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Replacing 4.0       #: 2355
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
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 Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2021 05:58 am
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Im glad I was able to find this site, I had a tough time, its been a while since Ive been on it.

Some of you guys may remember me, anyway I still have the Ranger, since 2018 Ive used it on my property as a mule, Im glad that I have it.

Cylinder heads worked out great, quiet as a churchmouse, still has a cracked block though I believe, just to reiterate the owner prior to me just abused the truck badly.

Low mileage 98 with just barely over 100k 4wd automatic truck.

I am needing a truck, Ive been shopping around and still refuse to give what Toyota trucks are asking so Im seriously considering finding another relatively low mileage 4.0 if possible and changing the engine as an assy.

Hopefully if I spend a couple/few grand on this one Ill have a long lasting truck that wont be too harsh on fuel and I can register and use on the roadways.

Can someone here help with an engine or at least tell me specifically what it is that I should be looking for. If I remember correctly you guys had told me before that things changed after 98, that I had to be real careful with finding the correct engine otherwise Id end up with trying to make things work.

Id like to make the swap as seamless as possible.

Thank you for your time.

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 Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2021 07:07 pm
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JAMMAN

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Welcome back! A 4.0 from a 98,99 or 2000 will work just fine. There were some wiring differences between 98 and the rest but since you have the 98 still just don't throw it away till you rob all the sensors you need. I'm sure the oil pressure sensor a least is different and you might need the entire upper plenum with injectors, it has been a while but I think the plugs were a little different.

Black06XLT and myself ganged up on a blown 98 and put a 99 engine in it so I know it can be done.

We used an explorer motor but those were a little rare, some time in 99 the explorer used both the pushrod 4.0 AND the SOHC 4.0. If I'm not mistaken some of the 98's even had the SOHC. I got lucky and found a killer 99 expo with a 4.0 pushrod.

So don't promise to buy a 4.0 out of an expo from anybody till you see it yourself. Any 98 through 2000 ranger that has a 4.0 is surely a 4.0 pushrod like you have unless the owner swapped it out.

Where do you live again?



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 06:03 am
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Thanks, Brandon Florida

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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 06:16 am
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Im considering this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Engine-4-0L-VIN-X-8th-Digit-6-245-Low-Emissions-Fits-99-00-RANGER-559788/133707485652?fits=Make%3AFord&hash=item1f219651d4:g:FY8AAOSwI~dgYIm3
Do you see any issues or should I be asking the seller anything additional.

I wished that they would post a pict of the speedometer from the truck but I guess it really woldnt confirm a whole lot. I may ask regardless.

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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 06:20 am
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Ok, they dont accept any questions

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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 09:55 am
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Contacted seller and this one supposedly has 124.000, do you guys see any potential issues? Hes willing to send as a complete assy so it would seem to be an even easier swap. Thanks

I forget what my truck has on the odo, I think its like 102,000? Its a couple hrs away at this point.

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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 04:39 pm
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For a $1k engine with 124k miles to get my truck going again sounds reasonable. I would put that engine on a stand and drop the oil pan off and put in a new oil pump. This would allow me to see how much cylinder wall wear it had and if it had a sludge buildup. The oil pump is cheap insurance. New oil pan seals, rear main seal, thermostat w/ gasket,  spark plugs and possibly wires are all easier to replace outside the engine compartment.  If there was evidence of sludge I would also pull the intake to clean it and any carbon build ups out. 

When I got it into the truck I would use a high detergent synthetic oil and run it about 500 miles before I changed the oil again. I would make up trips to run it down the road to put the first 500 miles on as quickly as possible. Opening the oil filter will expose any issues with metallic particles or gunk lumps. If it doesn't have any issues I would drop back to a once yearly or every 5K  oil service with a high mileage synthetic motor oil.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 04:51 pm
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JAMMAN

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I'm cheap lol I think it's a little expensive. It is worth it if it is in great shape, but you really can't tell.

I have seen engines with 180000 on them that don't burn oil and run super. I have seen engines with 120000 miles that are totally destroyed.

If you need to get it going quickly that might be a good deal. Especially if it is a 99 engine, if it is a 98 and your truck is a 2000 you will need some sensors off your original engine.

I hope it works out and good luck! Let us know how it turns out, post here if you run into any issues we can probably help.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Sun Apr 11th, 2021 05:18 pm
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Thanks everyone, not sure what I will do but its being considered.

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 Posted: Mon Apr 12th, 2021 06:02 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
I have seen engines with 180000 on them that don't burn oil and run super. I have seen engines with 120000 miles that are totally destroyed.

I had a buddy the bought a 78 F-100 4x4 new  and worked 3 miles from where he lived. It was 11 years old with 62k miles when it sucked a valve.  This truck had the oil changed every 2k miles and was sludged up. I helped him rebuild the 400M with a cam that offered more low end tq, bored 30 over, new pistons, and worked heads. My buddy bought a cheap Ford Escort to travel to work. Two years latter he was getting a divorce and I got a good deal on the truck.  I put 160k on it the next 9 years and sold it with the engine just as strong as when I got it.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 12th, 2021 10:27 pm
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JAMMAN

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The distance might have been the problem. Condensation can't evaporate if the engine doesn't reach temp and hang there for a few minutes.

My Wife's CRV has a factory issue that if it doesn't get warm enough it gets gas in the oil. Tons of reports of the oil getting higher as time goes by. The rich condition during startup especially in cold states gets pushed by the rings and can't evaporate quick enough if the oil never gets hot.

Hers has not realized the problem, but it got us a free unlimited warranty on the engine! Just the affected parts... crank, rods, pistons and valvetrain.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
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 Posted: Tue Apr 13th, 2021 01:20 pm
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It was. When the first owner had the truck the temp gauge never had a chance to move before he shut it down. When I got it I was driving 28 miles down an interstate to work.  Most of my miles were highway.



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