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Uhh...help?
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 Posted: Fri May 10th, 2019 07:10 pm
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VelociRanger
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Soooooo I've been pretty busy lately on my truck, I cleaned the inside and got my battery recharged and also bought an alternator. To fix the original issue that was supposed to be the pcm was actually just a wiring harness under th dash above the clutch pedal that would vibrate loose. I've verified this by driving Lola and when the "thing" would happen I'd just reach under and push the harness in, and it fixed it. Buuuttttt, my alternator was bad so my battery died, so I proceeded to go to autozone to get it charged for free, and pick up an alternator. Weeeeeelllllllll I got the serpentine belt off and I 9nly actually removed the belt from the alternator, it's still on the other pullies. Last night I went to change it, but there seems to be an extra pulley in front of the top alternator bracket that isn't on the belt diagram on my truck, or online. After watching multiple videos of how people dealt with this problem, that pulley is non existant on their trucks. Here's a screen shot I got from a video, and the circle is where the extra pulley is. My "extra pulley" is on that little nub with threads. I failed to realize this when I was removing the belt, but again I only removed the belt from the alternator pulley. Should I remove the pulley altogether, or remove it and put it back on? I'll show a picture of mine later, but here's the screenshot:

Attachment: 20190510_140718.jpg (Downloaded 143 times)



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 Posted: Fri May 10th, 2019 07:31 pm
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JAMMAN

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What year and motor was it again? I can't remember everyone's trucks, not even mine!



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 Posted: Fri May 10th, 2019 09:01 pm
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Arthur
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I hopped outside and snapped 2 quick shots:





I have a '08 too but it's a 4.0
So the pulley is there and in use, belt goes under.
It's a "passive" pulley though.

If you didn't use it before your belt is probably going to be too short, and inversely.
It was probably in use but since the belt goes under it just fell down.

EDIT: Looking at the pictures side by side I think someone with a 2.3 needs to chime in, the mount  looks different on mine and lower unless it's the picture
Makes sense as it'S a different engine, silly me :whatever:

Last edited on Fri May 10th, 2019 09:10 pm by Arthur



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 Posted: Fri May 10th, 2019 09:52 pm
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VelociRanger
I procrastinate...a lot


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Mine is a 2008 2.3l with ac and a manual transmission



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 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2019 02:23 am
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Eddie Money
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I'm a little confused. If the sheave for the alternator lines up and you bought the same belt as before you should be fine. If the sheave on the alternator is different then you need the correct sheave on the new alternator. If you didnt have the passive before, you shouldnt need to add one.

Closest year I could find

Last edited on Sat May 11th, 2019 02:33 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2019 02:29 am
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VelociRanger
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I didn't buy a belt, I bought an alternator. There is a pulley that seems to be in the way of the top alternator bolt. I was wondering if this is an "extra" one that isn't used, and if so can I remove it? The videos I've seen of people replacing alternators do not have the pulley next to the alternator.









Last edited on Sat May 11th, 2019 02:33 am by VelociRanger



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 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2019 02:42 am
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Eddie Money
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Lol you beat me. At the 11min mark of the video I posted he put the belt on. You might be able to see what you need there. 

I see the extra pulley under the compressor, it's also the dotted line in the diagram. Not sure about the bolt. You were able to remove the original alternator without removing the pulley and bolt under the compressor? There may be more than one variation of the alternator housing. One may use the pulley n bolt to locate the alternator and one may bolt up without. 

I'm no expert I'm just trying to trouble shoot this with you. If I'm totally missing it or dont know enough to help, just ignore me.

Last edited on Sat May 11th, 2019 02:57 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2019 08:17 am
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Chris

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My guess is that the dotted pulley on the diagram is used if aircon is not fitted (with a different belt).

So maybe your truck had aircon retro fitted or the engine replaced with a non aircon unit and the original pulley was left in place.

I'd take it off...



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 Posted: Sat May 11th, 2019 06:30 pm
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Arthur
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I think you're right, this is from a 2.3 I found at the junkyard today. No ac.



