Is it possible to change oil pan gasket - 4 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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Posted: Wed Nov 13th, 2019 10:19 pm

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wh23g3g
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Now that I have a new vehicle as my daily driver I can spend a little more time fixing this 98 Ranger 2.5's oil leaks. The engine was replaced at 228,000 with a 2001 engine which now has close to or right at 200,000 miles. The front crank seal, oil pump gasket, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal are leaking. The oil pan is only leaking on the exhaust side of course. The bolts are tight so they can't be tightened anymore. I'm sure it just needs to be replaced. The engine runs good and has good oil pressure. Doesn't smoke or use more than a half quart between oil changes probably due to the leakage. Did a compression test a year ago while it was in the shop and it was good. Can't remember what the PSI was but I think it was 140 all 4 cylinders is what the shop told me. I know the Ford manual says the engine has to be removed to change the oil pan gasket. Is there any possibility a shop would be able to change the oil pan gasket without removing the engine? I'm looking to have a shop that I normally go to when I can't tackle something. To keep the labor costs down I just want to know if it's something that's possible or does the engine absolutely have to come out?

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Posted: Thu Nov 14th, 2019 12:47 pm

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Eddie Money
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I had a 99 ranger with a bad oil pickup. I was told the engine would need to come out to fix it. They recommended I drive it till it quit. Not the solution you are looking for I'm sure.

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Posted: Fri Nov 15th, 2019 08:21 pm

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sheltonfilms
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Topic has come up before on the other forums. I haven't personally done it but I know it has been done.

Engine has to be unbolted from the mounts and jacked up. Most put wooden blocks between mounts and frame to keep it lifted up. It can be raised until the tranny hits the firewall. Fan will probably have to be removed.

One major issue is getting the pan to clear the pickup. I think the ones that did it in truck dropped the pan and snake the old gasket out and popped a new one in with the pan still sitting on the frame.

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Posted: Sat Nov 16th, 2019 12:21 am

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wh23g3g
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I'm sure it's been done just not shown online. I doubt I'll end up being able to do it for the labor charges. I would've tackled it myself but I can't have a vehicle in the driveway with parts everywhere and especially an engine out. Even though it's a second driver now. I'd really like to have the motor out and reseal the bottom end and end up seeing how many more miles I can get on the engine. It's not worth another engine and definitely not a full tear down and rebuild. I'm still going to ask the mechanic I go to. If any shop in my area can do it without taking the engine out he can.

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Posted: Sat Nov 16th, 2019 10:29 am

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okay so here's a little tid bit of info for you
To replace the oil pan gasket you gotta get the oil pan down about 2-3" off the bottom of the engine
After that there is enough room to clean the mating surfaces and get a new gasket in there to seal
The problem is getting the gasket around the oil pickup tube and up into place.
This is the step that has most engines coming out in order to install oil pan gasket, especially in 4x4 vehicles.
You can CHEAT
If you cut the gasket at one of the corners you can easily install it
Just use some RTV at that corner to make up the seal
I have done this in the past a few times
It is not my preferred method but it DOES work
Did a 6.0 in a GMC 2500 this way, the repair lasted the life of the truck
Still had to drop the front diff and lift the engine off its mounts as much as possible, it was still a huge PITA but not as bad as pulling the engine
Have also done this to a toyota and a 4.0 Ranger, no leaks after the repair
Clean the surfaces is the KEY to a good seal

Last edited on Sat Nov 16th, 2019 10:30 am by 410customs

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