Another 2002 v8 swap - 8 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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Idahome

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not with a front driveshaft

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Posted: Wed Sep 25th, 2019 03:12 pm

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4.0power
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410customs wrote:
not with a front driveshaft
I should of be more specific, I want true duals but both will exit before the right rear tire. I'd think from seeing pics 2.5 should fit but I've never seen a v8 ranger before

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Posted: Thu Sep 26th, 2019 11:29 am

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Idahome

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Okay so there is no room between the t case and the frame rail and then the fuel tank for you to run a pipe, so my guess is you would need to run drivers pipe across the trans and over to the pass side, then to the rear, and then back over to the drivers side to exit....? It would be easier if both pipes exit the pass side..
That would still be a TIGHT fit
Now there are PLENTY of Rangers out there with dual exhaust, very few of them are 4x4..
You could run both pipes out the side on the passenger side, but the range gives you some "space challenges" since you have a midship fuel tank, a huge transfer case, a front driveshaft and possibly a spare tire under the back to deal with.

Outboard the frame rails? Maybe
Run both dual pipes down the passenger side, more possible...but true duals? Maybe, not alot of room.
I always use a single exhaust on these trucks because of those reasons.

Last edited on Thu Sep 26th, 2019 11:32 am by 410customs

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Posted: Thu Sep 26th, 2019 01:44 pm

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Eddie Money
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Black06xlt and V8 level II both have dual exhaust I believe. They might be able to answer some of your questions regarding true dual exhaust. I remember reading V8 level II describing it as "difficult"

Another possibility would be to use an aftermarket fuel cell and relocate it where the spare was...

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Posted: Thu Sep 26th, 2019 02:46 pm

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4.0power
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Eddie Money wrote:
Black06xlt and V8 level II both have dual exhaust I believe. They might be able to answer some of your questions regarding true dual exhaust. I remember reading V8 level II describing it as "difficult"

Another possibility would be to use an aftermarket fuel cell and relocate it where the spare was...
Well that's a idea but I love the look of the both exiting before the right rear tire. Probably find a good exhaust shop and have them fab and weld it all up

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410customs

Posted: Thu Sep 26th, 2019 03:39 pm

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Eddie Money
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I saw a cool way to flare the ends without using tips. The welded a 90° at the end and cut it like this. Scribbled that on my note, you should be able to see the idea though. Exiting both in front of the tire should be simpler than going to the bumper

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Posted: Fri Sep 27th, 2019 02:08 pm

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4.0power
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Eddie Money wrote:
I saw a cool way to flare the ends without using tips. The welded a 90° at the end and cut it like this. Scribbled that on my note, you should be able to see the idea though. Exiting both in front of the tire should be simpler than going to the bumper

Hmm I like the look of that idea I also like to see if I can find nascar style tip.. are high flow cats better than stock? I planned on deleting the rear two. Simpler to fit with a X pipe and all.

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Posted: Fri Sep 27th, 2019 08:39 pm

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JAMMAN

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Delete them all. Death to all cats. Have someone write the 2 rear O2 sensors out of the ECU all you need are the front 2.

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Posted: Fri Sep 27th, 2019 08:44 pm

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JAMMAN wrote:
Delete them all. Death to all cats. Have someone write the 2 rear O2 sensors out of the ECU all you need are the front 2.
Believe me I would! But I still need it to pass inspection. I'm not concerned about emission testing since the truck will be Exempt since I put less than 5k miles on it in a year and I'll be moving to a area where there are no emissions just inspections.

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Posted: Sat Sep 28th, 2019 10:44 am

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Idahome

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It can still look like the cats are there hint hint nudge nudge
Without the cats in place the computer will still be happy on a properly running 5.0 and you will still pass the PCM and sniffer tests how would I know this? hmmmmm.....not sure. Maybe I passed emissions at the same exact station in Colorado for 15+ years..... I ran my BII through CO emissions with the 2.9L, with the 4.0L and then when I went V8 they made me have it inspected by a referee, added a charcoal canister (Mine was MIA) and then I was allowed to test...always passed with flying colors. IN FACT the 5.0 blows less emissions then the old 2.9L did.......
My 5.0 cat converters in the down pipes look like they are still in place..... they look like stock cats from the outside!! no secondary cats are/were required even the referee agreed with that.

Now in North Idaho no cats are required I will be making custom downpipes, I never liked having the converters near the transmission...the 5.0 drivers side converter is directly nuder the torque converter almost as if Ford wanted the cat converter and the torque converter to be friends. Cat's get super hot....I want that heat past my transmission or no cats would/will be even be better.
A cat converters job is to burn any un spent fuel that makes it through the combustion chamber..with a properly running obd2 5.0 there should not be any unburnt fuel......

I do like the the idea of dual exhaust both exiting on the pass side, makes things much easier.
When people say "true duals" I think same length pipes symmetrical exhaust with two pipes, one on each side of the truck, no H pipe or X pipe, you know TRUE DUALS like a V twin harley or a Rat rod. With a 4x4 this is like.....well its not really possible unless you go outside the frame rails.
outside the frame rails IS a good option on these trucks, there is ROOM for that

Either way you are talking full custom exhaust = $$$$

Last edited on Sat Sep 28th, 2019 11:04 am by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Sep 28th, 2019 10:47 am

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That's given me something to think about. It'll depend on what I feel like spending lol.

