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RC 5in Lift Kit!
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 Posted: Wed Nov 28th, 2018 01:35 pm
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Hawk136439
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I don't know if any of you knew this was availible or when it became availible but I wanted to share something I found around thanksgiving.

Rough Country is making a 5in suspension lift for 98-11 4X4 rangers!!!!!

Don't believe me? click that link and check it out! and an additional plus is its cheaper than the superlift! ($999.95 at the time of posting)

They also offer a cv driveshaft too!

Sorry if this is old news but saw it on blackfriday for 800 and about sh!t my pants with excitement.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 28th, 2018 05:37 pm
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Yes sir finally competition for the Superlift
Back in the day I would not touch a rough country lift, ball joint spacers and all that junk....but they have really stepped up their game last 10 years or so
We have the RCX 6" drop bracket lift with cast spindles on my wifes 2007 FJ Cruiser, 35" tires, 4.56, ARB air locker....never an issue. The rough Country lift has been awesome.
One of the Forum vendors here on FR.com advertised this lift back in June, good price and very nice looking kit!

You can combine parts from this lift with some parts from BTF fabrication, ditch the torsion bars (coilover conversion) and really get a nice working 4x4 LONG TRAVEL suspension in the 98-11 ranger, 95-2001 Explorer, sport and sport trac.....the nice part is you can add parts as $$$$ allows....start with RC lift, then later uni ball UCA, then boxed long travel LCA with CV's and somewhere along the way ditch the factory torsion bar and shock setup and install some tabs, limiting straps,  and threaded bodies of your choice. I hear 600-800 lb spring rates work best in the ranger/explorer with the heavier trucks (4 door explorer, big bumpers, winch, etc) using the 800#. Rangers are good at 650-750 depending...

Drool drool, come on lottery!!

https://ford-rangers.com/view_topic.php?id=949&forum_id=41&highlight=rough+country

https://btffabrication.com/collections/ford-1

Last edited on Wed Nov 28th, 2018 05:43 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Wed Nov 28th, 2018 06:10 pm
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Dang I hadn't even thought about mix and matching LT parts!!! Well I guess now I can blame you for my up coming divorce haha



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 Posted: Thu Nov 29th, 2018 12:27 am
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LMFAO!!
Money pits I know the drill well!!!

Yeah basically the RC drop bracket lowers your differential and lower control arms
Then they supply taller knuckles to make up the height difference.
All the stock suspension geometry remains, except of course your front driveshaft has to go down lower, and the brake lines need to be longer. Otherwise just basically a lift

Lift is great for fitting larger tires
Larger tires gain traction and ground clearance, great for going off road
Now what about more travel?
Keeping the tires on the ground longer helps with traction and keeps you moving forward = further off road
To gain more travel you need width. Wider is better. Width = cheater travel. The further away the tire the more measurable wheel travel
The upper ball joint starts to run out of range of motion as does the CV axle
The factory torsion bar also starts to limit things
So in comes the uni ball upper control arm to eliminate the weak and limited upper ball joint
Then the long travel CV axles to accommodate the additional width
Weld in gussets and some tabs and you can ditch the torsion bar and instead support the truck with some threaded body shocks
Since you have lift bracket lowering the diff and lower control arms with such a tall spindle you have gained even more height for a taller coilover....... you can fit a much longer threaded body shock in the space with the lift brackets in place

As you can see on the BTF website, similar to Camburg and Dixon brothers before them, BTF has taken the Ranger IFS 4x4 to a whole new level.....
If I had the $$$$ I would build up a V8 sport trac and keep the IFS
Of course first the wife has her eyes on the similar long travel stuff for her Fj cruiser, only her yota already uses a coilover from the factory (currently Fox 8" threaded bodies with old man emu medium duty coil springs, 7" lift with the RCX kit)
I will get there eventually!

Last edited on Thu Nov 29th, 2018 12:38 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Thu May 2nd, 2019 11:58 am
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Too bad you absolutely need 17" wheels to clear the lifted knuckle. (And 12" brakes IIRC)
Was that the case with the Superlift?
Also it always seems like the rear-end is just an aftertought with just massive blocks and meh shocks.

It would be nice if they sold a "half" kit or "for coilover" with just the knuckles,diff- and transmission brackets, crossmember and driveshaft
Basically just omit the huge rear blocks, so so shocks and torsion drop brackets. (I don't really get where their rear crossmember goes?)

Last edited on Thu May 2nd, 2019 11:59 am by Arthur



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 Posted: Fri May 3rd, 2019 03:52 am
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The SuperLift Kit installed using everything that came with the Ranger.
My EDGE, ran 15" Rims and OEM Brakes.



