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Clutch Replacement
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 Posted: Wed Aug 14th, 2019 05:03 am
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VelociRanger
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So it’s about time for a new clutch. I believe it’s the original one with 140,000 miles on it, and now the truck is difficult to put into first and second gear and it almost wants to stall; I barely saved it today in traffic. I’ve seen write ups, I’ve seen videos, but none of them are exactly how to do it from step 1 to the last step. I want to do it myself and save the 500 labor costs, and so I’ve priced the items in a cart and the total is ~$300. This truck is my daily driver and I rely on it to get to work and back, so is this something that I can really do in a weekend? Start early Saturday, and finish on Sunday? I have no power tools, and no lift so just the bare necessities here lol. Here’s the parts list on rock auto, feel free to suggest different parts/manufacturers:





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 Posted: Wed Aug 14th, 2019 06:10 am
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Have you seen this one?
https://www.ford-rangers.com/forum46/1661.html



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 Posted: Wed Aug 14th, 2019 02:44 pm
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I know LUK does not sell a complete hydraulics kit )pre bled) BUT I would not chance it with the "perfection" stuff.... stick with LUK!
The slave cylinder is mounted inside the trans, so you want to use a good one. The cheap ones like Duralast, Powertorque etc have been leaking after just a few weeks!!

It is SUPER EASY to bleed your hydraulics, simply fill the system and pull the top(Pushrod) off the master cyl till fluid appears and close it back up...then install in truck and you will have to bleed the slave like 2-3 times, done.
Get ALL LUK parts!! Even if you plan to swap to a big V6 later, spend a little now and save yourself HEADACHES



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 Posted: Wed Aug 14th, 2019 03:43 pm
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Current Rock Auto discount code:
116342975108066727



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 Posted: Wed Aug 14th, 2019 11:24 pm
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Okay, is this a better list now? Is there anything I’m forgetting? I got the slave cylinder but not the master cylinder, should I do both? LUK doesn’t have a kit like perfection does, but I figured the space cylinder alone might work. All LUK except the shifter repair kit, which I’ve heard is great for better shifting. Also, is it safe to assume the new clutch comes with a new pilot bearing? And thanks for the discount code 410, BUT I CANT FIGURE OUT WHERE TO ENTER IT!! Lol






Last edited on Thu Aug 15th, 2019 01:26 am by VelociRanger



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 Posted: Thu Aug 15th, 2019 01:51 pm
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Get the Luk master cylinder as well
You can re use your OEM hydraulic line, or you can order a new one of those also

You need:
Clutch pack
slave cyl
master cyl
clutch line (can re use your old)
Flywheel (can re use your old)

Dorman shifter bushings are a great idea, the nylon rings wear out and shifting gets sloppy.

Yes the new clutch set comes with a pilot bearing, driven disc, pressure plate and alignment tool. They usually come with the tool to release the line from the slave cylinder also, but a pair of flathead or good set of needle nose can work too

You do not have to buy a new flywheel you can re use your old one and have it turned at a local shop, should cost around $15-25.
I have also just used sand paper and brake cleaner and refresh the old flywheel. Honestly I have never had an issue this way, especially with 140K miles (low miles).
As long as your old flywheel is in good shape you can semi re surface it yourself with fine wet sand paper , PB blaster followed by brake cleaner. Look for any hairline cracks and check thickness, otherwise good.
You can even leave the flywheel on the engine this way and use a piece of bread to push the old pilot bearing out....yes a piece of bread. It works so well and leaves no mess.
Clean pilot bearing of grease, moosh up a piece of bread with your hands and start stuffing it in the center hole...mash the bread into the pilot with something round that fits the hole and a hammer... as soon as you get enough bread in there the pilot bearing slides out. Then you are left with a bread "plug" which comes out clean...no mess



The discount code goes in the spot that says "How did you hear about us"
It will save you 5%, rock auto actually encourages us to share these codes. I almost always have one since I order so many parts for myself and customers...

My first clutch job when my BII was all stock took 4 days! That was working in front of a friends house, borrowing his tools and knowledge about 25 years ago now. then a couple years later I did my clutch/trans 4 times in a couple of weeks, trying to get it to work right after the 4.0 conversion. Years later I would learn about the air bubble in the master cyl getting trapped and realized that was probably my issue the whole time. I installed two different transmissions and a few different clutch setups, eventually converted my truck to automatic because I never could get 1st gear easily. Auto trans are better for 4x4ing anyways and light towing which is what my BII was built for early on.
Now I have done countless clutches in Rangers, Explorers, diesels, even a few mustangs (3rd bolt on the starter WTF????!) and a full size bronco. 
I can do a 4wd ranger clutch in about 4-6 hours....you learn alot in 25 years.
You can do this!!
Knowledge is power and power can save you $$$$!!!

