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Bed Lights and Switches
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2020 05:34 am
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Scrambler82
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One thing on the To-Do List is adding Bed lights to my Steppie Bed.

My plans are for four lights  too mounted close to the Tailgate and two in the middle; I have a bed box so four should be good but might add one or two in the Bed Box too !

Switch will be a single pole double throw with center off, wire for manual and auto-tailgate-on, with an Off position; mounted using an Aircraft Switch cover... down will be the auto mode so if you flip the cover down it will go to that setting.

Both auto and manual switching will have a flashing RED LED on the Dash somewhere, maybe the same one.

Here is what I was thinking for the lighting... the units may change but I'm thinking four of these will put out enough light.




Yes these are LED License Plate Light, waterproof, easy two screw mounting.

The Tailgate Switch




Wiring should be straight forward a single wire with all of the extras before the switch circuit.
AND thanks to JAMMAN I will be adding a Door Switch in the Tailgate area for the Auto mode.

The dash switch 
SPDT

-----  Picture Coming  -----


I'm afraid I won't be back to this modification for a while, it is high on the list of To-Do's, just I'm working on another !

Any thoughts, ideas, add links for lighting and switch, thanks !

Last edited on Thu Mar 5th, 2020 05:35 am by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 01:38 am
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Tsquare
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Go to Amazon and search on "outdoor LED". Select your color and wire it in with your 12 v system. Don't forget to add a switch.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 05:13 am
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Scrambler82
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Tsquare wrote:
Go to Amazon and search on "outdoor LED". Select your color and wire it in with your 12 v system. Don't forget to add a switch.
Thanks for the reply.

I already have the lights I posted above, white is the color.

I plan to buy one of the Plunger Switches I posted also, along with the wire, 18 gauge, maybe 20 gauge, from Amazon.I need to verify the amperage draw on the Lights I posted then I will decide what gauge wire to use.

Thanks for your thoughts on the subject !


Added:  I searched the web to locate similar LED Plate Lights, found a fe with different current requirements; the higher is 0.30 amp.

So Max situation, 6 Lights x 0.30 amps each = 1.8 amp total draw for  the circuit and I will be using 20 gauge wire, more than enough.

I will have to dig through my boxes of wire and see what I have, Red for power and Black for ground.

Last edited on Fri Mar 6th, 2020 05:23 am by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Mar 6th, 2020 05:38 am
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Scrambler82
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Here are the Switch Cover for the Bed Lights, using a SPDT, Center Off, Toggle Switch the Flip Cover should work to throw the switch to the auto setting when the Cover is flipped down.


Last edited on Fri Mar 6th, 2020 10:28 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Mar 15th, 2020 07:48 pm
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Undrstm8ed
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If I may add a suggestion being the creative sort..

Nix the pin switch... its 2020 and even though you're not in the rust belt either. Unnecessary to drill a hole in your bed for that and then those often break. being its mostly plastic based, the heat will kill the plastic in a few years.


example but there are other options  or MY choice Omega AU-46 Mercury Tilt Sensor 

Put that INSIDE the tailgate, its unaffected by temperature, works with an infinite amount of adjustment really when the tailgate is dropped down and you can still put an integrated stop-switch to turn off power to kill lights if necessary or maybe a 3-way switch to toggle  between red/off/white.  I'd add if possible maybe a single LED light of your choosing in "Red" maybe at the head of the bed or maybe (2), one above each wheel well for low low level lighting uses that doesn't take away from your night vision. Especially if you're attaching it under the bed rails and using the lighting more as an indirect lighting.  One reason why I personally have several types of flashlights with different lumens for use is because sometimes, I dont want artificial daylight to search a tote or find something because I dont want the added attention. Sorry, I still think on a SHTF mindset.

In the Flip-pac I used white LED closer to the tailgate for the fact most stuff I would want quick access to is at the back of the bed anyway therefor I used 5w White LED lighting. And for low key lighting I used 7w Red LED forward of the bed for use close to the bed above and the cab.

Outside of that you could certainly make a clean install, one without a hole in your bed exposed to elements for anyone else reading this and or you could spend $20-38 and find yourself a motion sensor like this DEI piece  DEI 508D preferably you want a single zone, which was used commonly as an interior only zone so when you reached into the vehicle with the windows down it would trigger; and actually just turn up the timing of the 555 timer without the sensitivity and have it on a motion sense. but then I feel that could get annoying too or giveaway yourself at a time when you wouldn't want it too.

