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Ticking when accelerating?       #: 896
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 05:22 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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 I can honestly say I've had this since I have owned the truck but wondering what it means...

When I am accelerating and have moderate throttle I hear what sounds like a ticking sound from the right of the engine when in the cabin.  Almost sounds like card that is stuck in a bike spoke, it's a contestant clicking noise as I accelerate but then goes away when I am just cruising.  It doesn't happen down low or when the truck is idling.  Only when I am say accelerating up a hill or moderate throttle.

What could this be?  I have no CEL, no pending CELs.  No dash lights, nothing flashing nothing out of the norm, and again to my knowledge been at least 6 years of this...  I was doing some research and heard that our engines are tingy here and there.  I had a clicking noise in the beginning when I started the truck but that was the intake runners flapping back and forth because it was old.  Once replaced the intake manifold that went away.

I run 5w30 oil as I've read that thicker oil might fix it but still there.  Not sure if I am lacking on power but the 2.3L isn't fast anyways.  It's a slow truck but does get me up to highway speeds. 

Previous maintenance done in the past.  New spark plug wires, spark plugs, ignition coil, oil changes, cleaned throttle body..etc.

Figured I'd ask.

-Nigel

Last edited on Wed May 30th, 2018 05:23 pm by NewShockerGuy



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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 06:08 pm
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john112deere
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 Right side of the engine is the exhaust manifold on a 2.3, right?
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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 06:43 pm
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 Sounds to me like you have an exhaust leak.



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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 07:15 pm
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 Yup I 3rd the motion. Depending on how warped the manifold is a new gasket might not seal it. That's the easiest thing to try, a new gasket but if it starts doing it again after a short amount of time I would take the manifold off and have it milled.

I have done that more than once I've seen them warped more than .06 on a V8. Which is half a 4 cyl LOL.



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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 07:25 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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 Arg... that would be a pita I'm sure to do since I can only imagine the bolts are super rusty... makes me wonder. But that does not make sense!

Would that cause a loss of power and or am I just so used to it that changing it would be like wow, different machine?

Is it better just to buy a new exhaust manifold and gasket rather than replacing the gasket? Also would I have to completely remove the entire exhaust in order to remove just the manifold off the side of the engine?

Thanks,
-Nigel



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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 08:27 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Ugh if you are experiencing loss of power then an exhaust gasket goes it is greatly indicative of clogged catalytic converters.

And no to buying a new one, have the old one re surfaced. It is metal therefore it has moved. At this age it has moved as much as it is going to and after surfacing it is doubtful if it will move again.



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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 08:35 pm
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 You can remove the entire exhaust from the manifold with 2 or 3 bolts usually but besides how cool the outside of your truck looks I forgot one important detail... what year is it and what is the motor? You don't have it in your sig or profile.



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 Posted: Wed May 30th, 2018 08:46 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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 I wouldn't say loss of power per say...I probably worded that wrong. It's just slow getting up to speed. It's fine once on high ways and maintaining speed...but I have 2.3l and it's an auto, plus have 31" tires.

Gotta add this to my Sig once I get back on a pc. 2001 2.3l xlt with 4:10 rear end.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 09:03 am
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 flashlight and truck running start looking for the tick, usually you will see a sport where black soot has been shooting out for some time, that's the leak



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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 09:11 am
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 With me it was close to a spark plug wire, which burned through and caused a horrible miss with multiple codes.

But I got a perfectly good truck for 500 bucks than needed a spark plug wire and an exhaust gasket, my son is still driving it almost 2 years later.



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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 04:29 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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 Had this entire thing typed up and it crapped out on me...arg.

Try again.

Looks like when I was poking around last night that a bolt/nut appears to be backed off.  I took a few pictures of it and then of another bolt/nut that isn't backed off.  I am suspecting that this might be the cause?  Not 100% sure.

Looks like a total PITA to get to these bolts and or remove the exhaust manifold... arg.  I foresee removing the ac compressor, condenser and some other crap which sucks.  Not sure if there is an easier way around it.  My other fear is that the bolts are completely rusted/seized and no matter how much kroil I am spraying on the ones I can see I think they are still going to be a problem...arg.

