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What did you do to your Ranger today?       #: 49
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 Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2020 04:07 pm
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I pulled my bed off last week because the POS O'Reilly's fuel pump crapped out on me. I didn't bother cashing in the lifetime warranty on it as it didn't last as long as the original. I got the Rock Auto best seller for the premium part pump. I also got new bed bolts and the closeout $9 shocks.  I swapped out the fuel pump last Thursday morning in about 20 minutes. The frame and spare tire carrier look like I painted it last week instead of 4 years ago.
I went out of town for a few days and got back last night. I changed out the shocks this afternoon. I replaced them the last time I did the fuel pump. They were shot. I broke the bolt removing the shock on the muffler side. I got a set of M12 bolts from Lowes. When I went to tighten them none of my metric sockets would fit, the bolt head and nut were 3/4". WTF? I pulled out the micrometer and it is a M12 shaft with a metric pitch but both the nut and bolt head measured 3/4". The shocks are on.
I pulled the wiring harness off the bed and zip tied the lights to the top of the rear bumper. I am street legal so I can drive it to work in the mornings. I will be starting a new thread tomorrow evening to chronicle the driveway paint job I am planning over the next week or so.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2020 08:13 am
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I have run into the same oddities with hardware from Lowe's.  I quit going to Lowe's many years ago because they are just more expensive than Home Depot or Menards (Menards is my go-to with Home Depot as my backup).



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2020 11:24 am
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No Menards down here. Lowes is 3 miles from the house and Home Depot is 9 with prices similar before discounts. I have a contractor account with Lowes and they let me also use a 10% Military discount. The contractor pricing usually only works with Millright products and anything bought in bulk.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2020 11:56 am
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Makes sense since you get discounts and it's much closer.  I am just a common DIYer, so I get no special discounts.  Although, since the COVID-19 thing, Menards has been doing their 11% off everything promotion non-stop since March.  That made the kitchen renovation I'm doing right now MUCH cheaper.   :-)



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2020 03:39 pm
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Back in 2003 I started a business where I got the contractor account. Lowes has never asked for any updated business license and has kept me on the contractor account.  

I went under in less than a year because I spent more time harassing my cheap customers to pay what they owed me than I did working. I only started chasing them down when they hit the 90 day columnAll of them were doctors except for one lawyer who filed a restraining order on me. I saw him in small claims court. The judge ripped him a new one. At one Dr's office where they were into me for almost $5k and they had a new office manager. She cut me a check which I immediately cashed. I later found out the Dr fired her over that.  I vowed I would never work for a doctor again - they are cheap bastards that do not like to pay their bills.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2020 04:52 pm
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mhoward
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Yeah, but let THEM send you a bill for THEIR services...



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Oct 17th, 2020 11:47 pm
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I fixed the electrical problem with the blinkers. It took about an hour to find the two wires that had the insulation compromised where they grounded out. Everything is now coated in electrical tape and insulation. 

I also sanded the bed and fixed a few dings. The bed is prepped for paint. I had a neighbor working on his yard up wind and we had 10-15 mph winds today. I will continue prepping for paint and once I have the "perfect" conditions I will shoot what I have prepped and the bed. I need 50-70 degrees, no chance of rain, and little to no wind. The forecast has tomorrow afternoon and Monday mid-day as optimal times. I will not have the cab, hood, and fenders ready without another 5-9  hours of work. It will also take about 2-3 hour to tape it up. I want this complete by next weekend.

BTW: I blew my budget I hope I don't blow the timeline.

Reason for edit: Opera doesn't like this Forum.

Last edited on Sat Oct 17th, 2020 11:49 pm by Tsquare



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 Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2020 01:23 am
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Neighbor working in his yard can kill an otherwise great paint job.  Have a talk with him and coordinate with him and mother nature!



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2020 03:40 am
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Wind was my biggest adversary with my paint project. The problem was we couldnt prep till the morning. The temps were good and it was calm but by the time everything was degreased, dried and masked the sun would warm the air and the wind would start ripping.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2020 09:49 am
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I followed a LONG thread about a Ranger 5.0 Project.  This guy went waaaay beyond on everything he did and this truck was amazing.  But the one thing that blew my mind was that he painted the perfect body with Tuxedo Black pearl OUTSIDE.  Proves it CAN be done, but luck and mother nature have to be on your side.  I think the guy was in Florida, which can be problematic because of the humidity.



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2020 01:26 pm
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I did fix my turn signal problem. I had 3 wires that had pealed/wore the insulating covering off. When the harness was laying on the spare tire holder they would ground if I used a turn signal. It looks like they have been that way for a while but had nothing to ground to when they were installed on the bed.  That section was missing the wire lume covering for about 8". It is covered now.

And it is windy again today and is forecast all week long. The bed is ready to paint. The rear bumper is ready to paint. I will get the rear of the truck ready this afternoon and shoot it if possible. Then I can put the bed back on. The wife is going to visit my daughter Thursday and will be back Monday. I may turn half of the garage into a paint booth while she is gone. I will prep as much as I can to get it ready for paint. I would rather shoot the entire truck at once for the final coat.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2020 03:24 pm
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Finished my front bumper job, took the J hooks off because they wouldn't fit without modding the valence.

