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Weird parking brake issue       #: 1904
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 07:40 am
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NewShockerGuy
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Have more of a general question before I go out and buy another parking brake assembly for inside of the cabin.

I noticed this now for the last couple days.  When I disengage the parking brake the light still stays on.  Then after a couple seconds with engaging/disengaging the brake/lever it went off.  Figured it was the little switch attached and was going to replace it.

However after more trouble shooting I am realized it's not the switch at all.

Parking brake engages and holds truck perfectly fine.  When I pull the lever towards me to disengage the parking brake, it releases and the pedal flies up to engage the parking switch to shut the light off the dash, however what is happening is that once I release the lever the pedal "slightly" it doesn't really touch the switch...maybe by 2-3mm.  I have to hold the release lever, then slightly pull up on the parking brake pedal and then the pedal stays in that position.  Which makes me wonder why?  I know there are rachets/teeth on the parking pedal assembly so something isn't being fully released in the sense that the lever is pulled and the pedal comes all the way up.

I hope that is making sense.  The rear brakes are not dragging and there is zero issues engaging the parking brake.  Just when the lever is pulled and released the pedal flies up but then I have to pull the lever out and slightly pull up on the pedal for it to "stay" in that last position of it depressing the brake pedal switch.

The cables don't appear to be stretched or broken in any way on the bottom of the truck.  Problem seems directly related to lever/pedal/ratchet/gear teeth type thing on the actual parking brake pedal assembly.

I can make a video when I get home later if it helps.

This is just slightly annoying..lol.  If I stuck something on the brake lever switch IE:  A small 2mm piece of cardboard the light would shut off without pulling the lever back but I feel like something is worn preventing the pedal from coming all the way up.  I will note that if I pull the pedal UP after it's been released it doesn't move, ONLY when I hold the release lever am I able to pull the brake pedal up that 3mm to make contact with the switch and the pedal doesn't automatically drop or go from not touching the switch.

Thanks,
-Nigel



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 08:12 am
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I had one that did it too, the only standard I have owned lately in my array of Rangers.

It is because of "use", the return spring literally gives up the fight. I'm not sure it has been a few years but if I remember correctly this spring is a torsion style and cannot be easily replaced, best to get the pedal assembly off a ranger or expo with an "automatic" because chances are it has only been depressed once during factory setup.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 08:14 am
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mhoward
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Good to see you again, Nigel!  Not sure about your truck, but my parking brake assembly is very rusty (Ford has an aversion to paint) and, until I blew it out with compressed air, was full of dust and lint.  Before I would replace anything, I would remove it and give it a good cleaning and lubrication.  Obviously, there is at least one spring in the mechanism and that could possibly be getting weak, so check that as well.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 08:57 am
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I had the exact same problem on my '08.
Pedal would come up fine but stop a few mm short of the little switch.
Pull the handle and pull up the pedal with my toes and it would go the rest of the way.

Then the spring broke... pedal all the way to the floor and doesn't come up...

It's a spiral kind of spring and very hard if not impossible to change in place.
Pedal assembly has to come out so might aswell change it instead.

Even then disconnecting the cable from the old and reattaching to the new is a PITA.

Last edited on Thu Jan 30th, 2020 08:58 am by Arthur



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 09:00 am
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I've got one off a 99 explorer but shipping cost would not be kind.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 09:00 am
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Was yours all rusty too?  It's like Ford didn't paint most of the assemblies under the dash.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 09:06 am
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Arthur
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Pretty rusty yeah but I could still see some paint :)

Often salty/icy/wet/muddy boots shuffling down there, that probably doesn't help.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 09:11 am
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Yeah, but mine has been babied it's entire life. Snow on shoes is unavoidable in the winter, but I have the rubber floor (EDGE), so it doesn't stay wet.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 12:33 pm
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JAMMAN, Great idea to find an Automatic Vehicle for replacement.
Wouldn't have thought of that unless I heard it !
I am having trouble finding a Salvage Yard or just a plain old JUNK YARD !
Isn't my thread but thanks for the info !



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 Posted: Thu Jan 30th, 2020 01:16 pm
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here is a new one ebay pricey
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-98-03-Ford-Ranger-Explorer-Mountaineer-Parking-Brake-Pedal-Lever-F87Z2780AA/323484579863?epid=1011163936&hash=item4b512ef817:g:WnUAAOSw0ZZbt89E

used one cheap from an automatic
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EXPLORER-1998-Emergency-Brake-Parts-Parking-Brake-Pedal-Assembly/233480873678?hash=item365c8b66ce:g:lskAAOSwzxldswOI



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 06:43 am
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Good to post again, I haven't been on forums lately much due to studying for CISSP, so most of my time is going towards that.

