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1998 Ranger 3.0 to 4.0 conversion - Proj       #: 1947
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sun Feb 16th, 2020 04:18 pm
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This is just stuff I have heard more than once Jamie, the only swap I really have experience at is a 5.0 in a 2wd born with a 4 cyl and I made enough mistakes on it that I learned a BUNCH. I have what I think is a correct motor mount for drivers side now and have to swap it out after I noticed... a slight motor tilt using the 4 cyl mount. The passenger side ended up being identical to the 4.0 mount in every way. I have a picture of them side by side somewhere.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 19th, 2020 10:06 am
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much progress on this truck
Did I mention I love having a 2 post lift?
Trans and t case are in, exhaust has been fabricated, ready to bleed the clutch and fill the trans and t case, then lower it back down to finish the top of the engine.

Progress:
Before installing the engine I swapped the power steering line from 3.0 to 4.0. In hindsight the 3.0 line may have worked, but for peace of mind I used the 4.0 since I know it works and was working before the swap.
Also swapped the 3.0 throttle cable for 4.0


Also prepped (clean) the 4.0 engine wiring and needed a 98 Ranger 4.0 fuel line


Now thanks to Jamman I had to check the height of our 3.0 engine mounts....and turns out we are good to go!




same height both sides!

next onto the fuel rail, had to ditch the 97 Explorer return style fuel rail in favor of a 98 ranger returnless setup. So as usual I bench cleaned and tested each injector, then re ring them and install the fuel rail and gaskets before dropping the engine in


home made fuel injector cleaner/tester






Fuel injector O rings are lubed with vaseline.......vaseline is soluble in fuel works perfect for this application. 


Engine dropped in place and bolted down




Onto the wiring



wiring up the alternator.....this engine came from an explorer. The ranger the alternator is wired through the C112 42 pin plug pins 41 and 42...so this is where I ran the alternator voltage regulator wires to.



Had to cut off the explorer pins and solder ranger/female pins instead




alternator is now powered and connected to battery light

Next is the MAS and airbox, the 97 Explorer donor uses the stupid round airbox with built in MAS. This will not fit our ranger so I am converting to the 3.0 square airbox and mas.
This requires building a simple harness. 97 Explorer MAS plug with 98 Ranger MAS wired on




The coolant temp sensor for the dash is different from a 97 explorer to 98 ranger so I had to install the 98 ranger sensor and wiring pigtail. Parts are coming from the old 3.0 engine.
NEVER GET RID OF OLD PARTS until the conversion is complete......trust me on this.





Also the coil pack wiring plug was broken so I swapped it out with a good one (from the 3.0)




Now onto the starter / ac wiring harness....to make things easy on myself and after looking things over I decided to keep and modify the 3.0 Ranger starter/ A/C harness. It already plugs into the truck and wires up the battery, power dist box and ac clutch and high pressure switch. All I had to do was modify the starter side of things to fit the 4.0 / 5 speed starter and add one ground cable.



wiring done, engine in and ready for more


truck was then lifted up so we can install power steering cooler, clutch and 5 speed, starter, t case, drivelines, and fab up some exhaust (cats deleted)

sorry did not get many pics of the underside work, it all looks like a stock Ranger except for modded exhaust

Flywheel was cleaned with scotchbrite and wiped clean. Clutch (has 100 miles on it) was cleaned and installed, trans was stabbed




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 Posted: Wed Feb 19th, 2020 10:13 am
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mhoward
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410customs wrote:
Did I mention I love having a 2 post lift?
I don't recall ever hearing you say you love... OH WAIT! ;-)



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Thu Feb 20th, 2020 10:29 am
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410customs

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buttoned up the exhaust and undercarriage work, filled the t case and trans with fresh Mercon III
Put truck back down on all 4


Dang camera lens was dirty sorry for fuzzy pics!

Started to work on the engine bay.....first to go back in is the AC line.... so we remove and clean the AC orifice valve...was already nice and clean which is good to see, only a few flakes and some goo


New headlights and corner lights are on their way. 
I have a set of new 98 tail lights already, never used on another project.
In the hunt for some good seats....now to get it running so we can see how we did!