Included the new fog light lenses to compliment the new headlight lenses. Stock bulbs in headlights to be nice and very bright LED's in the new fogs.

Driver side plug for fogs was worn through the wire, I snipped one from one of the donors and spliced it in.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 18th, 2020 08:57 pm
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What did I do to my Ranger? Nothing. I had a buddy call in for help with a blown engine about an hour away. I moonlight as a wrecker drive.  My buddy's F150 had a piston go through his oil pan. He was at an Octoberfest event in Helen GA when the F150 crapped out.  I dumped his '02 F150 4x4 4.6 L in his driveway. He is looking for a 5.4 or a 4.6 replacement for his 200+ K mile F150. He is now riding his 06 Elecrtaglide  as his daily driver.
My Sunday shot.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2020 03:55 pm
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I replaced the r/s rear door for the second time because they rotted at the bottom.




Also painted the sides & the center of the hood.




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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2020 07:32 pm
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I have the passenger side cab corner rotting out. Maybe when spring comes and the kitchen renovation is done, I can take care of that.



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Oct 24th, 2020 09:10 pm
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I cleaned up the driver's side door and left fender to prep for paint. It has been 76 degrees since 10 am and overcast. Too hot for my paint. At 5 pm it started raining. I will need to remove all of the masked off tape/paper and re-prep it once I get it in the garage tomorrow. I may have to re-sand a spot or two that may develop surface rust - better yet primer one it is rust free and dry.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 09:03 am
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76 degrees is too hot?



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 12:48 pm
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mhoward wrote:
76 degrees is too hot?
The reducer has a window of 55 to 70 degrees. If it is too cool there is problems with the spray pattern - globing. If it is too warm it will cat-eye. I can go buy another $67 can of reducer for 70 to 85 degrees but I am a cheap SOB. I will wait a week on weather.

When  I put down the first coat on the bed it was 68 and I was getting some cat-eyes. That is why I tried to paint a heavier coat and got runs. I should have added a little more reducer and that would have helped but the color would change slightly. The formula is 8 parts paint, 2 parts reducer, and 1 part hardener and I am using an old shot glass as my measure. I need to get the paint shaken before I mix up another batch as the metal flake will settle in 4 or 5 days. I am waiting for 60 to 65 degrees to lay down a coat, 6 hours later to lay a second, and within 16 to 18 hours to lay down the final coat which should be of the entire outside with a double batch of mixed paint.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 02:58 pm
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Mike69, probably a subject for another thread but I notice your bumper and valence are still 2000 though you changed the upper assembly.

How did you get the J hooks to fit, did you cut the plastic on the valence?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I finished the wiper motor swap and put a front seat in my steppie.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 04:17 pm
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@Tony: Okay, I understand what you are saying now.  I thought you meant it was just too hot to spray paint.  PERIOD.  LOL  Back in the 1970s when I had my body shop, I always had slow, medium and fast reducers so outside temp was never an issue, just use the appropriate reducer for the conditions and git 'er dun!  Obviously, you aren't in a body shop with everything at your disposal.  Back in the 70s, reducer was $10 or $12 a gallon, so the $67 sounded ridiculous at first; then it was like: oh yeah...

As for the fish eye; they make an additive to put in the paint that will stop that.  Pro tip: more paint is never the solution to a problem. :-)



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2020 05:11 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Mike69, probably a subject for another thread but I notice your bumper and valence are still 2000 though you changed the upper assembly.

How did you get the J hooks to fit, did you cut the plastic on the valence?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I finished the wiper motor swap and put a front seat in my steppie.

Jim, I had taken the bumper & valance off to install the FX/4 tow hooks because I had to replace the lower valance. I had originally cut the lower valance  but it looked terrible with it cut so after I replaced the lower valance I just pushed down on the valance so it would go under the tow hooks.





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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2020 06:27 am
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Mike, there must be something horribly wrong with the placement of mine because there was no room at all. It was so bad I had to stop installing the valence and remove the hooks. I'll try again next time I'm in that area I still have an AC condenser to install. Thank you!



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2020 03:31 pm
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At the first of the week I noticed my driver side rear blinker was out. The bulb was only sold in a 2 pack. I replaced both sides. I did an operational check and found I did not have brake lights.  Both the 2 amp and 5 amp fuses for the brake switch and controller are good. I check the wiring harness that I had taped up for continuity. No issues. 

I did the internet search for a wiring diagram. I find block diagrams for the tail lights. I finally found a wiring diagram that has the wire colors in a post at the Ranger Station. In the notes they mention the fuse of the third brake light. What? The third light is not in any of the diagrams or schematics. It is a 20 amp fuse and is blown. It all works now.

Last edited on Thu Oct 29th, 2020 03:32 pm by Tsquare



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2020 03:40 pm
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Which fuse number is it?  My digital owners manual doesn't even list a third brake light fuse.  Glad you got it sorted, though.



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2020 08:42 pm
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Fuse #19 (20 amp) the fuse that powers the high mounted 3rd stop light. If the Gay Electron blows it  you will also loose your brake lights.



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