Last edited on Thu Aug 15th, 2019 05:20 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Fri Aug 16th, 2019 03:39 am
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Okay, so oddly enough there’s 2 master cylinders from LUK, and they’re drastically different in price?? Which is correct? Sorry if I’m asking too many questions or dumb ones, I’ve never done this before so I don’t want to mess anything up or get the wrong stuff. And so is this something I could do in a weekend if I don’t mess anything up? If not I may pay a shop, I don’t have time to have the truck down for 4 days. And the reason I’m getting a new flywheel is because there aren’t very many reputable machine shops in my area and I figured I might as well do everything brand new since I’m down there. The flywheel isn’t too much more than resurfacing a new one anyways, plus I would have a back up just in case!



Which is the correct part?





 Or




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 Posted: Fri Aug 16th, 2019 02:55 pm
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one comes with a new reservoir, new hydraulic line, and the 3 position clutch switch, the other does not.

Don't worry about asking too many questions! There are no bad questions only bad teachers
You are smart for being prepared for the big clutch job ahead of time
Knowledge is power!!

I can help walk you through this whole job as if I was under the truck with you, I have dropped so many transmissions on these trucks it is like second nature. I have tips and tricks that can help make it go real smoothly

Last edited on Fri Aug 16th, 2019 02:57 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Fri Aug 16th, 2019 10:51 pm
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Alright, I got the more expensive one from LUK because I’d like as many new parts as possible. They shipped on 2 separate trucks, and the second truck should be here by the 21st so we’ll have fun that following weekend. I have some coworkers on standby that I’ve asked for help so I won’t be doing it alone, or maybe I will who knows what happens in a week. I will probably be asking you a lot of questions leading up to and the day of my clutch replacement. Thanks for all of the help! I’m excited lol.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2019 03:00 pm
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You got this

To drop the transmission I first support the trans and remove the trans mount and crossmember, then I use a 36" extension and a large impact driver, I sit back behind the transmission with plenty of light and in less then 120 seconds can get all of the bell housing bolts out in one move.....

So for you:
disconnect the - battery cable
remove the starter
remove the rear d shaft
Drain the transmission (good idea, not necessary but a good time to change the fluid)
remove the shifter from inside the truck
unhook the hydraulic line to clutch slave
support trans, remove mount and crossmember
let back of transmission hang
remove all BH bolts
Trans is out

Now you are looking at the old clutch



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 Posted: Sun Aug 18th, 2019 02:57 am
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Okay, that seems simple enough. I don’t have an extension that long nor do I have an impact, so it’s gonna be all hand tools. I still need to get a torque wrench or I can rent one, and transmission fluid may have to wait until I get paid again so I just won’t drain the trans. I watched a video about doing the clutch and he said there’s some bolts on the top of the 2008 transmission that are extremely hard to get to, so I bet those will take some time. Are the transmission bolts all the same length, or do they go in specific holes?



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 Posted: Sun Aug 18th, 2019 01:33 pm
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specific holes, so just keep them in order as you pull them out. The transmission is different thickness' when it comes off the engine so its pretty obvious where the short and longer bolts go...

The top bolts are much easier to get at when you let the back of the transmission hang down and use a long extension from the back. This is exactly why I drop the trans mount and cross member first and use a long extension. You can buy one of those 36" extensions or piece together a bunch of shorter ones, the goal is to be near the tailhousing when you do all of the bellhousing bolts because you can reach them all at once.
I didn't ever use an impact either up until a few years ago. Doing it by hand doesn't take that much longer and it gives you strong muscles :)


On some trucks you have to drop the exhaust too I forgot to mention that!

If you think the bolts on top of the 5 speed are hard to get at try doing the V8 transmission in the gen II explorer...talk about a tight fit. Still I use the same methods. It is actually refreshing to me when I get to do a 5 speed because the bolts are visible and I can chest the 5 speed (no transmission jack needed I just bench press it)

Last edited on Sun Aug 18th, 2019 01:34 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Aug 19th, 2019 04:47 pm
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Okay, so you literally just unbolt the crossmember and then let the back of the transmission hang down?? That’s not gonna mess anything up?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 20th, 2019 01:12 am
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Our own ranger danger, ranger gal did a very thorough how to write up on this just a month or 2 back. Link below.

