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No AC. Need some help please
 Moderated by: MaDMaXX, Mike69, NoPower
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 Posted: Fri Aug 23rd, 2019 11:06 am
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NewShockerGuy
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I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L auto. About 2-3 weeks ago my wife drove my truck and said that there was just hot air blowing out. I confirmed this when I drove. Turn to max ac and it's just the ambient air or as hot as it is outside.

Back in 2013, I replaced the AC compressor because it was seized. I replaced the dryer, reed valve. Vacuumed the system complete, put in pag oil 46, and then the r132a. It's been fine even though I have had to refill the system/top it off a couple years ago. Which makes me believe there is a leak somewhere...(get into it later).

Thinking it was just the low pressure switch I replaced both that and the high pressure switch. I did not hear the AC clutch engaging at all. And when I temporarily jumped the LP wires the compressor did kick on. After replacing those I ran into the same problem. AC compressor did not kick on. I tried to refill the system even after pulling a vacuum. The vacuum was at -28. It held that for over an hour... So if it does have a leak it's very small perhaps? When I've done this in the past the ac clutch still engages and I am able to fill the system. This time around I could hear the click but didn't see the compressor clutch engage. Not sure what that means.

I did some basic trouble shooting. I hooked up my multimeter to the AC clutch hardness (gray connector on side of compressor 2-wires) while the truck was on and the AC MAX was selected. It only read 0.038 volts. I would think this should be 12v, no? OR Does it only send 12v once the relay opens and the PCM tells it to engage? That's the only thing I can think of why it wouldn't read 12v? I was under the assumption that it that plug should read 12v all the time but I couldn't find anywhere on that information. If I jump the low pressure wires the clutch will engage. I did not take a reading on the harness after jumping the low pressure wires. I will do that today. I would think at that point it's sending 12v to the compressor clutch, but not 100% until I check.

So it brings me to my next point. My truck is 18 years old. It's in good condition minus this AC. Still drives fine (slow mind you since it's a 2.3l auto), but other than that doesn't look it's age at all. I feel like perhaps I should have replaced other components when I did this back in 2013, but at the time I wasn't that knowledgeable in terms of removing all that stuff. Now I am on the mind set that I should be replacing all components. The condenser, lines..etc. Those are all almost 20 years old, original to the truck and probably should be replaced. 

I've attached a screen shot of all the components I would get. All motorcraft. It's around $600+ for all the stuff which makes me wonder if I should. I don't want a car payment and I am not interested in buying a new truck. This one serves me well on what I use it for and it's fortunately not a DD so I can have it taken apart in the garage on the lift for however long it needs to be.

Should I be checking other stuff or anything that might be glaring that I am missing?

I will note that when I checked pressure after my wife said there was no AC, the high side showed almost nothing. The low side if I remember correctly was low as well, and when I tried to fill from the low side that gauge rose 70psi..etc. but the highside stayed almost nothing, it only went up 5psi (almost nothing).

My only fear is changing everything in the below screen shot and then having it still exhibit the same behavior as it is now.  Note that I would prefer to stick with motorcraft stuff and not have to do said work again.

Sorry for the long read. Just want AC back ;-)


Thanks,
-Nigel

Attachment: ac components.JPG (Downloaded 73 times)



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 Posted: Fri Aug 23rd, 2019 11:44 am
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JAMMAN

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Personally (and facing the same thing on one of mine) I would fill it till it kicks on and instead of plain PAG oil put the oil with the fluorescent dye in it. Drive it with AC on for a couple days and get out the black light.

On one of my trucks I can charge the AC (R134A) and used the dye... found it was the fitting connecting the line to the condenser and the fitting going to the back of the pump.

I haven't put the o rings on but I know it lasts for 2 1/2 days previously and I'm hoping to increase this by a 1/2 season at least.

Rock Auto sells a kit that is way cheaper, 410customs has been having good luck with these replacements. I don't have the link handy I'm sure he will chime in.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 23rd, 2019 12:41 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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I'll try again. That's the thing though, it wouldn't fill the AC system. The LP side kept rising but the high pressure side wasn't increasing. At that point I wasn't really sure what to do or keep going. I had the low side pressure to 80psi.

I have no problem changing out everything but I would kick myself in the nuts to change everything only to be in the same boat and it doesn't work. I'd be livid...lol

-Nigel



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 Posted: Fri Aug 23rd, 2019 02:25 pm
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JAMMAN

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80 psi isn't bad if the compressor isn't on, but the HP side should be the same as the LP when the compressor is not running. Slightly higher (LP) while filling but the minute you shut the fill they should stabilize like less than 10 seconds.

If the LP is going up and the HP is not, your orifice tube has completely clogged. Failed, busted, fragments, something is blocking it completely.



