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Brake question - No brakes after acceleration.       #: 2318
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Tue Feb 2nd, 2021 03:07 am
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aroundincircles
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Ok, so this is a recent development... I don't drive my Truck very much but did a big trip recently, and I noticed that if I had to accelerate hard, the brake hard, or if I had been cruising at higher speeds (like 75), and have to hit the brakes suddenly, then I have like 0 brakes, and I have to slam them onto the floor. if I pump it, I get them back. It doesn't seem to do this if I'm cruising at city speeds, or doing a lot more start stop kind of driving (neighborhoods). not sure where to start looking for this.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 2nd, 2021 11:42 am
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Is there no pedal?  Pedal all the way to the floor with no effect?  Or is there pedal, but no effect?  I am wondering if it is the last one, and there is a leak in the vacuum booster?

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 Posted: Wed Feb 3rd, 2021 02:49 am
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aroundincircles
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Pedal, but no effect.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 3rd, 2021 03:25 am
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I have seen this believe it or not. It wasn't a ranger, and I only think I figured it out.

It would only happen at sustained rapid acceleration, between 80 and 100MPH. I had it to 130 once on the highway.

It was after I re routed the exhaust. It had side pipes, when one fell off I put 2 glass packs on and pointed them to the side. Then the brake problem happened.

My initial thought was the brake fluid was getting heated up by the exhaust routing, one of the outlets was by a brake line on the left. You think I'm dumb now, you didn't know me as a kid.

Accelerating to high speeds would result in the brake pedal going to the floor on the first hit with little or no effect.

My theory later was my rotors were warped, my drums were warped, and at high speeds the warped rotors would spread the pads apart as far as they would go (this is back in the day when you had rotors turned. Several times. When they were smaller than the limit, you found a place that would turn them anyway).

Same on the drums, it would shake the rear cylinders in to the max, coupled with worn shoes / no rear adjusters, drums turned several times there was more travel on the 6 pistons than could be filled by one pump of the master cylinder. Second pump you could feel resistance.

I didn't prove either of these but the second theory seemed more likely.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 3rd, 2021 05:04 pm
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Huh... That could be the case, I do have a slight warp in my rotors. I needed new pads, but the rotors looked new still, so I just sapped out pads, and rotors warped almost immediately.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 4th, 2021 12:24 am
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Just a guess, Ceramic pads?

What you described in the first post is what happened with my 74 Stingray. The seals were leaking brake fluid into the booster. It took a new booster and me rebuilding the master cylinder to get it straitened out.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 4th, 2021 05:10 am
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Tsquare wrote:
Just a guess, Ceramic pads?

What you described in the first post is what happened with my 74 Stingray. The seals were leaking brake fluid into the booster. It took a new booster and me rebuilding the master cylinder to get it straitened out.

It was these ones:
https://amzn.to/36Gw05w
Bosch BSD652 SevereDuty  They say they are Semi Metallic, I don't see any mention of ceramic. My last pads lasted like... 7k miles, off roading with larger tires really killed them pretty quick. was hoping for something that would last longer, and have less fade off road. I think the previous ones were duralasts Max or gold, what ever the top of the line autozone brakes were at the time I did them.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 4th, 2021 11:48 am
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aroundincircles wrote:
Huh... That could be the case, I do have a slight warp in my rotors. I needed new pads, but the rotors looked new still, so I just sapped out pads, and rotors warped almost immediately.
I'm thinking there is no vacuum in the reservoir.  Vacuum leak somewhere?  Maybe the res itself?  Vacuum assisted brakes with no vacuum assist will feel like that.

FYI - Rarely are rotors actually warped.  Think of the heat that would take.  Usually it is uneven pad material transferred to the rotor.  And as far as I know, you can still get rotors turned.

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 Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2021 12:34 am
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Tsquare wrote:

What you described in the first post is what happened with my 74 Stingray. The seals were leaking brake fluid into the booster. It took a new booster and me rebuilding the master cylinder to get it straitened out.


What Tsquare mentioned about the master cylinder leaking into the brake booster happened on a 68 Mustang GT I had back in the 80's where the rear seal in the master cylinder starts to leak & the brake fluid leaks into the brake booster & if left long enough could damage the booster diaphragm. The only way to find it is to pull the master cylinder & check the rear seal in the back of the master cylinder for any sign of a leak because there will be no evidence of a leak otherwise.



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