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AC PROBLEM
 Moderated by: MaDMaXX, Mike69, NoPower
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 Posted: Tue Sep 10th, 2019 07:30 pm
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Ranger_Danger_
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Hey everyone! Your local Ranger Gal here. I need some help.

My 2005 2.3L AC has stopped working.
Here is the symptoms:
AC will, at random, blow cold. No specific amount of time. Sometimes it is 15 minutes. Sometimes it is 10 seconds. 
It will mostly blow hot. Much like the temperature outside (Sunny Central Florida). 
I have recharged it, added more of the Refrigerant and had pressure on the little compressor, and it blew cold in the cab. The compressor had condensation and I can hear it turn on.

What could it be?
I know there is a switch in the actual panel, and there is a "Heater Valve" that differentiates between hot/cold. 
I just don't want to start buying items and replacing stuff for no reason. AC parts are not cheap.

PLEASE HELP



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"So Many Ideas. So Little Money."

Tonto - 2005 Ford Ranger 2.3L 5 Speed XLT 2WD
Donor- 2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L Auto Eddie Bauer 2WD
Sith - 2004 TRX450R(Kick Start)[SOLD]
Lil’ Blue - 2008 YZ85(2 Stroke)
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 Posted: Tue Sep 10th, 2019 08:43 pm
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JAMMAN

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If the pump is not cycling then it is something to do with that blend door.

When the AC is on the pump should not go on and off so if it is there is something wrong with that part of the system.

The door is actuated by vacuum so SO MUCH can go wrong. Might have a vacuum line leak to that big black ball and it can't keep up. If you notice it while driving but the minute you are at idle it starts blowing cold that would be a symptom.

So one thing at a time in line... does the pump cycle on and off during operation?

If not does it happen more when driving than sitting still?



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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 Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 01:54 am
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V8 Level II
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JAMMAN wrote:
 
When the AC is on the pump should not go on and off so if it is there is something wrong with that part of the system.

When correctly charged, it is normal for the compressor to cycle on and off.  It does this to prevent the temperature of the evaporator coil from dropping  low enough to cause icing.

Excessive cycling frequency may indicate a low refrigerant charge.



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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals, BW4406 manual T/C
Aussie Locker, Torsen L/S, 4.10's, Bilstein 7100 rezzies, Cadillac/Mustang rear discs, Duff traction bars
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Other rides:
2016 C-MAX Energi (plug-in Hybrid)
2011 Taurus SEL (highway cruiser)
2003 Ranger 2.3L M5ODR1 Regular Cab (drudge)

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 Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 01:37 pm
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JAMMAN

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This is not something I have witnessed in what I would consider normal operating systems, but your record speaks for itself and I'll hit the books again.



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
"I'm thinking about buying a horse eventually, I'll take half a dozen carts please"
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 Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 03:11 pm
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Ranger_Danger_
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I know the compressor works. It will blow cold when I recharge it. And occasionally I will let it idle and the truck will blow cold AC. It does not always works, but on the occasion I am lucky (Was in the woods taking truck pictures for Instagram, and it was 100 something, luckily AC kicked on and worked until I got home).

I think I am going to get that door actuator. It's around $20-$30 and I know how to change it. So I might start there and hope it'll work. Been reading and doing research, and that seems to be the cheapest and easiest fix so far. I think if it was a leak, it would not have any refrigerant in it. And when I put the gauge on it, it says full. 

Let's hope this works. Gonna order the door piece once my check goes through tonight at midnight. :)



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"So Many Ideas. So Little Money."

Tonto - 2005 Ford Ranger 2.3L 5 Speed XLT 2WD
Donor- 2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L Auto Eddie Bauer 2WD
Sith - 2004 TRX450R(Kick Start)[SOLD]
Lil’ Blue - 2008 YZ85(2 Stroke)
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 Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 10:10 pm
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This probably isn’t the root of your problem but what 99% of people don’t do is clean the condenser coil! I’ve seen trucks with 100k that the coil was totally plugged causing hight head pressure when the motor is at 1500+ rpm, and the high pressure switch to cut out. Doesn’t take any fancy tools, just a good some and if need be some purple power.