Appreciate all the info!

Yep it's kind of annoying.  It would do this periodically years ago but now it's definitely happening every time.  Go figure.

The automatic one seems like a nice idea actually!

The ones on ebay for whatever reason at about $160 but if I go to Tasca Ford online it's only $80 + 20 in shipping (so about $100 total with shipping).  I found a "new" one on eBay that someone is selling but it looks kinda rusty in spots which makes me wonder... Going ebay route will save me 25 bucks from buying at the dealer.  Pics below of what he's selling on ebay.










I have to assume that mine is original with the truck, so around 19 years old give or take.

I was going to remove the current parking brake assembly but figured if I remove it just to look at it I might as well have another on hand to put in, rather than saying "yep, mines messed up" then reinstalling that and waiting for another one to come in.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 11:55 am
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Nigel,

Interesting project, my '03 only has 100K on it and I haven't had the problem, knock-on-wood.

I was wondering what your adjusters under the truck look like ?

I understand the Spring in the mechanism is what bring the pedal up BUT just maybe the Cables need a little tightening.

Tasca selling that unit for $100 sound like a good price, I use them for all of my OEM Parts, I think they are reasonable.

Good Luck on project, hope it goes easy... is your truck Auto or manual Shift ?

Ltr



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 01:14 pm
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I've seen a couple of you post about the "automatic one". What, exactly, are you referring to? The park brake is the same regardless of automatic or manual shift, right?  @Scrambler: Nigel's truck is an automatic.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 01:18 pm
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I think they mean that people with automatic transmissions often never use the parking brake and just put the transmission in P so the spring hasn't worn.

Last edited on Fri Jan 31st, 2020 01:18 pm by Arthur



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 01:24 pm
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@Arthur: Ah okay.  That makes sense.  Yeah, I don't use mine much... maybe I should, but I just never did with automatic trans vehicles.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 01:41 pm
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I have not used my parking brake on my current Ranger since I had a problem on my previous 2000 Ranger where the rear parking brake stuck in the engaged position & the truck would not move & had to be towed.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 01:50 pm
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Well, that had to be very irritating!  What caused the lock up; the unit under the dash or the cables?



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 07:20 pm
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IIRC a bent backing plate. Both my current & my previous Rangers have always had problems with the parking brake in the winter times, water would get in the brake cables & freeze over night & then they would not release so since they are both automatics I just stopped using them.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 31st, 2020 07:29 pm
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It would take a really hard hit to bend a backing plate!  Were you offroading?



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mhoward wrote:
It would take a really hard hit to bend a backing plate!  Were you offroading?
No. I never did find out from the shop that fixed it what caused it.



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Even with Manual Trans, some of us don't use the e-brake, at least me.

I had the E-Brake Light on problem in my '88 STX, just picked the lever up with my foot, didn't do any with it.   When I went to 5.0L I used an auto and never thought about it again.   When I build a custom dash panel, I made sure I had the light inlace for the e-brake, butI can't remember having any problems after that with the light on.

I'm guessing disk brakes would fix that too.

Nigel, If you find a problem with the E-Brake Mechanism, after you take it out, one that you can see, please post some pictures.

Thx / Ltr



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2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sat Feb 1st, 2020 10:44 am
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Nigel, the pics you posted of the eBay new unit appear to be legit.  I don't see any evidence of prior installation around the bolt holes.  Although there is a small bit of rust, I think this would be due to the lack of paint, which seems to plague our trucks.  Obviously, the replacement units didn't get paint either!



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 Posted: Sat Feb 1st, 2020 11:49 am
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Working the premise of Automatic Trans owners do not use their E-Brakes.
It was always thought, years, years... back, that you shouldn't leave your auto trans running in part because it builds up pressure and blows out seals.
Funny I always left my auto trans vehicles in park and running, especially in the winter, and I never had any seals replaced, never had oil under the vehicles... !

My next vehicle or IF there is a 5.0L Conversion... an automatic it will be.
Out here in SoCal there are more STOP Signs and Traffic Lights than I have ever seen, my manual trans, although still my choice, is becoming a PITA !



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2020 11:15 pm
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I had this happen as well I re-adjusted by back brakes and it fixed it for awhile then I had to replace the cables when one broke. There is a spring on each cable that assists in the release might be all you need to do. Also a little lubrication on the inside assembly will help.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2020 11:16 pm
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Hey welcome to F-R!



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