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Detroit Axle       #: 1527
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2019 03:37 pm
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JAMMAN

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410 Jamie has cautioned all of us from massive experience about the popular vendor of front end components "Detroit Axle".

Several other members have been negative about them due to a couple personal experiences and a lot of lore.

I have been on the positive side and have had several good experiences with their products and no bad... until yesterday.

I don't remember exactly when I did my front end, but it has not been 2 years and I have not been 4 wheeling.

Everything still works but the boots are falling off my lower balls already, exposing them. I will have to replace them next summer because I don't know how long the boots have been open. Any open boot drastically shortens the life of a ball joint or any other front end part.

So if you buy a junker to sell and don't want to spend a fortune I would still go with Detroit axle.

If you want to keep it even a couple years please buy a better product.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2019 10:45 am
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410customs

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Well said

parts are cheap labor is expensive, so don't skimp on the parts!!



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 Posted: Thu Feb 21st, 2019 02:17 pm
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Scrambler82
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Just went out to take a look at the parts and came away with two thoughts:

1) The prices appear to be on the lower side.

2) No manufacturer is posted or Country of Origin !
(I'm guessing CHINA)

Some of the parts did have a 10 year warranty, wondering how long it would take to get a replacement part.

Thx for the info !



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 10:40 am
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JAMMAN

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So what do I do for upper arms now? I'm facing this on my short cab, going to use the Mevotech TTX for the lowers as suggested by 410 but what for the uppers, you have to buy the entire arm so from where?



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 06:03 pm
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Arthur
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Well I just did the upper arms on mine and bought moog and when I unpacked them it said Made in USA!



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2008 XLT 4x4 4.0 5Spd. Pretty much stock except 33's and Bilsteins: A bit broken for now.
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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 07:16 pm
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JAMMAN

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LOL Moog ships USA made components to Canada and when we get them they are from china.

Moog must be stepping up their game, thank you :)



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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 07:23 pm
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Tsquare
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JAMMAN wrote:
Moog must be stepping up their game, thank you :)
Nope. I did Moog upper and lower ball joints last year. About a month ago the passenger side lower starting squeaking again.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 09:12 pm
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JAMMAN

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Mevotech makes uppers too it looks like. They don't have the 2 piece right upper though only the one piece.

What was the reason for the 2 piece right upper anyway?



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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 09:36 pm
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JAMMAN

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OK turns out Rock Auto has the best price on the TTX series mevotech parts. Now looking for bearings.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 10:07 pm
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JAMMAN

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You know what sucks?

This is half what I paid for the truck:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?cartid=8ac594c140c9f90a62f1831cb72852ce

Don't know how long the cart link lasts here is the list for a typical 4WD non vacuum hub 4 wheel ABS Ranger:

Mevotech TTX CTXK8708T Left upper control arm with ball joint
Mevotech TTX CTXK80068 Right upper control arm with ball joint (1 piece replacement for original 2 piece)
Mevotech TXK8695T (2X) Lower ball joints
Timken SP450201 (2X) Wheel hub/bearing assy



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 09:42 am
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410customs

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using the one piece upper on the pass side will result in needing aftermarket camber shims (eccentric cam) bolts in the upper control arms on both sides.

here is the ttx two piece upper:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10317884&cc=1438304&jsn=3456

Stick with the two piece upper for the pass side! Then you do not need to swap the upper control arm bolts.
Spicer, Pro forge are also acceptable parts.
Moog is starting to make better products, thank goodness.

Last edited on Tue Jun 25th, 2019 09:43 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 10:37 am
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JAMMAN

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I always put aftermarket cam bolts in anyway, and was thinking I would get new bushings if I replaced it with one piece. Is this bad thinking?



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01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 10:50 am
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410customs

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no it just makes alignment harder
I am able to keep the alignmnet before and after install of UCA's on these trucks and as long as its dang close to where it was when we started I can also adjust camber and toe using the torsion bars and tie rod ends here in house. Saves $$$$ for alignment

Yes if you want new UCA bushing then do the one piece with the eccentric cams
Make sure you tighten the control arm bushings AFTER the truck is sitting on its weight



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 Posted: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 11:15 am
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JAMMAN

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Thanks, the tightening thing I did know about this is the 4th time I have done this. N00b by your standards lol but you have to start before you can get anywhere.

I would try the self alignment thing but I literally do not have any verifiable flat spots to work on. Even the stalls at work are pitched for drain and our parking lot is atrocious.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 11:26 am
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410customs

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I must have done 10 sets of these things before I learned about the pre load on the bushings. That answered the question why we had one new set of control arms start making noise right after they were installed!

Live and learn!

you must have a flat level space for alignment that is for sure...take measurements, then lift truck and make measured corrections.... also can use 4 jack stands and some string. I have my ways!!



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