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1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part       #: 1828
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 Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2020 11:53 am
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410customs

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good time to perform your own in house alignment?? With string, jack stands and an angle gauge :)
We will be back up and running soon, we will be stronger for it. This is USA!!!!!!!



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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks
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 Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2020 02:24 pm
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Smart!!!....Priorities!!!...



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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2020 06:48 pm
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What little noise you hear is the disk brake rubbing lightly against the pads.

Right now, only the suspension components are  hooked up. Brakes, cables, sensor, etc have yet to be hooked up.

I've placed an order for new U bolts, and a new pair of shackles. Debating whether or not to just buy a set of shackle mounts at the same time while I'm at it. 
I have used the old u bolts to mock up the new rear end.

A big thanks to a friend of mine (Let's call him "T"), for allowing me to use his jack which goes much higher than mine, and a pair of very tall jack stands which made this possible without me having to buy more equipment.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2020 07:23 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Something else I'm considering.

These leaf springs are as old as the truck. I have completely refreshed the front suspension, and I'm considering just saying "F it" and buying new rear leaf springs. Of course, if I were to get new leafs, I'd likely go for ones with an extra leaf, as I have a hitch in the rear. I am mildly concerned about new springs lifting up the rear and bulldogging my Ranger. I like the ride height where it is, and I'd like to keep it where it is.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Mon May 25th, 2020 10:29 am
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Pull the cover and look at the R7. Chances are it has never been off road.

2 kinds of R7's. Ones beat to death till they are about like an open. Most are statistically grocery getters and might have never seen action.

I would just hate to see you put a bunch of work in something that is basically OK.

What do you paint rear ends with?



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Mon May 25th, 2020 01:01 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Are you referring to the 8.8 or the 7.5 to inspect?

The 8.8 looks wonderful inside. Sounds nice, too. Oh, and I use rustolem primer followed up with black high performance enamel. 

Unfortunately that's where the good news stops. Came out this morning, and there's a puddle of oil beneath the diff. Great.

Pulled it off, opted to replace the chinsy gasket with a high quality felpro gasket. I used a small amount of RTV to glue the gasket to the cover to make it a little easier to put back together.

Stuck it back on, made sure all bolts were tight and it started leaking before I had a chance to pick up anything.

It is leaking around four of the lower  bolts, the drain bolt, and it appears to be leaking between the cover and diff housing itself. 

I swear to God, this rear end has fought me every inch of the way and continues to do so. I can only imagine how much of an absolute nightmare the rest of this project could turn out to be if something this simple is this bad. 

If anyone has any suggestions as to how to keep this thing from leaking, I'd love to hear it. I really wish I had a torque spec. I have to go by feel with an allen key and a 10mm wrench for extra leverage. I'll have to bring my hex socket set from work home for a night and try it with an actual ratchet.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Mon May 25th, 2020 01:23 pm
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mhoward
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Torque specs on a similar style FMS cover is 20-25 ft. lbs according to Summit Racing.



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Tue May 26th, 2020 10:59 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Went to work today, brought home some 3/8ths hex sockets and stuck them on a torque wrench.

As I suspected, the allen wrench with 10mm wrench didn't get the bolts tight enough, nowhere near.

Snugged 'em to 25 ft-lbs, and now only one bolt hole continues to leak.

Snugged 'em up again, and found the gasket had compressed to a degree. I suspect that after this go-round, the leak will be minimal if there at all anymore. May take one more go around. That said, it appears that I won't have to take the cover back off and go haywire with RTV, which I didn't want to do.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Thu May 28th, 2020 10:42 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I'm satisfied this rear end hates me to the core.

Over the past few days, I've been retorquing the bolts down as the gasket compressed. Well, one of them rounded out on me. At least there was enough meat to it that I could hammer in another key and get it back out. 

At this point, I'm going to just get a different cover and call it a day.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Fri May 29th, 2020 08:31 am
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410customs

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geesh that stinks! Is the vent plugged? A plugged vent line will force leaks in the rear axle.
Battle on!



