grease on all of them., I always do this with any wiring. I did replace the radiator yesterday and it took care of my drip, can't figure out what was wrong with the one that was in it, but the radiator cap would never get tight, new radiator half turn and it don't budge, but still no improvement in running. I will change that ground strap and shake the wires and all to see if I missed something. As far as tearing it back down and doing it again, way ahead of you, did that thinking I didn't get something tight enough or just something silly and didn't find anything and ran the exact same afterwards. I kind of figure it is something really simple and out in the open and I am just missing it. Thank you for helping me out

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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2022 08:45 pm
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JAMMAN

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Dude if you lived closer I'd hire you!

I really hope you can figure it out, I'm all out of ideas for the moment but if I think of anything else I'll chime back in.

The crank sensor is in the area you described but if it were bad it would surely throw a code. Wait I'm not sure, I know it is on 98 thru 2000 4.0 and every 3.0 I have ever seen, not sure if a 93 has one.

Please come back if you figure it out and let us know what the issue was. It could save countless older rangers!



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01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2022 09:42 pm
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Firemanst13
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I am not sure if I am going to keep trying, this is the first time I have ever worked on something and couldn't at least make it a little better. All my friends ask me to work on all their stuff already but if they are a true friend I don't charge them anything, it's just that I don't have any friends that work on cars or Fords, that I can ask for help.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2022 11:41 pm
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Have you removed the gas cap while it is running like crap?



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 Posted: Mon Jul 4th, 2022 01:04 am
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Firemanst13
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Yes sir, tried that to, even went bought a new one to make sure it is sealing. The old one was not sealing so when I turned truck off all my fuel pressure would drop to zero, now it stays up for a while

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 Posted: Sun Jul 10th, 2022 10:13 pm
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What do yall think my 1993 Ford Ranger XLT 2 wd 4.0l v6 with a brand-new long block, every part on the engine is brand new, new fuel pump/sending unit all new lights, power everything works as it should replace with all new parts, completely rebuilt 5 speed transmission, need tires, and someone to get the engine running smooth is worth? Fires up every time, just has a really bad jerk to the engine and no power and jerks harder under any kind of load.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 22nd, 2022 02:44 pm
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die electric grease DOES NOT CONDUCT ELECTRICITY
it is used to keep moisture out of the connectors, but NOT on the actual wiring pins
Check your firing order, plug wires. I know this sounds elementary, but the OHV wires are crossed so often we have to check

You must start to rule things out.
You say it has a "jerk" to it which gets worse under load
This sounds like a misfire, it is there at idle and gets worse when put under load
Check fuel pressure
check firing order
Clean mas air flow sensor
check all fuses
watch the engine running in the dark, any blue arcing from plug wires?


The check engine light should come on when you first turn the key
if it does not then it needs a new bulb in the dash



Having a lean code followed by a rich code could have been your 02 sensor wires being crossed? This seems really interesting to me because the harness is done in such a way that crossing them would be very difficult. You need to make sure the 02 sensors are plugged in properly and in the correct location
If the 02 sensors are wired properly AND you get a lean code and a rich code, usually this is a fuel pressure issue (fuel pump, strainer, filter, regulator) check fuel pressure at the rail, check it cold, then check it when warm

Using die electric grease on the wiring pins will cause intermittent connections = problems



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