Got the MAF switched over to a newer style air box and drilled a hole for the intake temp sensor

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Posted: Sun Sep 29th, 2019 10:12 pm

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4.0power
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Checked the pushrod length, all good in that department. Now for valve springs and water pump. Question for the seasoned guys, should I replace the rear main seal, it's onlg got 37k on it but the motor has been sitting for 2/4 years... I'm thinking yes, should I go fel pro/ford racing/???

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Posted: Mon Sep 30th, 2019 08:53 pm

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Finally found a return less fuel rail! Got it cleaned up for the most part. Went to my local ace hardware looking for a standard 3/8 plug found some that are counter sunk which I love since it keeps the manifold looking clean.

Took the 37k mile injectors that cam with the motors found them full of nasty fuel and a good bit of run so I'm going to look into some new filters/o rings.

Can I â€fireâ€ injectors using a 9 volt battery for a spilt second? Would brake clean work for cleaning them?

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Posted: Mon Sep 30th, 2019 08:56 pm

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Finally found a return less fuel rail! Keeping with the almost OE look of the motor, found some counter sunk 3/8 plugs for the trick flow manifold.

Pulled the 37k injectors that came with the motor. Found nasty fuel and rust so it's time for a good cleaning. Can I fire injectors using a 9 volt? It'll only be a spilt second. And can brake cleaner be used?

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Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 07:05 am

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JAMMAN

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If money permits take them to a place with an ultrasonic cleaner. They can flow test them and prevent plenty of problems in the future.

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Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 07:49 am

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4.0power
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JAMMAN wrote:
If money permits take them to a place with an ultrasonic cleaner. They can flow test them and prevent plenty of problems in the future.
I've never had injectors cleaned before, who would you recommend? Fuel injector clinic ?

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Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 07:55 am

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JAMMAN

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I have no idea. I used to do it myself, we have a machine here but it is in a shed out back now they took it out of service. It would cycle the injector in the ultrasonic then flow test it with calibrating fluid in "graduates" like a flask in chemistry class.

I've seen them stick open for the first 100 cycles then start closing up, I've seen them stick closed for the first 100 cycles or so then act normal. I've seen them never open, I've seen them stuck open and I've seen them drizzle. So many things can happen to injectors. Almost worth it to buy a new set.

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Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 08:14 am

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4.0power
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JAMMAN wrote:
I have no idea. I used to do it myself, we have a machine here but it is in a shed out back now they took it out of service. It would cycle the injector in the ultrasonic then flow test it with calibrating fluid in "graduates" like a flask in chemistry class.

I've seen them stick open for the first 100 cycles then start closing up, I've seen them stick closed for the first 100 cycles or so then act normal. I've seen them never open, I've seen them stuck open and I've seen them drizzle. So many things can happen to injectors. Almost worth it to buy a new set.
I can get a set of 8 that are already rebuilt off of eBay for 100 bucks. Might just have to do that

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Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 09:06 am

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Idahome

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you can test/clean your own injectors
Use a 12V battery and carb cleaner, not brake cleaner

You can make a simple adapter from a old tire valve stem and the red straw from the carb cleaner

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg

I would replace the rear main seal yes, use felpro
The 5.0 Explorer engine ALWAYS develops small leaks at the RMS, even your new seal will likely leak a little. Some wetness I have just learned to live with. No "drips" allowed

Enjoy!

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Posted: Tue Oct 1st, 2019 09:07 pm

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410customs wrote:
you can test/clean your own injectors
Use a 12V battery and carb cleaner, not brake cleaner

You can make a simple adapter from a old tire valve stem and the red straw from the carb cleaner

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg

I would replace the rear main seal yes, use felpro
The 5.0 Explorer engine ALWAYS develops small leaks at the RMS, even your new seal will likely leak a little. Some wetness I have just learned to live with. No "drips" allowed

Enjoy!
I can live with leaky not drippy. My foxbody got leaks from every gasket that should hold oil in. Drives me nuts.

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Posted: Thu Oct 3rd, 2019 06:56 am

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4.0power
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Found out that 2 out of 8 injectors are stuck closed, gona try 410customs idea but blow it backwards to see if that will free them up. If not I got another rail with injectors that I can pull two from

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Posted: Thu Oct 3rd, 2019 07:02 am

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JAMMAN

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Sir, without proper ultrasonic cleaning the fix is temporary. Please get injectors.

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Posted: Fri Oct 4th, 2019 08:44 pm

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JAMMAN wrote:
Sir, without proper ultrasonic cleaning the fix is temporary. Please get injectors.
Ok fine I'll replace the two badones. Hahaha your a tough cookie! I'm sorta building a budget motor for now. Thinking about throwing a spare 347 I got into it after everything is sorted out with the truck.

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Posted: Mon Oct 7th, 2019 09:20 pm

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For the wiring guys here, for me to tell which connector number I got (42 pin) could I just ID the wire color/ striping to that connector in relation to its location?

I want to be double sure I'm wiring each connector the right way lol.

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Posted: Mon Oct 7th, 2019 09:20 pm

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2002 ranger 42 pin connector

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