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Heater control valve vs clogged heater c       #: 1958
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 06:51 am
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Russ Osborne 98 Ranger
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No heat. AC works fine. I didn't even think to test the heat when I bought the truck.
Is there any way to test the heater control valve short of taking it out of the circuit?
I'm about to do the core flush, but want to make sure the control valve is working first if possible.
And yes, even in the Phoenix area we need heat sometimes. :D
Thanks,
Russ

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 Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 11:03 am
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Should be able to just unplug the vacuum line and have heat in theory that is.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 11:03 am
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It takes 2 people to see if it is working properly, hard to see if it is moving from inside the truck. If it isn't moving on its own you can disconnect the vacuum line and attempt to move it manually and see if that nets heat.

If no heat and it is moving it is REAL EASY with that setup to flush the heater core, take the 2 hoses off the plastic valve, the ones going to the firewall (make sure the truck has been sitting and the coolant is not hot) and simply flush it with a garden hose one direction then the other then back again, do not blow it out with compressed air unless you have a regulator and can keep it under 20PSI.

Chances are it isn't the heater valve or the core, probably the blend door but flushing the core and checking the valve is easy and should be done first.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 12th, 2020 12:54 pm
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410customs

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do you have an infrared thermometer?
Can you hear/feel the blend door moving when you switch from cold to hot? Blend door motor is behind the glove box



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 Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 08:36 am
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Russ Osborne 98 Ranger
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Thanks.
Infrared thermometer, somewhere around here. :fp
Blend door does NOT sound like fun. Good thing I already have the service manual on cd I guess. I will do the other things this weekend first. If not those, I may just not have heat. Unless it is a lot easier than I am thinking. Most Fords I am used to the dash has to come out for heater box work.
Russ

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 Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 01:08 pm
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410customs

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blend door repairs can be done without removing the dash
Only time I have to remove the dash is to get to the heater core
These aluminum heater cores can last forever....backflush is the way to service them and get a long long life. I am always amazed at the crap that comes out of the heater core when you flush it backwards
Blend door repairs can range from simply putting a small piece of metal in the actuator so it grabs the door flap axle shaft better, all the way to cutting the bottom of the HVAC box open and installing a new Dorman blend door, patch the box back up and you're good to go. I have repaired MANY blend doors from mild to wild, 99% of the time the repair is done from the passenger floor board.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 03:30 pm
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Russ Osborne 98 Ranger wrote:
No heat. AC works fine. I didn't even think to test the heat when I bought the truck.
Is there any way to test the heater control valve short of taking it out of the circuit?
I'm about to do the core flush, but want to make sure the control valve is working first if possible.
And yes, even in the Phoenix area we need heat sometimes. :D
Thanks,
Russ

I read the postings but didn't notice, do you have heat out of the Defroster Vents to the windshield or just no heat... period ?

As these trucks get older there is always something going wrong.
Wish I had 410 or someone like him in SoCal !



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 Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 03:48 pm
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410customs

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oh there are others like me especially in So Cal, they are just not as nice or as cheap! LMFAO



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 Posted: Thu Feb 13th, 2020 05:25 pm
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410customs wrote:
oh there are others like me especially in So Cal, they are just not as nice or as cheap! LMFAO
Just finding them is the problem.
Your first available to talk and suggest ideas, and you have the experience some thing they have... that to me is a biggy !

Thanks for all you do for the Site !



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Feb 19th, 2020 10:31 pm
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Russ Osborne 98 Ranger
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No heat at all. I do get air out of all the vents when I select them.
Question on the blend door. I read somewhere that the blend door was an issue on 2002 and up Rangers. Was that incorrect? Can't remember where at the moment.
At the moment we are down to just the Ranger running, so I can't do anything to it. I have a knack for making a  10 minute job into a couple of days. :'(
Thanks,
Russ

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 Posted: Tue Feb 25th, 2020 12:29 am
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mhoward
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Not sure about the blend door being an issue on 2002 and up in particular.  Sometimes the electronic actuator will go bad (plastic gears strip or the little motor fries).  Some actuators are MECHANICAL... my 2003 EDGE was mechanical until I did the EATC mod and made it all automatic.  You can drop the glove box down, shine a light in there and you can see it.  Do that while the engine is running and change the temp from cool to hot.  You can reach up in there and feel if the spindle moves.

Blend door actuator location (as seen from glove box):


Blend door actuators (top view):



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 Posted: Tue Feb 25th, 2020 01:53 pm
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there is one gear inside the actuator that strips out
I will buy a cheap dorman actuator and instead of installing the dorman part I pull it apart and rob the gear, use it to fix the ford part....re install.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 25th, 2020 02:57 pm
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mhoward
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When I did my EATC mod, I took the donor actuator apart... cleaned, inspected, fresh grease and put it back together.  The pics I posted above are from the tech article I snagged years ago.



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Thu Feb 27th, 2020 12:57 am
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There  are videos on YouTube that help diagnose and repair this problem.

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 Posted: Mon May 17th, 2021 02:14 pm
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If blend door seems to be working, switching air flow & vents as it should, may be the HeaterControlValve in the 5/8" heater hose loop feeding the HeaterCore.
With heat on max, do both hoses in front of the FireWall, in & out of the HeaterCore, get hot?
If not, the VacToClose line to HeaterControlValve has gotten loose, or the HeaterControlValve dashpot is shot, or there is an air "dam" in the HeaterCore hose loop which needs to be bled off.
Not sure which version of the Valve you've got?

A few years back, replaced the 2way junk Plastic HeaterControl"Ball"Valve with older style Metal HeaterControl"Plug"Valve, both are VacToClose. Click links below for more info.
...
https://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant_HeaterValve
...
https://static.wikia.nocookie.net/2001fordexplorersporttrac/images/7/73/2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Cool_Heat.Valv_Norm%3DOpen_Ford.yg368.GIF

...
https://static.wikia.nocookie.net/2001fordexplorersporttrac/images/d/da/2001.Ford.ExST_Engi.Cool_Heat.Valv_Norm%3DOpen_4Seasons.74603.GIF

Last edited on Mon May 17th, 2021 02:29 pm by DILLARD000



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 Posted: Mon May 17th, 2021 02:45 pm
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mhoward
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I didn't know there was a metal version.  I work for a plastics company, but I feel like some things just shouldn't be made of plastic.  The heater valve is one of those things.  Thanks for the info! :-)



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