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Looking at sub boxes       #: 1305
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 Posted: Mon Oct 1st, 2018 07:15 pm
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JAMMAN

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My latest project will have sound. You can do anything with an extended cab but options are few with standard cab.

Sub box standard cab 

I haven't done a "system" since the early days of mounting 2 X 12's in the back of my cougar and they fit in the rear deck.

I do know from research and listening to different peoples systems I like closed boxes better than ported, I don't listen to any rap at all just plain guitar oriented heavy rock and metal.

I can get that one carpet matched and with 2 X 8" holes or 2 X 10" holes. 10's normally would be the choice but the cubic feet inside makes me think 8".

I built a set of floor speakers back in school, and really liked the sound better after I stuffed them. I used regular pink panther house insulation and itched for weeks but it made the sound more "precise"

Since I won't get to hear it before I set it up, my thoughts were 8" with stuffing, I don't need really really loud so was thinking like 300/400 watts and if I need more I'll just add another amp.

So is my thinking correct on the size per the limited cubes, and how about the stuffing thing? Some people don't notice the diff but I hear more definition or did at least on the cabinets I built when I was a youngster.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 1st, 2018 09:09 pm
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black06xlt
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Amazon. I had a 12 in my 92 (the slut) slim truck box fit great behind the seat. With yours being a newer the cab is a little deeper behind the seat so you should have plenty of room



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 Posted: Mon Oct 1st, 2018 09:12 pm
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black06xlt
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If I had to another sub in a regular cab I would this route. A powered sub. Amp sub and box all in one. Frees up that much more space



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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 05:39 am
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black06xlt wrote:

If I had to another sub in a regular cab I would this route. A powered sub. Amp sub and box all in one. Frees up that much more space

Problems are service issues, heat (worse for some than others, Ohio not so much, South West or West coast yes)... If the amp goes bad, and it being stuffed behind the seat it can or will with a lack of air circulation.

I know there's a lot of people who think that the cost of Car Audio has come down and thats why you find all these ridiculously low cost options with FREE shipping to boot but I am here to remind you that just that much more " " has hit the market place.. No really. And if its free shipping, I can almost guarantee you its coming from across the pond, your just giving your currency to China all day and everyday.

Even if you take a Kenwood, Pioneer, or Alpine deck from next week in build quality alone and compared it to what those 3 big box store/companies put out 20 years ago, you'd swear the new   was made by Mattel. People get geeked up about fancy lighting and useless features they wont even or can't use.

Just like Apple.. Apple is actually run unfortunately but despicable but lucrative geniuses... Who else in a company can up the cost of their newest version of the same phone $200, take away the home button dongle and the Audio jack and make you buy it as such afterwards? Spending further more money?

I'm going out on a limb here But I'd have to say if you even have access to 1 of the 3 options: Router table, Table saw, or even a jigsaw. You could make your own custom box, pick up a single 8" or 10" and throw it in a sealed box all day. If you wanna keep costs down, research a sub that can use a smaller footprint but moderate amount of space. reason being is because you're going to get good sound by either utilizing the right speaker in the right box with SOME airspace needs OR you're gonna spend more money buying a more powerful amplifier. So its either volume to make good sound or power - pick a direction. You can do a crap load of good with a decent to good quality 4ch amp and staying under 250w total system power.

Id go the direction of the 8", keep the box sealed just because acoustically its the most correct sounding Sound Q wise and still can cover a decent range of frequencies. What you listen to matters not, its how you tune it. If you're a rock guy, the 8" size will be punchier if you will and really drive that midbass some of us appreciate with that music even better. Xross the sub off at 100hz, bring your full range Xover down to 70-80hz. You'll get a really nice over lap and a +3 DB gain in the 70-100 frequency bands.  If you use a 10" its going to use/need more real estate and you may not wanna give that up.

From there choose a decent 2 way coaxial speaker for the front doors to keep it simple or spend some time to make a plate and mount a 5-6" mid and a separate tweeter to compliment it. Depends on if you just want rocking loud or if you're really going to spend the time appreciating the level of separation and detail in the sound stage and imaging our square ass interiors give us.

Just like anything, if you pay attention to the details you can do more with less and enjoy it more and longer.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 06:48 am
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JAMMAN

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I'd love to design a custom box but it might take the slot of time I use to wipe my butt.

I hear you on useless features, rotating color LED's, you really can't get just a decent head any more everything has fluff because that is the direction.

Adam I appreciate the amazon link but that one looks "too cool" for the scenario I'm trying to create. I want a carpet match too and I have a lighter interior.