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
Large Tube Rear Axle, 31 Spline - FX4, 4.56 Gears, OX Locked
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15" BFG ATs,
Hurst Shifter w/Longer Replacement Shift Handle with (Homemade) Mounting Adapter; 1.5" up x 1" back.
Backrack mod'd to fit Steppie, Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Jul 3rd, 2019 05:58 am
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Arthur wrote:
Too bad you absolutely need 17" wheels to clear the lifted knuckle. (And 12" brakes IIRC)
Was that the case with the Superlift?
Also it always seems like the rear-end is just an aftertought with just massive blocks and meh shocks.

It would be nice if they sold a "half" kit or "for coilover" with just the knuckles,diff- and transmission brackets, crossmember and driveshaft
Basically just omit the huge rear blocks, so so shocks and torsion drop brackets. (I don't really get where their rear crossmember goes?)

Can anyone verify bigger brakes are needed? I know rims must be 17" to clear but I dont know why bigger brakes are necessary



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 Posted: Wed Jul 3rd, 2019 02:44 pm
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410customs
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My stepson has 98 Ranger with the Superlift and 16" wheels just for the record. I have not found online why the RC lift requires 17" wheels I would do a search on some ranger forums......



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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 03:25 am
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Arthur wrote:
Too bad you absolutely need 17" wheels to clear the lifted knuckle. (And 12" brakes IIRC)
Was that the case with the Superlift?
Also it always seems like the rear-end is just an aftertought with just massive blocks and meh shocks.

It would be nice if they sold a "half" kit or "for coilover" with just the knuckles,diff- and transmission brackets, crossmember and driveshaft
Basically just omit the huge rear blocks, so so shocks and torsion drop brackets. (I don't really get where their rear crossmember goes?)

93-97 4" lift kit (2wd is same information) 

98+ 5" lift kit 

Neither one of those kits mention anything about larger wheels, let alone larger brakes and they seem to have the same information as the RC site does, often this site has more than manufacture sites on certain things like cross reference numbers.

The lift kit should have nothing to do with wheel size, offset perhaps, not diameter so much. And even then larger brakes? for what? a .50" diameter size difference in wheel circumference for clearance from the stock 16" wheels? Better brake pad material and some SS lines should be all you would need, not even slotted rotors are "necessary". Nice, but not needed.

The Wheel diameter increase is being sold to you on the premise you would need bigger brakes and for what? the extra 220lbs or less of brackets and heavier rear spring packs, and a 12" Rotor to boot? I'm gonna go ahead and just turn down the speaker on my BS meter here.
You wouldn't need to do that in order to throw a 120 lbs of groceries and dog food I can't fathom another 100lbs at such a low center of gravity would matter either.

Now, if you were thinking about trying to stuff 37"+ tires and still trying to touch 3 digit speed limits.. Okay, we wouldn't want your truck to have the same braking power and abilities as a 79' Pinto..!  Who ever stated that is either trying to sway you towards another product line and OR they're trying to up-sell you whether for or out of a sale for RC.

That's my opinion anyway until new information comes before me and can prove and justify otherwise. They're both good kits, I couldn't tell you one is totally better than the other unless there were known failures in either from the manufacturing aspect but both are LONG TIME respected companies.

I do second 410Customs suggestions of BTF UCA's and LCA's to convert the RC kit into a Long travel kit depending on what you want to use the truck for.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 11:11 am
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I was just stating what it says in big bold letters on RoughCountry's own page for this specific lift:

https://www.roughcountry.com/ford-suspension-lift-kit-43130.html?find=2008-ford-ranger-4wd-412373

Notes - Important
  • 17in or larger wheels are REQUIRED
  • Does NOT fit 11.25" rotors found on some 98-03 models
  • Models with 11.25" rotors must upgrade to 12.1" rotors
  • 98-99 models equipped with pulse vacuum hub (PVH) port routed through the knuckle will need to be converted to manual hubs.
  • An upgraded drive shaft is HIGHLY recommended, such as #5089.1
  • A torsion bar tool is required for installation, such as #1067
  • Specialty tools may be required for models equipped with vacuum operated hubs. (see instructions)

Also in the reviews someone talks about needing the 12 inch rotors (If it's a real review) and on the bottom in the Q&A section they answer that the 17 inch wheel is to clear the knuckle.

IF all that is just to sell us brakes and wheels on top of the lift, well that would say a lot about RC...


On 12deg North it says 285/70r17 is recommended.


It'd be great if you were right of course but this is what I'm trying to confirm.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 02:12 pm
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I agree with undrstm8td they often have to put these warnings in there for the "bulk" of their users. 
I am sure there is some reason why the 16" wheels they had would not work, but we have our ways around these things, wheels with different offset, clearance calipers and knuckles, etc etc

I have a customer who is about to buy a 5" lift kit and have me install it. I would be HAPPY to find out why the RC kit wont work with 16" wheels, my grinder says it will LOL
BUT I do not want to put my customer in that position.
I like putting myself in that position and I do it often, but not for my customers builds.