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
"I'm thinking about buying a horse eventually, I'll take half a dozen carts please"
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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 10:07 am
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NewShockerGuy
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Welp I appreciate that information! Looks like I have some stuff to completely take apart and replace. lol

Good thing it's not the dd so I can take my time, crappy part is it's going to be around $700 to replace everything, which I probably should have done from the get go, but oh well.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 01:27 pm
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JAMMAN

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410 customs has been having luck with the complete 4 seasons kit from rock auto, substantial savings:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,ranger,2.3l+l4,1372676,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor+&+component+kit,17507



____________________
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
"I'm thinking about buying a horse eventually, I'll take half a dozen carts please"
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 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 03:45 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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Yep I was looking at that exact kit, but there is a part of me that is screaming stick with OEM. I've run into that issue once with my STi where I bought a cheaper ball joint and no matter what just didn't last even with their lifetime warranty. It was just the hassle of removing and redoing. Ended up going OEM and it's been fine for years.

Anymore I think I buy more OEM when it comes to vehicle stuff.

I priced everything together and if I went with all offbrand stuff it would be less than half the cost of all OEM. I love that but concerned with redoing.

Now that fall is coming, it might not be as bad honestly and I might even start buying pieces so it's not a chunk all at once.. then by spring replace everything. I am half tempted to install a power window retro kit that I saw on you tube of a ranger edge guy and for $50 have the convenience of power windows. The switches look kind of stupid because they are stuck on the panels but it appears they function fine with up and down motion.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Sep 11th, 2019 10:24 pm
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I had the same problem after I installed a/c into my 2003 2.3, id have 150 psi standing pressure, the low pressure switch would never make, said F it, jumped it out ever since. Now the sucky part with pag oil is that it loves moister, and no vacuum will ever get rid of it, if your system was done dry I’d look into doing a flush and oil change.  

 I’ve thought about getting a refrigeration pressure switch for a walk in cooler since it should fit the threads on the ranger low pressure switch. And that should solve the problem. 

Btw I’ve been giving my parts store compressor 12 volts and it’s been fine. If you where looking to upgrade the orfice tube, get a  thermostatic one, I put one in man it freezes me out unlike the factory one.



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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
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 Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 01:43 am
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RCR4V3N
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The system holds vacuum, should not be a leak. Your pressure readings do look like a bad/clogged orifice tube, so may be a leak/open between the compressor and the orifice. The Workshop Manual requires a Refrigerant System Filtering after any component change.









Diagnostic Table
1.    
NOTE: The following table is used to guide diagnosis of the refrigerant system if operating pressures are outside normal limits.
Refer to the chart below.











































High (Discharge) Pressure

Low (Suction) Pressure

Component — Causes

High or Clutch Cycling

High

Condenser — inadequate airflow.
High

Normal to High

Engine — overheating.
Normal to High

Normal

Refrigerant overcharge — air in refrigerant.
Normal to Low

High

TXV not operating correctly.
Normal to Low

Normal to High

A/C suction line — partially restricted or plugged. a
Normal to Low

Low or Clutch Cycling

Low refrigerant charge, A/C suction line — partially restricted or plugged A/C cycling switch — sticking closed (if equipped). b
Erratic Operation or Compressor Not Running

A/C cycling switch — poor connection at A/C clutch connector or clutch cycling switch connector. A/C electrical circuit erratic — see A/C Electrical Circuit Wiring Diagram.
Normal to Low

High

Compressor — low performance.
Additional Possible Cause Components Associated With Inadequate Compressor Operation

·        Compressor Drive Belt — loose
·        Compressor Clutch — slipping
·        Clutch Coil Open — shorted, or loose mounting
·        Control Assembly Switch — dirty contacts or sticking open
·        Clutch Wiring Circuit — high resistance, open or blown fuse
·        Compressor Operation Interrupted by Engine Computer
Additional Possible Cause Components Associated With a Damaged Compressor

·        Incorrect Clutch Air-gap
·        Suction Accumulator — refrigerant oil bleed hose plugged
·        Refrigerant Leaks

a Low pressure reading will be normal to high if pressure is taken at accumulator and if restriction is downstream of service access valve.
b Low pressure reading will be low if pressure is taken near the compressor and restriction is upstream of service access valve.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 15th, 2019 03:07 pm
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FLUSH the system

How does your orifice tube look? I believe you replaced it back in 2013, it may have been gunked up again very quickly
When the old compressor went south it likely filled the whole system with little bits of metal and grey gunk
So the new parts you install were starting to fail the moment they were put into service.
The only way to get the "black death" out of the system is to replace all the wear parts, and flush/clean the system before pulling vacuum and putting the new parts in service.

Just because your system will hold 28 newtons or whatever of vacuum does not mean it will hold 160+ psi when in operation.
We pull the vacuum as a leak test (kinda) but really it is to remove all air (potential H20) from the system
Huge PITA I am going through the same thing with 3 of our trucks....3 of them!!!! This is what happens when you drive old stuff.
I do not have a flush machine they are big $$$$ so I will be paying a local shop to clean/flush my ac systems before I pull vacuum and charge......that is the plan anyways

The Four seasons stuff has been good for the $$$$
It's not the new parts fault that the "black death" already existed in the system

Last edited on Sun Sep 15th, 2019 03:10 pm by 410customs



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