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 Posted: Sun Feb 23rd, 2020 09:56 am
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410customs

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almost ready to turn the key
Heres a little trick for you guys with older trucks...the little 90 degree rubber nipple that attaches vacuum to the heater control valve gets old and worn out, it does not fit as snug as it used to. Snip off 1/8" of the rubber.....then re apply. It fits snug again


Before putting the upper plenum on (UIM) on these 4.0 you have to install the AC line, it routes around the back of the engine
the AC line and compressor always get new O rings 

The AC high pressure switch wires from the 3.0 harness do not reach the 4.0 AC line, so I stripped back the factory conduit and made enough length without cutting anything






scored a fender badge at the JY


EGR tube was cleaned and installed a new EGR gasket/O ring



Time to install the UIM, new O rings are needed. Use a pick to pull the old dry ones out, clean the areas with Q tips and apply new O rings with a slight coating of vaseline


Intake is on
time for plug wires, I LOVE packard wires, sold under many diff names


Time to clean the MAS, holy crud. This one was really nasty....it came from the 98 ranger that had an engine full of water.... I use carb cleaner and spray the crap out of the sensor wires. I had to use a Q tip to carefully remove some dirt this time. Normally I try not to touch the sensor wires at all


Coming together!!
We ditched the single core 3.0 radiator in favor of this 5.0 dual core from an exploder.


Ready for a battery and fluids!


Fingers crossed!!



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 Posted: Sun Feb 23rd, 2020 10:33 am
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mhoward
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Looking good in that engine bay, Jamie!



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Feb 23rd, 2020 01:27 pm
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Best build threads. So much detail and explanation...🤗🤗🤗



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 Posted: Mon Feb 24th, 2020 09:18 am
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410customs

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working on the PVH delete
swap to explorer wheel bearings and cv axles, sometimes it is easier just to swap the entire knuckle
This Ranger has newer ball joints, tie rod ends, cv axles and brakes.....we will keep the ball joints and tie rods.

Ranger parts on the ground

What to do with the rest of my lunch break? LOL

Truck being "de mudded" in prep for new parts. Turns out when we bought this thing it still ran and we DROVE it to the house (2 miles) during mud season. Lucky me, I get to remove two year old dried up mud from every orrifice


stay tuned



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 Posted: Sat Feb 29th, 2020 10:03 am
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410customs

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Finished the PVH delete, installed CV axles, wheel bearings, knuckles and rotors from a later model explorer

With all that mud servicing the brake caliper was tons of fun. So glad to have a parts washer!
Dang near new wheel bearings and larger brake rotor on this rig now

Decided to run these 16" sport trac wheels to clear the new brakes, wheels have newer tires on them maybe 5000 miles. 

MUCH better then the stocker 15's and 235's
We hooked up the clutch line and bled the clutch while truck was still on the rack

Installed 4 new shocks, the rear shocks on this truck were leaking so we went ahead and ordered 4 new ones.


Went through the front and rear brakes, serviced the calipers, pads are at 80%, this truck was WELL maintained, lots and lots of new parts all over.

Also put some wheel and tires on it, had to run 16's to clear the new brakes.

Installed a new Carter fuel pump and strainer



We not driven it yet but we did get to the point where we put a battery in and turned the key.....vroom
Fired right up and runs smoooooth
Ran her through a couple of heat cycles, let the thermostat open, bleed the fluids....all signs are GO!
Truck runs awesome!






She has entered the detailing stage

Had to find some seats for this truck, we found the perfect set of 96 Explorer cloth seats and center console!
Will be cleaning up some seats today.
Also found some doo dads like OHV throttle body cover, headlight retainer clips, little stuff we needed for this build


Remember the nasty interior? Elbow grease to the rescue!





have all new headlights, parking lamps and tail lamps for this truck
Well almost
gotta love Ebay! Sent two of the LH light..........

replacement is on the way



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 Posted: Sat Feb 29th, 2020 11:12 am
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mhoward
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Dang! that interior cleaned up super nice!  I really didn't think there was much hope for it...



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2020 09:24 am
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410customs

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Thank you. If you like that you are going to love this.
Went to the junk yard in search of some seats.....found them! Also found a center console so I do not have to use one of mine from my collection.
We snagged some seats from a really really clean 96 Explorer. Of course they are still junk yard seats so they needed some major cleaning. 
But first the bases, how do you put 96 explorer seats into a 98 ranger? Well I do it like this:
First off you need to remove the stock seat sliders from your old ranger 60/40 seat.
This is quite a chore!! 
Starts off looking like this


keep unbolting things until you have one of these lying on the floor

The drivers stock seat slider.
Now it needs some modifications in order to bolt onto the bottom of the explorer bucket seat, we need to cut a bunch of rivets


The reason we cut the rivets is we are only after the slider portion of these seat tracks. We do not need the recline mechanism or the seat pivot points.
Also the Ranger seat bolts are 11" apart, the explorer are 14" apart which is exactly the width of the seat tracks at the sliders.
So the top piece of metal in this metal sandwich needs to be removed.




