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03 3.0 v6 help       #: 2115
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 03:50 pm
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MdubG
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Ok y'all so I finally got my engine back together and I've started it up multiple times with no problem except I think my engine temp gauge isn't working. Maybe I need a new sender or something but nothing else happens with it just siting and running. However when I went to drive it around for not even 5 minutes right after a startup the check gauge light comes on. My question(s) is: would the check gauge light be coming on that sound because the gauge itself isn't working? Or is my engine heating up that quickly to the point of overheating? 
Again nothing lights up with the truck just sitting only when I drive it. And I figured I'd ask here instead of other sites or Facebook with how some people act. Any help would be appreciated

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 06:06 pm
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Tsquare
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The first thing is to get the temp gauge working. It is either a connection or the sending unit as the gauge on the dash almost never goes bad.

Get an OBCII reader to get the code that is in the computer. Any advice at this point would be guessing.



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Tony
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 06:13 pm
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MdubG
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I was told can't get codes off a check gauge light  only check engine light and the only codes that were pulled from my check engine light that did come on the other day was I was running lean. Guess I should've said that earlier.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 06:36 pm
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JAMMAN

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The gauge itself will not cause the check gauge light to come on only the sending unit can.

The thermostat could be stuck closed and the system was never purged of air because of that.

As Tony said, the gauge hardly ever goes bad except for an occasional needle falling completely off.

I don't have a manual but I'm pretty sure that 3.0 has 2 water temp sensors. One for the computer and one for the gauge. If your OBD scanner can see water temp and it is rising it might just be the sending unit to the gauge which would cause the light to come on.

The sending unit for the gauge only has 1 wire and the one for the computer has 2. Should be easy to figure out which one it is I think I would replace it regardless.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 07:34 pm
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MdubG
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JAMMAN wrote:
The gauge itself will not cause the check gauge light to come on only the sending unit can.

The thermostat could be stuck closed and the system was never purged of air because of that.

As Tony said, the gauge hardly ever goes bad except for an occasional needle falling completely off.

I don't have a manual but I'm pretty sure that 3.0 has 2 water temp sensors. One for the computer and one for the gauge. If your OBD scanner can see water temp and it is rising it might just be the sending unit to the gauge which would cause the light to come on.

The sending unit for the gauge only has 1 wire and the one for the computer has 2. Should be easy to figure out which one it is I think I would replace it regardless.

The one wire one is by the thermostat right?because that's the one I replaced along with that outlet was well because it was rusted up. I'll probably replace it this weekend and let y'all know what happens. There isn't a fuse for it huh? I haven't checked for it yet and only just thought about it.

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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2020 09:05 pm
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MdubG
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Ok so I found out that I did get the sensor instead of the sender and that's why the gauge wasn't moving. So tomorrow I'll replace it and I'm going to reburp the system cuz I don't think i got all the air out. At least it's somewhat minor fixes to avoid a disastrous problem

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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 10:47 am
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JAMMAN

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I use an unusual method for burping.

I found one of those long clear funnels, mine is like 24" long. I have seen them at all the major parts store chains, walmart, lots of places.

I cut the funnel on the bottom till it was just under the diameter of the opening (for flow) then I jam it in the radiator opening, it locks in and does stay still.

The problem with just putting fluid in is when it first heats up and starts expanding, more fluid is ejected from the radiator than should be... making a mess for one and shorting the cooling system of needed fluid.

Using the funnel... first fill the radiator then put the funnel in.
As the truck heats up you will see the fluid rising in the funnel. Then when the thermostat opens it will suck it in quickly. This is when you pour more fluid in the funnel, just till you can see it on the bottom just below the radiator opening.

This will happen 2 or 3 times because the first time it sucks it in the cold fluid it sucks in will close the thermostat!

You might see as much as 8" of fluid rising in the funnel before it sucks down.

When you put the fluid in it and it stays under the funnel with the temp gauge where it normally is... then it is OK to remove funnel and put the cap on. Since the funnel is translucent you can even see the coolant flowing just under it!

No mess, no fuss, no expensive vacuum filler devices... all is well.

Don't forget during this to turn your heater on even if it is summer. This allows the fluid to fill the heater core also.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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