So we may have to use the Superlift this time because the goal is to keep his existing 16" wheels

My next questions (something I need to research asap) is can I buy just the knuckles and the drop brackets? 
I know I can buy just the knuckles, but the key is will they sell me just the drop brackets for the diff and control arms? 

If so then I would like to use just the knuckles and brackets and build my own lift using BTF uppers, coilovers, and do our own thing out back

Last edited on Thu Jul 4th, 2019 02:24 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 10:27 pm
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Undrstm8ed wrote:
Arthur wrote:

Too bad you absolutely need 17" wheels to clear the lifted knuckle. (And 12" brakes IIRC)
Was that the case with the Superlift?
Also it always seems like the rear-end is just an aftertought with just massive blocks and meh shocks.

It would be nice if they sold a "half" kit or "for coilover" with just the knuckles,diff- and transmission brackets, crossmember and driveshaft
Basically just omit the huge rear blocks, so so shocks and torsion drop brackets. (I don't really get where their rear crossmember goes?)

[url=https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/4in-ford-suspension-lift-kit-4wd][/url]The Wheel diameter increase is being sold to you on the premise you would need bigger brakes and for what? the extra 220lbs or less of brackets and heavier rear spring packs, and a 12" Rotor to boot? I'm gonna go ahead and just turn down the speaker on my BS meter here.
You wouldn't need to do that in order to throw a 120 lbs of groceries and dog food I can't fathom another 100lbs at such a low center of gravity would matter either.

12" is what is on a '08 4x4 though.

And 410customs that's pretty much what I've been looking into doing.

Last edited on Thu Jul 4th, 2019 10:31 pm by Arthur



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 Posted: Fri Jul 5th, 2019 08:44 am
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Arthur wrote:
I was just stating what it says in big bold letters on RoughCountry's own page for this specific lift:

https://www.roughcountry.com/ford-suspension-lift-kit-43130.html?find=2008-ford-ranger-4wd-412373

Notes - Important
  • 17in or larger wheels are REQUIRED
  • Does NOT fit 11.25" rotors found on some 98-03 models
  • Models with 11.25" rotors must upgrade to 12.1" rotors
  • 98-99 models equipped with pulse vacuum hub (PVH) port routed through the knuckle will need to be converted to manual hubs.
  • An upgraded drive shaft is HIGHLY recommended, such as #5089.1
  • A torsion bar tool is required for installation, such as #1067
  • Specialty tools may be required for models equipped with vacuum operated hubs. (see instructions)

Also in the reviews someone talks about needing the 12 inch rotors (If it's a real review) and on the bottom in the Q&A section they answer that the 17 inch wheel is to clear the knuckle.

IF all that is just to sell us brakes and wheels on top of the lift, well that would say a lot about RC...


On 12deg North it says 285/70r17 is recommended.


It'd be great if you were right of course but this is what I'm trying to confirm.

After seeing some conversation stirring of this, we wanted to chime in with confirmation of the 17" wheel as a necessary upgrade.  As Arthur has pointed out.

Notes - Important
  • 17in or larger wheels are REQUIRED
  • Does NOT fit 11.25" rotors found on some 98-03 models
  • Models with 11.25" rotors must upgrade to 12.1" rotors
  • 98-99 models equipped with pulse vacuum hub (PVH) port routed through the knuckle will need to be converted to manual hubs.
  • An upgraded drive shaft is HIGHLY recommended, such as #5089.1
  • A torsion bar tool is required for installation, such as #1067
  • Specialty tools may be required for models equipped with vacuum operated hubs. (see instructions)


Undr, luv your advocation of us but as much as you'll hate this, in this instance you are incorrect. It's okay, it happens, even for you ;) At the time of the release of the kit and our posting both here and on our own cart system, there was a few things NOT in the special notes at the time of adding it in our cart system as we pride ourselves of being verbatim of any and all information offered by the manufacture or more when possible.

We have updated our information under an easy identifier tab matching the manufactures labeled "NOTES - IMPORTANT" with the most current information on the kit itself so as to eliminate further confusion and correct any possible misinformation that may get circulated.


That being said.. Who thinks we should take advantage of Undrstm8ed and offer an additional 5% off Code for those still interested?



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This guy likes 5% off!!

I just wish we knew exactly WHY the RC kit will not clear the 16" wheels so we know if it can be defeated!!!
I have a customer who wants to keep his 16" wheels with the build so is considering buying the Stupidlift instead of the Rough Country lift simply to keep his wheels.

Last edited on Fri Jul 5th, 2019 03:41 pm by 410customs



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reading the comments section on the rough country website it clearly states several times that the 17" wheel is required to clear their knuckle. So it must have something to do with the casting of their knuckle.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 8th, 2019 07:23 pm
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410customs wrote:
reading the comments section on the rough country website it clearly states several times that the 17" wheel is required to clear their knuckle. So it must have something to do with the casting of their knuckle.
This is correct information, more than you'd want to take a 5" grinder to as well. ;)



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