Now we have two sliders and all rivets are MIA





Need to drill one hole 13-7/8" from center to center from the rear most hole forward, these will be the new mounting holes to the explorer seat



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 Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2020 09:37 am
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mhoward
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Are 96 Explorer seats different (mounting-wise) than 2000 Explorer seats?  My leather power seats bolted right in... just had to open up one mounting hole and done!



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2020 09:42 am
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410customs

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Nope not different, the 95 and 96 sploder seats are same as 97-01, same power bases, same bolt holes, etc.

What is different is this is a base model ranger and its 60/40 bench appears to be different then the other Ranger seats I have dealt with in the past?. It uses cables to recline, much like the sport trac seat did! Was not expecting to have to cut 20 rivets......

I was not expecting this much work as I have done this several times in the past....but we shall persevere!!
Note to self when headed to junk yard to get seats bring a 12v battery and some wire leads so I can move the power seats around...whooops. We had to painstakingly remove the explorer buckets with a 1/4" drive and 10mm deep socket....took a while. 
(I will be attempting to add the power air lumbar back into these babies)

Here they are after LOTS of cleaning. First vacuum, then soap and water, then purple power (diluted) and water, then water and more wet vacuum finally dry by wood stove




Not mounted yet


And the 4.0 throttle body, engine cover! Woooo hoo found one at the JY


More on the seat mounting later today



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 Posted: Tue Mar 3rd, 2020 11:07 am
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Those ARE nice seats!  Great score at the JY!



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So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Tue May 31st, 2022 12:13 am
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Hey I just switched my 3.0 to a 4.0 but had to wire my transmission harness to the 4.0 engine harness and now it is stuck in limp mode what did I do wrong? I changed the ECU  obviously but kept the 3.0 throttle body and coil pack.  I have power to my range sensor but not sure if signal is getting back to the ECU

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 Posted: Wed Jun 1st, 2022 11:08 pm
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JAMMAN

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Welcome to FR- we need a few details first like the year of the 3.0 ranger and the year of the 4.0 that you transplanted.

Seems like you know quite a bit being you made it run!



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 Posted: Thu Jun 2nd, 2022 02:47 am
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Sorry the 3.0 is a 2001 and the 4.0 came from a 99 but I think I figured it out because the computer I got from the junkyard was from the 95 which obviously cannot run a digital range sensor.. I think that should solve it

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 Posted: Thu Jun 2nd, 2022 02:52 am
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Oh and I also changed the bell housing. And when I did the wiring I soldered the wires and heat shrink and electrical tape

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 Posted: Fri Jun 3rd, 2022 07:02 pm
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I have a computer from a 99 4.0 auto Ranger and a 99 4.0 auto 2 door explorer. They both were OHV, if you can't find one locally. You would have to pay actual shipping.



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01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Sat Jun 4th, 2022 02:20 pm
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How much would you charge for the computer and do you know how much shipping would be

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 Posted: Sat Jun 4th, 2022 02:23 pm
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In your opinion do you think that the computer is the issue with the engine not firing correctly and the transmission being stuck in limp mode

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 Posted: Sun Jun 5th, 2022 08:49 pm
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Hardrocker31 wrote:
In your opinion do you think that the computer is the issue with the engine not firing correctly and the transmission being stuck in limp mode
That depends. I'm convinced it is the transmission issue but not the misfire.

Which coil did you use? Does the connector point upward or sideways? Believe it or not it makes a difference.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 6th, 2022 07:56 am
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It's the one that points upwards from the 3.0 I wired it into the 4.0 harness

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 Posted: Thu Jun 9th, 2022 09:43 pm
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Being I don't have the manual in front of me, look at this article first:

https://ford-rangers.com/forum48/1399.html


Just for fun, take wires on the coil 3 and 4 and put them in the sockets of 1 and 5, put 1 and 5 wires on 3 and 4. Try to start it. The middle 2 stay the same.

If that works you can just go with it, I use either coil on either engine depending on which one is at the top of the pile.

If that fails PM me and I'll send you an ECU, it should fit in a medium USPS box just paypal me the postage. I'll have looked at the wiring by then I do have a book.



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01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Sat Jun 11th, 2022 02:07 pm
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I've tried that once and it backfired. I will try again.. Thanks

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