James I understand crossovers and I feel that is really the key to decent sound, plus having the "right" tweeter.. I dislike about anything I have heard on "coaxial" or "triaxial" speakers, it is like a little token silver blob meant to appease the unknowing.

Has anyone been disappointed with the sound quality of blue tooth even if the MP3 was ripped at 320? I have a few 320 ripped songs on a USB stick and they sound awesome but the exact same file played through Bluetooth sounds like it is missing all the outside edges on all frequencies? Mayb that is just me.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 05:17 pm
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I have two tweeters either side of the dash for sparkle and woofers in the back panel of the MGB using the boot (trunk) as the sound box - awesome sound .... I play music off my phone via bluetooth to the head unit (Phillips) and it is just fine .



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 Posted: Wed Oct 3rd, 2018 02:52 am
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JAMMAN wrote:
I'd love to design a custom box but it might take the slot of time I use to wipe my butt.

I hear you on useless features, rotating color LED's, you really can't get just a decent head any more everything has fluff because that is the direction.

Adam I appreciate the amazon link but that one looks "too cool" for the scenario I'm trying to create. I want a carpet match too and I have a lighter interior.

James I understand crossovers and I feel that is really the key to decent sound, plus having the "right" tweeter.. I dislike about anything I have heard on "coaxial" or "triaxial" speakers, it is like a little token silver blob meant to appease the unknowing.

Has anyone been disappointed with the sound quality of blue tooth even if the MP3 was ripped at 320? I have a few 320 ripped songs on a USB stick and they sound awesome but the exact same file played through Bluetooth sounds like it is missing all the outside edges on all frequencies? Mayb that is just me.

How much ass do you have to wipe (o.O) ?!  lol

In the competition level systems I had a hand in building/tuning, I have always had a combination of both hard and soft dome tweeters most times and amazingly enough in all aspects of wiring them out of phase, swapping positions between hard/soft dome, and the overall intent of where the system was to be a competitor at. Obviously far more than what may be needed in this case but just the story behind it, I've played with everything from wave-guides to aperatic membranes. There was one vehicle, an 89' Limited edition Firebird that between the dash and front doors was a 16 speaker setup all separate drivers/x-overs. Ya, I'll let you imagine where that was all tucked in at with the hint that there was only a single 6" and a pair of tweets in each custom and retro fitted door.

There was a 6" and tweet for rear fill and four 10's in an push-pull isobaric loaded enclosure.. Phil Collins didnt sound THAT good live in concert.. (facetious but borders truth).

I just mentioned the use of coaxial under the threat of budget concerns.. unless I am forced into using them for rear fill, not a fan, and my system designs often become not cost effective friendly for many.

And I agree with the Bluetooth scenario.. I don't know if you would agree with my description but it sounds as if the music is too compressed and in an extreme overhead arc if you will.. Maybe the angles of that arc are what you describe as the fringed frequencies (?). I noticed it most going from a direct input on a high quality but low voltage RCA and then going to a Bluetooth connection straight into the Audio Control EQX piece.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 01:55 pm
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JAMMAN

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I found a dude on the interwebz that had designed one. It was cheaper than the time I would spend finding my tape rule so I bought his plans.

I'm going to buy enough MDF to make 2 and leave one raw. The other will be carpeted same color as the floor I am buying from that aardvark place.

I have not seen the quality of their product yet but their service is excellent I sent one e-mail and got a hand full of sample colors.

http://www.varkmotors.com/  free advertising for the Vark people LOL



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 Posted: Sun Jul 28th, 2019 02:35 pm
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JAMMAN

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WELL I compromised thanks to Craigs list.

I ended up getting a JL audio powerwedge for almost nothing. It was an old model so it had medium gray carpet.

Single 10. Box is non ported and stuffed with white fuzz.

Only thing I don't like is the sub itself, someone put one of those sony explods in there. I hear they are crap.

I can yank it and sell it for more than I paid for the entire setup. I'm looking at the pioneer TS-SW2502S4. It is shallow mount and the reviews are awesome.

Now I need to find an amp LOL. I have one for the head just nothing for the sub. Not going crazy, maybe around a real 300W RMS none of that million watt max advertising.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 31st, 2019 02:27 am
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If I could again make a suggestion as a minimalist and a quality aspect...

ACM-1.300 MONOBLOCK MICRO AMPLIFIER 300 watts @ 2 ohms, 175 watts @ 4 ohms $249.00

More than enough for a Ranger. the more efficient the enclosure obviously the better but I wouldn't suggest it if I wouldn't or hadn't been using the products for decades (Audio-Control products). It's a product that has an active crossover built in, its easy to setup and tune, cost effective (IMO) for multiple reasons and it'll last you for years, on top of being small enough to carry in your back pocket if you wanted to prove it could be done. lol Overall I like the simplicity of it aesthetically and the specs are beyond decent.