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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2020 03:38 am
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I doubt it, but I'll give it a look. All the leaks happened when it wasn't moving, unless the oil itself puts off it's own gases and creates pressure by itself, of course..



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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2020 08:57 am
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Something is cracked or warped. You are having too many unusual problems you have to look at the not so obvious.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2020 12:33 pm
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Harbor freight has a 1/2 drive clicking torque wrench for $19 or $10 if you find a coupon...



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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 Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2020 10:31 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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We have 1/4, 3/8ths and 1/2 torque wrenches.

Ordered a new cover off of Summit Racing, one of their in-house covers. If this one doesn't work, then something is for sure wrong. Should be here tomorrow.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2020 12:24 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911 wrote:



If anyone has any suggestions as to how to keep this thing from leaking, I'd love to hear it. I really wish I had a torque spec. I have to go by feel with an allen key and a 10mm wrench for extra leverage. I'll have to bring my hex socket set from work home for a night and try it with an actual ratchet.





Ordered a new cover off of Summit Racing, one of their in-house covers. If this one doesn't work, then something is for sure wrong. Should be here tomorrow.



___________________________________


Is the new cover a stamped steel unit of a cast white metal ?

Here is what I have found IS the best approach to a Cover holding back oil is this:

1)  Make sure the sealing surfaces on the Cover and mating surfaces are smooth and straight.

2)  Using a good gasket sealer like Hy-Tach Spray Sealer, (red sealer) hang the gasket, spray the both sides of the gasket with a liberal coating of Hy-Tach, let set for at least 30 mins.   Do not use right away.    Spray before you start anything else on the Axle.
If you have drips on the lower edge wipe them off with a cloth, don't use a paper towel.

3)  Once the surfaces are clean and straight, apply a light spray of Hy-Tach Gasket Sealer to the gasket and lay the gasket in place.  I use two bolts with the head cut off, as alignment tools, slide the gasket on, making sure the gasket is lying flat.  The Sealer should hold the gasket in place, not always though !

4)  After you have made sure the Cover is straight/flat/smooth, slide the Cover in place.

5)  IF the Cover is a stamped steel cover, you need to use a some sort of elongated washers or pressure ring before bolting the cover in place, this will allow an even torque to be applied and you will not damage the steel cover.

6) If the Cover is a Cast Aluminum Unit then use flat washers that fit the bolts and fit the mounting surface, again this applys a more even torque to the cover and sealing surface.

7)  Torque all bolts to OEM Specs...using a cross tightening method used on a tire and wheel, snug them up... tighten, torque, this is important especially if you are using a Stamped Steel cover, to much or uneven torque will damage the mounting hole and it WILL leak oil.  Even the Cast Covers should only be tightened to OEM Specs, 
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN !    
NOTE: Just because a Mounting bolt can handle torque beyond the spec., doesn't mean you the Covers can !

The gasket is there to stop the oil leakage, the cover holds it in place, too tight and it can deform the gasket.


My experience with years of Harley Davidson Side Covers and Oil Leaks and Stamped Steel Valve Covers, have lead me to this method, once I sat down and worked on the Stamped Steel Side-Cover on my First Bike, a Harley, and determined the best method for sealing it, I didn't have any more oil leakage while it seemed everyone else was complaining about the problem.
I have applied this method to Valve Covers, Waterpump Housing Covers, Oil Pans, Side Cover, and the list goes on !
Do not over tighten !

Also, even new covers have problems, take a large flat file and run it across the gasket sealing surface on the new Summit Cover and see how the pattern looks.   If you are lucky is will look flat but sometimes they are not and it take only one small rise in the surface to cause the oil to start dripping.



Good Luck on the Oil Leak.

Ltr



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2020 03:01 pm
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Eddie Money
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I was hesitant to ask this because you said its leaking from the gasket. But I'll ask anyway since you are still having issues.

I've read in another thread that some of the new covers can accommodate more gear oil and some have over filled and had a leaking issue but the leak was coming from a different location. If you have to much gear oil and it builds pressure maybe it could blow the gasket..  