https://ford-rangers.com/forum46/1661.html

Last edited on Tue Aug 20th, 2019 01:12 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2019 01:25 am
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All my parts are here!! So new and shiny! Lol I’m excited now and much less nervous. Will it be a chore? Probably. Is it gonna be difficult? Most likely. Is it possible? Most definitely. Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions, I’ll update this weekend and let everyone know how it went and if I messed something up. :thumbsup:



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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2019 02:18 am
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Good Luck



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VelociRanger wrote:
All my parts are here!! So new and shiny! Lol I’m excited now and much less nervous. Will it be a chore? Probably. Is it gonna be difficult? Most likely. Is it possible? Most definitely. Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions, I’ll update this weekend and let everyone know how it went and if I messed something up. :thumbsup:
I did a how-to in the how-to section.
Link: https://www.ford-rangers.com/forum46/1661.html

There is also a super helpful YouTube video series online who did the same job. I only used the video for the shifter in the cab because I couldn't understand what the hell kind of bolt it is! If you need any help, you can DM me on Instagram @kaylee_dale__ or message me on here (I get email notifications)
I own the factory 2,000-something page workshop manual if you need any images or files of it. Just lemme know! Good luck!!



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 Posted: Sat Aug 24th, 2019 08:01 pm
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Little update: I need new trans fluid, it was nearly black. Also, the drain plug was full of metal shavings, I’ll post a picture later. So here’s the dilemma; the chiltons manual says to use mercon for vehicles earlier than 2010. But, apparently mercon was no longer licensed by ford in about 2007 and so it’s said to use mercon v, but on that same not it’s said that using mercon v in a transmission that requires mercon will cause damage to the transmission....? Which to use?



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 Posted: Sat Aug 24th, 2019 10:27 pm
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Another update; I got everything unbolted (except for the transmission) and I have one thing to say....THERE IS WAY MORE THAN JUST ONE OR 2 SENSORS TO DISCONNECT!! Lol there were 3 I had to disconnect, then the fuel lines were on a bracket connected to the top of the transmission, then one of the connectors was also on a bracket connected to the transmission, and there was at least one more I can’t remember where. I got to the crossmember And my ratchet slipped off the bolt and hit me in my face so there is a hole in my chin now and my tooth is chipped. But, things are moving forward fairly smooth.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 24th, 2019 11:25 pm
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Good job!! making progress!! Sucks chipping a tooth. I had a hillbilly smile for over 10years. I finally found a place I could afford and got it fixed.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 25th, 2019 02:04 am
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Thanks! And yeah I’m not that worried about it, but the hole in my lip is extremely painful. The inside of my bottom lip is bruised too, so eating is nearly impossible. And it won’t quit bleeding. But anyways, I got 9 of the 10 transmission bolts out, the last one is going to have to wait until tomorrow because it’s going to be supremely difficult to get out. It’s like right smack dab in the middle of the trans right at the top, and it’s shrouded by 259,689,992,749 wires and hoses so it’s super difficult and a super tight. Other than the clutch and flywheel, that last bolt is all I have left.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 25th, 2019 02:04 pm
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You can do it!
Sorry about your lip!

ouch



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 Posted: Sun Aug 25th, 2019 03:44 pm
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Coincidentally that same bolt location gave JAMMAN trouble on his white one and may have chipped his tooth when it seperated.

ORIGINALLY POSTED BY JAMMAN,

"So I did a pie cut.

Had a small flashlight in my mouth since I was in a hurry and needed both hands for the cutoff wheel.

When I got through the bolt the motor went "snap" and jumped up an inch and forward about 2.

Scared the crap out of me I think I jerked so hard I might have chipped a tooth with the flashlight.

Took the O sensor plugs off, and 2 plugs to the transmission. Motor STILL isn't out, the trans lines are attached somewhere under the passenger motor mount plate.

If I find that then the motor would come out, the TC stayed in everything looks fine.

I can't push it around till I fix the right rear brake drum...."

Last edited on Sun Aug 25th, 2019 03:47 pm by Eddie Money



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to avoid tooth chipping leave one of the bottom bolts in the bellhousing until all of the uppers are removed



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 Posted: Sun Aug 25th, 2019 06:04 pm
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I got the trans out, but I left the little shift lever in so that nothing falls inside the transmission but I left it in neutral and when I went to pull the transmission out it shifted into a gear because it hit the back of the hole, then it fell out once I got the transmission on the ground and it tipped over. So now I’ve gotta figure out what gear it was in. Also, there’s so many clips and wires that were connected to the transmission I’m not sure if I remember where they all went and how they were routed around the transmission, so that’ll be fun. I have help coming later, so now I’m about to tackle the clutch and stuff until he shows up. I chipped my tooth by pulling hard on the crossmember bolts and the ratchet slipped off and smacked me in the face lol.



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