I've had to reconsider my own designs because of space constraints and the use of multiple components so my choice of using the 5ch ARC amplifier which is about $700 plus wanting to use a DSP, a whole other separate unit with added cost of another $550. I've saved money and put my funds towards a Audio Control D-6.1200 6ch amp with DSP processor with Bluetooth module added so I can remove the Bluetooth module I added into the truck and use it for something else. Plus with use of the DSP, I can now sell off my EQX, 2XS, and EQL now and save room and put a few dollars back into my pocket.

But check it out, see what you think.

.



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Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 31st, 2019 10:09 am
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JAMMAN

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Dang that is small, looking for comparisons to other monoblock amps.

From the video though, looks like all class D's are not created equal :)



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 Posted: Thu Aug 1st, 2019 01:04 pm
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OK let's say my head doesn't have a sub output. Has front and rear RCA outs. The rear is marked "R/SW" which to me means you can either have rear speakers or a sub.

So if I run 4 speakers it looks like I need a 5 channel amp in order to use the sub with 4 other speakers OR is there some sort of fancy splitter for this situation?

OR do I bridge the front amp and only run fronts and the sub?



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 Posted: Fri Aug 2nd, 2019 10:18 am
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JAMMAN

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Looks like even 5 channel amps require a sub input for the 5th channel dang.

So until I upgrade the head, I'm 2 front speakers and a sub. Life is still good I guess.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 2nd, 2019 10:50 am
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5 channel amps may have an input for the sub RCA but you can also usually use the 1-2 or 3-4 inputs for the sub (front or rear) there is usually a switch...

I am a big fan of the new bluetooth amps and or head units, we do not need a full DIN or double DIN head unit anymore, most people just want to use their phone = free up dash space for gauges or a phone mount, even better a tablet! LOL



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 Posted: Tue Oct 29th, 2019 11:53 am
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JAMMAN wrote:
I ended up getting a JL audio powerwedge for almost nothing. It was an old model so it had medium gray carpet.

Single 10. Box is non ported and stuffed with white fuzz.

Only thing I don't like is the sub itself, someone put one of those sony explods in there. I hear they are crap.


Saga continues as always with me. This cabinet fit perfectly. Before I installed the shorty console. I can't get it in there now. Back to custom using the MDF board I bought. If I ever end up doing it I'll make sure to clearly document it.

Maybe I'll give the powerwedge to Jr for his extended cab.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 29th, 2019 04:56 pm
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What about the ol bazooka style sub? Dont they still make them. Pretty compact if I remember.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 29th, 2019 06:13 pm
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Single cab bro.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 3rd, 2019 11:42 am
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I am running an OEM NOS Pioneer 6-CD changer head with an OEM 110 watt sub amp from a 2001 Mountaineer. The sub itself was shot, so I bought a Boss Audio 8" and mounted it in the Mountaineer sub enclosure. I have the sub pointing down and just sitting on the floor behind the seats using four 2"x2"x4" legs to keep it up level and the right height. I installed two Kicker 6x8s in the doors that I got from the salvage yard and have the factory 6x8s in the back. Totally NOT planned out, just thrown together. Funny thing is; it sounds amazing.

I guess what I'm saying is: don't over-think this...



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 Posted: Sun Nov 3rd, 2019 12:14 pm
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My middle mane. Over Thinker. Yup me



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 Posted: Tue Jan 7th, 2020 11:36 am
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Jamman,

Hows this going ?

Did you get the system together ?

I'm in the Audio System Mode so I am looking again for info.

Good Luck if you haven't already installed it !

Later



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 Posted: Wed Jan 8th, 2020 07:25 pm
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Nope! And the door speakers I put in are a little lacking and the amp makes noise all in all going to wait till I can invest.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 8th, 2020 08:37 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Nope! And the door speakers I put in are a little lacking and the amp makes noise all in all going to wait till I can invest.
Sorry to hear that !
Funny how the INVEST word seems to apply on Truck Stereo Systems.
Prices are going up and up, so INVEST sooner than later.

I bit the bullet, ordered the iLX-207 Alpine Head Unit (wanted the Apple Car Play), and needed accessories, but hoping for the end to be better than the remorse I feel from ordering !

Hope all turns out ok and you get your system soon.

The 1st post is for an Enclosure... did you find that ?

Last edited on Wed Jan 8th, 2020 09:17 pm by Scrambler82



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