Just spitballing. Hope get it sealed.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 3rd, 2020 10:30 am
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410customs

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For leaky diff covers that refuse to seal with just a gasket

sandwich a gasket with permatex ultra grey
Clean the diff and cover mating surfaces
Install cover and sandwiched gasket
Let it setup for 45 minutes or longer
add gear lube
NO WAY THIS WILL LEAK
the permatex will make up for any imperfections in the cover or diff mating surfaces
You are not trying to hold back a ton of pressure here, just a gearcase full of lube
If you overfill it will start puking from the vent line when you get the gears hot
If your vent line is blocked it will seep past the wheel seals or pinion seal or around the diff cover
so make sure your vent line is not blocked.

You do not need a torque wrench to set a diff cover, tight is tight, these are steel bolts into a steel housing, its easy to stop when the bolt is tight.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 3rd, 2020 11:03 am
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What also helps is putting the permatex on, start tightening the bolts until the permatex STARTS to squeeze out. Let it cure like that for 1h, then tighten the bolts all the way, let it cure fully then add fluid.
That way you don't squeeze all the permatex out and you have a "squishy"  not too runny bead that will conform to imperfections on tightening.



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2008 XLT 4x4 4.0 5Spd. Pretty much stock except 33's and Bilsteins: A bit broken for now.
2007 FX4 Level II auto: new project!
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 Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2020 09:35 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Well, I got some progress done today, and amazingly, nothing fought me the whole day. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions for the rear end.

I got the new cover out of it's box, and I must say, that Summit cover is very well made. The gasket surface was getting close to polished, it was that shiny. The fill bolt appears to be at the same height as the stock fill bolt, and the drain plug as a magnet in it. The girdle cover bolts also have large, swivel bearing surfaces to make contact with the caps. The bolts used on the cover are 12 points, and I noticed right off the bat that these bolts have a much higher contact surface area than the allen head bolts of the previous cover. If I needed another cover, I'd buy this again in a heartbeat.

I followed the directions on the box, used no sealer at all. Stuck the cover on after making sure the surfaces were clean and smooth. Bolts were torqued down, and after letting it set for a few minutes, I poured in 3 quarts. It's getting on 7 hours of being full of oil, and not even a sign of seepage. Yet. 

While I waited, I swapped out the U bolts, and I hooked up the brakes. They still need to be bled. 

I have new shackles and shackle mounts, but I'm going to wait to replace those. I want to take the bed off, and to do that I need to finish the interior first. 

Little to-do list, before it's really driveable.
Rear End:
   E brake cables
   Bleed brakes
   New dust shields
   Shackles / Shackle mounts

Interior:
   Dye remaining interior panels + console
   Replace carpet w/ rubber floor liner
   Add mirrors, heated/turn glass, + puddle
   Reassemble

Then once all that is done, the truck needs an alignment. Once it's aligned, I'll start driving it to work and back for a month or two to get those new clutches broken in before the 5.0 takes hold. I figure the little 3.0 shouldn't be too awful taxing on it, even if I'm a little heavy handed (footed?) on it. 


I did some debating whether or not I still wanted to go through with the engine and trans swap. TL:DR, Yes I still am.

I'm a bit scared that this will be as frustrating as the rear end was, but worse. But, I know that once it's done, it's done, and I will have a V8 Ranger. Plus, if there will only be one time in my life where I can do a swap like this, it's now. I don't want to be old and grey and think to myself "Why did I pass that up?", so I'm going for it. 

Once the above is done, my plan is to aquire the transmission and transfercase assembly from a 4x4 97-03 F150, 4.2 v6. Those components will be loaded into the Ranger's bed, for storage. 
Originally I opted to do the interior last, but with the interior in the bed, that leaves no place to store those components, and I need that space. 

Now, since I'm not going to use the auto trans from the explorer, that gives me an opportunity to save some money. I can find a donor whose transmission is shot, and still be able to hear the engine run before purchase. Unfortunately I can't drive it home, but whatever. The F150 has a hitch that I can use to tow it to it's final resting place, where we can harvest it's five liter heart. After all, you can't spell slaughter without laughter. 