I noticed on rock auto that there are two different gaskets, one with a slight heatshield while another one doesn't have it..  They both are recommended but not sure which one would be best for my application.

I've taken a couple pics below.  You can see one nut is backed out somewhat... compared to the other.  



-Nigel



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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 08:50 pm
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 Looks like it is backed out, however do all the manifold nuts tighten down to expose the same amount of threads on the studs? A wrench will tell the story. Yes, total PIA to deal with.
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 Posted: Fri Jun 1st, 2018 03:58 pm
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 Found the ticking... it is below the exhaust manifold.  It's the part that joins the rest of the exhaust.  It's held by two bolts.  Is there a gasket for this?

I've circled it in red on where I hear the ticking and feel the air flow coming out.,  Right out the side.

-Nigel

Attachment: manifold.jpg (Downloaded 21 times)



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 Posted: Fri Jun 1st, 2018 04:08 pm
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 Nope no gasket there. Hows the flange that attaches to it, is it all rusted out? It's like a thin piece of sheet metal. I have one in the back I'll take a pic hang on



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2018 06:36 am
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NewShockerGuy
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 I checked out that piece and it was not rusted or anything like that.  I think perhaps it got a tad loose?  No clue.  Seems really weird they don't have a doughnut gasket in between those to piece of pipe.  I undid the two bolts... took about two days worth of spraying kroil and an impact on the lower bolt, top bolt wasn't too bad.  Checked all the way around and didn't see any holes.  Ended up putting some exhaust sealant on the flanged part then put the two pieces back together and bolted it down tight.  I don't hear a ticking anymore..  I didn't drive in with the truck today so when I go to the gym after work I will take it and see what happens.

Just for giggles I started the truck up without that piece connected and man was it loud.  Sounded ridiculous...lol

-Nigel



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2018 06:43 am
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 Isn't it strange with all the bolts on our trucks that rust and usually break that the ones directly connected to the manifold seem cooperative? I have found the same thing, though I routinely apply heat to the studs just as a precaution. I have done probably 6 over the past 2 or 3 years have not broke one.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2018 09:39 am
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 O break those damn bolts all the time
Then when the manifold is out of the truck we heat the manifold with a torch (break the rust seal) and the broken bolts will thread out easy. Chase all the threads and all is well

If you have a difficult ball flange that wont seal up even with it set evenly and the bolt tight evenly, then you can add a gasket. There is a metal ring/exhaust gasket for a Chevy truck that fits in there perfectly and will help the seal. The silicon stuff will only last a few heat cycles before it blows out.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2018 01:35 pm
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NewShockerGuy
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 410customs wrote:
O break those damn bolts all the time
Then when the manifold is out of the truck we heat the manifold with a torch (break the rust seal) and the broken bolts will thread out easy. Chase all the threads and all is well

If you have a difficult ball flange that wont seal up even with it set evenly and the bolt tight evenly, then you can add a gasket. There is a metal ring/exhaust gasket for a Chevy truck that fits in there perfectly and will help the seal. The silicon stuff will only last a few heat cycles before it blows out.




You don't have a part number for the chevy seal by chance?  I ask only because I wouldn't even know what year/model would fit on our little ranger.


Thanks,
-Nigel

Last edited on Mon Jun 4th, 2018 01:35 pm by NewShockerGuy



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 Posted: Tue Jun 5th, 2018 06:28 am
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NewShockerGuy
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 Welp, drove to work today, about 45 minute drive. Didn't hear the ticking at all. I did smell some tar type material and I believe that's the gasket sealer I used around the pipe... which will probably just burn away, but I think re-securing the pipe helped because I don't hear or feel air coming out of the side of the exhaust. Seems so weird to drive and not hear the clicking after all these years...lol whoops!

-Nigel



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 Posted: Tue Jun 5th, 2018 09:23 am
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 I have some of those donut rings downstairs on the tool box I will get the part number for you



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