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2000 v8 swap       #: 2187
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 10:24 am
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JAMMAN

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Mike69 and myself both have 2000's we have worked on.

Neither of ours had a dimmer wire in the harness under the dash going to the cruise control pods. So no cruise control lights until we hacked one in. Wire was there from the wheel to the harness but no wire at the harness.

I have another 2000 that has the wire.

My extended cab has HVAC controls that have T5 bulbs and one of the short cabs has the T10's.

So I think it was more like "what crate was delivered to us" on Monday at the assembly line.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 12:28 pm
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Hahahaaaa.  Yeah man. That pretty much sums it up.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 01:30 pm
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Another ordeal.. 
I ordered 6.80 pushrods.. get them in finally.  I go to set them in the engine and I thought..WAIT!! BETTER MEASURE THEM. 

Sure enough..glad I did!! Whats yalls opinion on this... none are 6.80!!

Last edited on Thu Sep 10th, 2020 07:36 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2020 10:57 pm
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one thousands and ten thousands of an inch will not matter in the valve train............... 0.016 is not enough to worry about IMO
Hydraulically pumped up lifters and valve springs are forgiving. You should measure the stock stuff....lol see how close they are to each other and how close they are to 1:6 actual rocker ratio (not that close!)



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 Posted: Fri Sep 11th, 2020 09:48 pm
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New set came in... they are not as bad as the first set.. 6.809-6.811
I mean what happened to quality control in this world.  Oh well.. time to get this thing together!



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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2020 02:02 pm
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quality control stopped at ten thousands of an inch LOL 
Speaking of quality control, the old Sears in town (closed earlier this year) is not becoming a Harbor Freight! Best news ever. Old HF was 50 miles from me, new one is 9 miles
Life is good



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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2020 10:34 pm
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So..My custom Intake cover plate came in... tried the polish version, then the painted letters..then crinkle paint the letters and vht gloss black the plate..

then I have the "Ranger 5.0L"









Last edited on Sat Sep 12th, 2020 10:35 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2020 08:58 pm
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Not much to.report on yet.. waitining on lifters.. speaking of..
Has anyone heard or know if the ford racing lifters are shorter than the oem explorer lifters?? I read that somewhere... before I torqued the heads on I made sure I could get all the lifters in the holes.. Thats a go!

  I got off work a little early.. went ro the junkyard, or as I call it my sanctuary..lol

 Got a couple plugs (ac stuff)and FINALLY  got one with the 3 wires that everyone talks about..so I snatched it too..
 I also cut the wiring loom off to see exactly what is going on. I need to see stuff to understand it.. just how I am on wiring. Now, I have a complete understanding of whats going on. Plus James has helped me TREMENDOUSLY!!  Thank you sir for not cussing me out..☕👍






 By the way.. anyone needs any stuff from the yard, small stuff that can be mailed..  let me know.. I sometimes go out there when I have time just to look at stuff.  Take stuff apart to see how it goes.. fun for me and I learn at the same time. This particular yard I go to has quit a bit of explorers and rangers.

Last edited on Mon Sep 14th, 2020 08:59 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2020 12:48 pm
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you are welcome!! 
That plug is interesting, 3 wires, one starter two ac clutch........nice and simple!
I love junk yards



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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2020 01:02 pm
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So my plans is to make two plugs...
 This one to the starter and ac clutch..

 Another for the  switch by the radiator.. should make it very simple plug and play. 

That way when I pull the engine out later for the 331,  I can just unplug the two plugs.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2020 12:06 am
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Ok... so here we go.... made the main plug for the ac/starter..
 The two wire I took out were green/white and black.. they went to the oil pan  for the sensor for low oil light..



 I think this will work how I have this now..please correct me if I'm wrong...









I still need to find some kind of two  prong or small plug for the original ranger high/low pressure witch ( the one by the radiator)






 This pic is the  two wires in the plug, is it to the ac compressor..so..this has to be right?

Last edited on Wed Sep 16th, 2020 12:12 am by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2020 01:03 pm
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yes it is correct grey/white is compressor clutch feed, black with white is the ground
The switch by the radiator is the high pressure side. The low pressure side is over by the heater blower fan
You need a plug for the low pressure switch, you should have one in your 5.0 / 4.0 wiring stuff??



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2020 02:58 pm
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Yes James... My 3.0 still has the plug connected..can I keep as it or do I tap into the wiring in my post above and ryn new wires?



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2020 04:37 pm
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You can use your existing plug!



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2020 10:41 pm
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Thank ya sir.. appreciate all the help on this freakin wiring..  finally done. Lol



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 Posted: Fri Sep 18th, 2020 11:39 pm
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So.. finally.. the wiring is compete.  Bought a two wire connector from O'Reilly's..  was going to go to the junkyard  to find one out of something, but I have to work Saturday.  Think it was only like 5 bucks anyway




 Using the ranger chassis side factory low pressure switch wires,(red/yellow and black/white)   I simplu soldered the new two prong plug on..and on the low pressure switch. Basically it has it on little 2 wire  harness.

 My 30lb Ev6 4 hole  injectors came in today. Should work out great.  I might could have gotten away with 24 lb injectors, we'll see. Better to be safe than sorry..









 I've got to get this together and running so I dont miss my dyno appointment.  They are in 2-3 week backup. I reserved my spot so hopefully I dont have to call and cancel.  It cutting it real close.
 I have to drop my headers off still to have them ceramic coated..that takes a week and half he said. Been to busy at work.. but thats ok! Not complaining about that



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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2020 02:44 pm
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YES!!!!!!!!!! Much easier to turn down an injector then to run it at full duty cycle all the time..........
We are lucky to be working that is for sure.....lots of people need carpet and flooring before the holidays!!!!!!!!! Happens every year.
Excited to see this come together!



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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2020 06:25 pm
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Its been a journey no doubt.. 2 years in the making. And big thanks to you J for the wireing help!👍



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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2020 06:27 pm
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at work at this hotel right now..




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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2020 01:23 pm
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Minor setback... the  injectors I ordered bave the wrong connector!! %*@!%^!!
 I need "jetronic" connectors..these are "uscar" connectioned.. 
So..Ill sell these or send them back.. anhone need any?..lol







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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2020 03:24 pm
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happens all the time..... 16 wires to solder, you can new connects at your fav junk yard :)
Peel and stick looks awesome dude, people have no idea what it takes to layout the carpet in a hotel/casino/cruise ship.... commercial jobs are where the big profit is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2020 09:54 pm
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Major progress today.. I played hooky from.work..SHHHH!!!!



Old mock up block out..









I set the intake and valve covers  on to get a vision..FINALLY!!!

Last edited on Sun Sep 20th, 2020 09:55 pm by Junglejoe



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 Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2020 01:02 am
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Welp.. Another small issue.. I have to run taller valve covers because the stock explorer valve covers won't clear the roller rockers..
Which means I have to run a 1 inch or bigger spacer under the upper intake..
%#*!^$&**!.. thats all for now.. lol



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 Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2020 06:46 pm
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Little ding here..little ding there..never hurt nobody...lol

So that ridge is what kept the valve covers from fitting over the polly locks..now..sand it them again and repaint.. once the valve cover gasket is on..be good to go!







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 Posted: Mon Sep 21st, 2020 11:22 pm
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I had to go back a few post to see which heads you  used. I know you used Trick Flo's Twisted Wedge heads but with Dart heads it is best to get their brand of valve covers.  The mating surface was a bit wider so stock and most other branded aftermarket valve covers didn't fit without modifications. Is this the same case for the Twisted Wedge heads?



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