It’s not recommended but I sometimes do it anyway, using a/c condenser cleaner for like a house unit on the micro channel but sometimes when a trans cooler leaks it’ll gum the fins up and it’ll never come off without using real coil cleaner. My .02



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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
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 Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 12:33 am
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Troubleshooting steps per the Workshop Manual:

1) The A/C is inoperative/does not operate correctly. Possible causes; fuse, A/C control relay, circuit open/short, A/C cycling switch, A/C system discharged/low charge, pressure cutoff switch, or function selector switch.

2) Insufficient A/C cooling. Possible causes; restricted A/C evaporator core orifice, restricted A/C evaporator core, low refrigerant level, A/C cycling switch, temperature blend door actuator control, engine overheating, condenser airflow restricted, or heater control valve.

Electrical diagram for A/C compressor clutch:


Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System



All A/C systems leak at the compressor pulley, this keeps the bearing lubricated. The only way to know if the system has the correct charge is to empty the system, pull vacuum, and then recharge.

The "Heater Valve" is a vacuum operated valve on the heater core outlet hose. This controls flow of engine coolant through the heater core. Opens when heat is selected, closes when cool is selected.

Hopefully some of this is helpful.

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 Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 12:43 am
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4.0power
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RCR4V3N wrote:
Troubleshooting steps per the Workshop Manual:

1) The A/C is inoperative/does not operate correctly. Possible causes; fuse, A/C control relay, circuit open/short, A/C cycling switch, A/C system discharged/low charge, pressure cutoff switch, or function selector switch.

2) Insufficient A/C cooling. Possible causes; restricted A/C evaporator core orifice, restricted A/C evaporator core, low refrigerant level, A/C cycling switch, temperature blend door actuator control, engine overheating, condenser airflow restricted, or heater control valve.

Electrical diagram for A/C compressor clutch:


Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System



All A/C systems leak at the compressor pulley, this keeps the bearing lubricated. The only way to know if the system has the correct charge is to empty the system, pull vacuum, and then recharge.

The "Heater Valve" is a vacuum operated valve on the heater core outlet hose. This controls flow of engine coolant through the heater core. Opens when heat is selected, closes when cool is selected.

Hopefully some of this is helpful.

Technically your wrong on the only way to know how much is left in a the system. Since the ranger has a true suction port versus say a 2004 gmc 2500 that the high side port is before the orfice, and the low side port is right after the orfice. That system has to be recovered, vacuumed, them recharged. 
when my other ranger needs a “boost” in the spring, I’ll run the motor at 2 grand, windows up, blower on the third setting since that is usually where I run the a/c and I simply shot for a 40 degree evapcore.



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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans
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 Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 01:02 am
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Eddie Money
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Just an fyi.

I hope everybody knows defrost runs through the AC and thats why you hear it click when defrost is on. The other thing everybody should know is that the most efficient AC setting is max AC. If you want to improve milage turn you heater control off of defrost when not in use. I ran my truck with the heater control set at defrost and even with the fan off It still clicked. Now I set it on panel and floor when I'm not defrosting or cooling.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 16th, 2019 05:47 pm
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Ranger_Danger_
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Hey everyone. Just wanted to update y’all. 
I got the AC fixed! I put in the new door actuator. That didn’t fix it. 

On a whim. I’d read that a relay sometimes can go bad or get gummed up. 
I figured. Eh. With the discounts I get and the amount of coupons I have for Advance. I might as well get the relay. Just for shits and giggles. 

Today. I opened the original owners manual. Found out which relay it is. 

(56A) in the 2.3L fuse/relay box. It is top right if you’re standing in front of the driver side fender. It’s a skinnier one next to two bigger ones. 

I fired the truck up. It took a second. And then it blew ice cold. I let it idle and it only got colder. Cleaned up the interior. Kept turning it off and on. It stayed cold. 

ALWAYS CHECK YOUR RELAYS BOYS!!



____________________
"So Many Ideas. So Little Money."

Tonto - 2005 Ford Ranger 2.3L 5 Speed XLT 2WD
Donor- 2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L Auto Eddie Bauer 2WD
Sith - 2004 TRX450R(Kick Start)[SOLD]
Lil’ Blue - 2008 YZ85(2 Stroke)
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 Posted: Tue Sep 17th, 2019 12:53 am
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thanks Danger



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