Since nobody wants to deal with trans issues, that'll make the donor much cheaper. Hopefully. People want way too much for these old expos around my area. 

Once i have all I need off the expo, off to the scrap heap it goes. 

Then.... Paint.

I'm going to put it out to you guys for suggestions, here. I'm starting to rethink the color choice of metallic black. Not so much the price as, the upkeep. My mother has a metallic black MKX, and it looks good, but that paint shows every speck of dirt on it. I'm not committed to it being a Ford color either. If you like a paint code, send it to me.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2020 11:24 pm
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VelociRanger
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Congrats on finally tackling that rear diff cover. It's a good job that you stuck with it and didn't let it get the best of you. :thumbsup: 

G9 vista blue...I love this color. It's a dark metallic blue that I don't see often, and it doesn't show as much dirt as black does.

I'm this picture my truck is DIRTY. The spots behind the wheels are the worst because the wheels shoot mud and debris up there, but unless it's white gravel mud then it barely shows. I love this color

Last edited on Sat Jun 6th, 2020 11:26 pm by VelociRanger



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I do like that color. Certainly a contender. 

In other news, the diff held it's fluid over night. The brakes are now bled and appear to work just fine. I took it around the neighborhood even, but not quite for the reason I wanted.

There's a bump in our driveway, and I decided to use it to help the suspension components settle in. The rear end is nice, quiet, and solid. No complaints.

The front is a different story. The driver's side front makes a destinctive rattle noise, but not a heavy clunk. I went underneath and made sure everything was nice and  tight, but I was unable to find any lose components. It's my suspicion that with all the new components together, they need to settle in by being driven. An alignment also needs to be done still, which I considered also to be a factor, given I threw the parts together, knowing I wouldn't be able to get it close myself. It's possible a washer or something happens to be in just the right place to make a noise. 

Ball joints (upper+lower), tie rod end, torsion bar (control arm side and frame side), etc, all appear to be as they should. I'm a bit befuddled, but not overly concerned. My thoughts are the noise is something stupid, as is usually the case. 

Keen eyed viewers will notice that the passenger side inner U bolt appears to be kicked out a bit. I noticed that as I took the photo and fixed it, so it's no longer like that. 

Ordered some vinyl floor from Rockauto to replace my carpet last night, so when that comes in, carpet comes out. This should look a lot nicer and be much easier to keep looking nice than the non automotive carpet I have in there now.

When I first bought the truck, it had tan carpet loaded with stains I couldn't lift. So I bought some cheap indoor outdoor carpet to replace it with, cut it to shape, and laid it in. For a guy on a budget, $20 for new carpet was a steal. But, with a bigger budget, this stuff is going away. It holds onto everything....

The F150 I've been driving has this same flooring in it, so I've had a chance to live with something similar. No more floor mats, no more clingy carpet. 

So, once that comes in, I'm going to get some more SEM dye, and this interior is going to turn black as coal. I haven't decided what I'm going to do with the door panels, though. There's a hole for the manual crank, which doesn't exist anymore. I thought about plugging it with a marker light, sort of like how the Explorer does, or replacing the panel all together. I guess that all depends on what I can find and/or how much new panels would be.







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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2020 02:24 pm
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The rattle could be coming from a loose sway bar link, and you won't really be able to see it unless you have the control arm jacked up. It won't affect steering and won't go away after an alignment...ask me how I know, lol.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2020 02:44 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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That was one of the first things I checked, actually. It's certainly tight.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2020 02:50 pm
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VelociRanger
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Well, maybe you're right in that you might just have something a tad bit off and an alignment will fix it



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2020 03:03 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I hope I'm right, because if I'm not, that means I did something wrong. Any thoughts on Toreador red? 

Last edited on Sun Jun 7th, 2020 03:04 pm by TheArcticWolf1911



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Member's Projects Showcase > 1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part

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