Just thoughts... but personally my setup works with the second version of a tilt sensor and a 3-way toggle with a matching override switch using a 12" version under the rail on the driver side near the tailgate, and another forward of the bed on the drivers side because of the way I load the bed usually. With the future resting spot of the Dometic fridge going in on the passenger side. it would block to much light anyway unless pulled out on the slide and even then there's an 8" subfloor as an obstacle with the 2" slide frame above that.. kinda useless and the light truly is enough from the one side.


.

Last edited on Sun Mar 15th, 2020 07:49 pm by Undrstm8ed



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 Posted: Mon Mar 16th, 2020 01:49 am
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Scrambler82
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A mercury switch is a good one, but false triggering can be a problem as with any type of tilt switch.

The Pin Switch won't false trigger, only time will tell.

I will need to take a good look at switches before buying one.

Thanks for the thought !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2020 12:09 am
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Undrstm8ed
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Scrambler82 wrote:
A mercury switch is a good one, but false triggering can be a problem as with any type of tilt switch.

The Pin Switch won't false trigger, only time will tell.

I will need to take a good look at switches before buying one.

Thanks for the thought !

Well, after putting in about 4-6 thousand alarms and remote starts back in the day within my 12volt career and short MECP instructional career, I can tell you they havent changed those pin switches in design from the late 80's through 2020 and the way they are designed I would have to say, they can false too. MOSTLY in the sense that the slim ring of metal contact they're given to touch to a solid ground corrodes or maybe the better word is oxidizes and then they dont make any contact so just as bad as falsing - They FAIL in general at at a higher rate than any mercury switch.
The Mercury switch can be both a positive or a negative trigger too.

The issue with Mercury type switches is poor installation thoughts and even less care in how they are setup, meaning the actual common sense of where its installed and how its affected by the end-user parking the vehicle. Does the owner have a steep driveway? If the owner pulls in or backs into that driveway? Is it a sports car or truck - How will the suspension affect the install overtime? Where is it installed at - screwed into a piece of plastic? Metal? Is just two-sided taped in or is it screwed in? Is the mounting tab a solid stiff metal or flimsy metal? Did the installer use a proper pan-head screw or did he anchor it with a typical drywall screw? Is it in the front of the vehicle? Rear? How will that change if the vehicle is on an incline? Is the circuit a single or two stage trigger? Is it a real mercury switch or one of the cheap ebay BB's in a plastic tube? Can it be bypassed or circumvented..?  All these questions and maybe a couple others usually come to my mind from those days. My observation is if someones being cheap (chinese ebay walmart products come to mind) for the part, (NOT saying this is you, i'm merely making a generalization) Then what short cuts are they taking during the installation process? Can't ignore Fact when you see it on a day to day for 23+ years and then in several industries abroad from that too.

I mean I've people watched men for example, in a gas station or mini-mart, shop for a snack like women would while buying high-end high heels.. but then short cut something that really matters. I don't know what that's all about. Maybe someone can elevate my mind on WTH that's all about.

Also keep in mind that the ground wires in a Frame harness and its support harnesses will run back to the cab in circuits like lights or fuel pumps or to the frame itself. The bed is ONLY bolted in through large "speed clips" in the frame, NOT exactly the best "grounded" point of the vehicle. You can get a voltage drop across a negative just as easily as across a positive, keep that in mind while running your ground and what kind of ground you use if you do use a pin-switch and where its terminated at.





Just added $ .02

Last edited on Thu Mar 19th, 2020 12:18 am by Undrstm8ed



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
.
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 Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2020 02:44 am
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Scrambler82
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Undrstm8ed wrote:

Also keep in mind that the ground wires in a Frame harness and its support harnesses will run back to the cab in circuits like lights or fuel pumps or to the frame itself. The bed is ONLY bolted in through large "speed clips" in the frame, NOT exactly the best "grounded" point of the vehicle. You can get a voltage drop across a negative just as easily as across a positive, keep that in mind while running your ground and what kind of ground you use if you do use a pin-switch and where its terminated at.

Just added $ .02


_______________________

Grounding is by far the biggest problem in any vehicle, and running extra grounds back the a terminal buss and then to the battery is one of the most important thing anyone can do.   Most of the time my grands for higher powered units are sent back to the Negative (added) Terminal Buss, nothing like a good ground path to keep those electrons flowing.

I add an extra ground from my Starter back to the Battery, that way the starter get all the power it needs and a good ground.
AND don't forget the alternator back to the battery, dirt and rust can raise havoc with grounds.



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Mar 20th, 2020 12:18 am
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Amen to the ground. You can read voltage between your negative terminal on the battery and the engine block with the motor running and the lights on. That is if your meter is sensitive enough. I am an extra ground believer and the last time I did heads (2001 Dodge Pickup 4.7) I put a double wire on the ground from the back of the head to the firewall.



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