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 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 02:43 am
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VelociRanger
I procrastinate...a lot


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Yeah that had to be what it was. I pulled the pulley off and kept it off. But, now we're at a no crank no start situation. Not the same problem as before where it's the PATS, because the odometer works now and the theft light isn't flashing. I have all power connected so idk what the problem is.



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 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 04:25 pm
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VelociRanger
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Here's what's happening now:

Good power, radio works and so do my lights. Check engine light flashes, anti theft light goes off so its not that now. I have no idea what it could be.



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 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 05:44 pm
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The check engine light flashing indicates there is a serious problem with your Truck. It's time to pull out the code reader.



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 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 06:16 pm
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VelociRanger
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Welp, son of a biscuit man. If it ain't one thing it's another :fp  :verymad



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 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 08:41 pm
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VelociRanger
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Well Tsquare, I got the code reader out annnddddd here's what happened, afterwards the truck still didn't crank over or even attempt to start. Also I apologize for the super annoying beeping the reader makes, I turned it off after the video.


Last edited on Sun May 12th, 2019 08:52 pm by VelociRanger



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 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 09:13 pm
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With your reader you might try Live Data while attempting to crank it up.

I use Torque with a blutooth reader and it has a Menu option of Show Pending Faults that has helped me in the past.But that doesn't help you.



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 Posted: Mon May 13th, 2019 12:56 am
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VelociRanger
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I did as you suggested, and recorded the live data as my brother was turning the key. Before I took the video I noticed a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area, I got the sound on the video but its gotta be turned up all the way. And don't mind me when I said sensor, I meant fuses lol. But my thinking is that one of those big fuses is shorting out or toast and that could explain the click, but then again I don't know much. 




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 Posted: Mon May 13th, 2019 06:00 pm
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VelociRanger
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Me thinks I figured it out. In the last video I posted I got what sounded like a clicking sound when my brother was turning the key, and it was coming from the fuse box. I opened the box, and listened and it sounded like one of the big fuses In the back corner. So, remembering that my owners manual has a layout of each fuse and what each one does, so i began to look there and sure enough, fuse 48 is the starter relay. When I get home I'm gonna move around a couple relays and see if it cranks, if it does I'll know for certain that it's that specific relay and try to find one. I looked up the part number last night, and I also read somewhere that it's 60 volt (amp?) Fuse and the only ones I found online are 40 and 20. I'm going to call Ford and see if they have one in stock.

Attachment: 20190512_235310.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)

Last edited on Mon May 13th, 2019 06:01 pm by VelociRanger



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 12:42 am
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Relays will click. From what I have seen I am no help.

Good Luck.



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 01:28 am
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VelociRanger
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Wellyou're the only person that's helped or at least tried to so thank you. I'm about to buy a gallon of gas and some matches and burn it to a crisp. Nothing worked. Still no crank. All fuses/relays good. Idk what else to try.



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 03:09 am
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Eddie Money
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VelociRanger wrote:
Wellyou're the only person that's helped or at least tried to so thank you. I'm about to buy a gallon of gas and some matches and burn it to a crisp. Nothing worked. Still no crank. All fuses/relays good. Idk what else to try.
Hey, theres been 4 others who tried to help



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 03:21 am
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VelociRanger
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Apologies, I say stupid things when I'm frustrated



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 03:52 am
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Eddie Money
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I'm just glad you havent given up. This will be a nice truck and it's a lot newer than a lot of the trucks other members are resurrecting.



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 03:54 am
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Eddie Money
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And I love the name you've given your truck so you're her only hope! You have to save her!

Last edited on Tue May 14th, 2019 03:55 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 07:28 am
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If the starter relay in the fuse box is working then the next thing to try is the starter motor itself - first check the heavy cable connection is tight and clean and if it still does not crank try giving the case of the starter motor a good whack with a hammer - it may just be stuck.



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 Posted: Tue May 14th, 2019 11:50 am
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You could also try and "jump" your starter motor, bypassing starter relay. That way you know your starter is working.
Your relay could click and still be bad.
(Is it clicking once or going back and forth?)



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