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All ideas are welcome.       #: 2282
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 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2020 03:33 pm
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squirrelhunter
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I'm trying to change the fuel pump on my '94 Ranger 4x4 and of course I'm having fits with the lock ring that holds it in the tank. I've only changed a sending unit once back in the 80s on my '72 Gran Torino and I had to bend the hold down things up a little to get it to break free. It at least had a metal tank instead of plastic,I'm scared to do that much on this one because it might crack the tank. I've already stripped off 2 of the tabs on it trying to unlock it. The other 2 tabs I can't get to very well because they're towards the cab and bed. I may have to take the bed completely off but I doubt it'd help. I can't really afford a new tank and I think I'd have to replace the hold down straps too,which 1 of them is already rusted off I think. Any ideas on what I can do to get the lock ring loosened? I've got it soaking in WD40 and liquid wrench overnight to see if that'll help any but as rusted as it is I sort of doubt that'll even help.  I thought maybe you guys had a trick I hadn't thought of or knew of something real good at dissolving rust.Any ideas is appreciated. I told my wife I may have to sell it and buy a Dodge,jokingly of course,she knows how much I hate Dodges :frd .
I should note,it's not like the newer ones with the plastic lock rings,it's like the older ones with a metal lock ring.

Last edited on Wed Nov 18th, 2020 04:54 pm by squirrelhunter



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 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2020 06:25 pm
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I have a brass 14" 3/8 extension that I used as a punch after soaking for two days. Once you do have it moving hit it with some compressed air  to blow away any debris.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2020 06:38 pm
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squirrelhunter
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I've got a brass punch I can use,I don't know why I didn't think of it today. I'll let it soak a couple if days.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2020 05:32 am
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JAMMAN

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Good suggestion, hope you have it soaking in oil. You could try the end of a hammer, the wooden end smack the hammer with another hammer. As long as it don't throw a spark you will be OK.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2020 09:27 am
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410customs

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what these guys said is spot on
Just had a chevy 1500 here 2004 model... holy smokes metal fuel pump with metal lock ring in plastic tank. I have never seen one rusted that badly
First off clean up all the dirt and debris, for me it took compressed air followed by a hand brush and plenty of PB blaster, I mean there was so much crud built up I didnt even know there was a lock ring for the first few days of soaking...finally got all the mud and rust out of the way so we could see what we were dealing with. All fittings on the stock pump just snapped right off, rust...dang chevy? metal on metal with some metal right where the tire kicks up road goo... it was a mess. 
Anyways the key was to clean the area (just like they said) and then SOAK IT in oil, blaster, atf, anything to help get some lubrication in there, let it sit! clean the area some more.. and then use a drift and hammer. nothing metal on metal as a spark when working on a fuel tank is not a good thing (just like these guys said)
I like PB blaster myself, it seems to work really well as a cleaner and lubricant, penetrating oil, etc
In my 88 BII after dropping the tank about 10 times (have owned the truck a long time) I finally cut a hole in the floor and made an access panel... now I can reach my fuel pump in minutes not hours



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 Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2020 01:30 pm
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squirrelhunter
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I just picked up some PB Blaster today and sprayed it down good. I'll use a hand brush on it too,thanks for the suggestion. Yeah this 1 is extremely rusty too,metal lock ring and metal pump in a plastic tank also,what a bad engineering idea,but I know they don't care because they don't fix them. I just hope I can get it out without damaging the tank,sounds like it'll be a few days project instead of a few hours lol. I've already got several hours in it   :'(.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 09:47 am
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410customs

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fun!! You can do it
With a big enough hammer that ring will come loose
Make SURE you are spinning it the correct direction



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 11:26 am
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VelociRanger
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squirrelhunter wrote:
I just picked up some PB Blaster today and sprayed it down good. 
It has been my experience that WD40 works better on super stuck stuff. But, everyone has their choice and it works best for them. Hey, maybe spray it with everything and make a super concoction lol. Best of luck, Maybe try tapping it on the top all the way around to bust up some rust. That's helped me before too.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 12:44 pm
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squirrelhunter
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I've got WD40,Liquid Wrench,PB Blaster and 2 or 3 other silicone lubricating sprays. A few years ago I was trying to take the water pump off the '94 F150 and all but a couple of the bolts were rusted solid. I tried all the sprays I had especially the WD40 and PB Blaster and nothing worked. I eventually had to get a super long small drill bit and drill them out. Those bolts were around 4 " long if I remember right. I let this soak in WD40 the first day,now I'm using PB Blaster.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 12:53 pm
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squirrelhunter
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410customs wrote:
fun!! You can do it
With a big enough hammer that ring will come loose
Make SURE you are spinning it the correct direction

I think I've got a big enough hammer,it's the ball-peen hammer I use to use at the factory for driving stuff apart or together,some of those screw jacks we built took some incentive to cooperate at times,especially the 35 ton and bigger jacks ;-) .
I'm pretty sure on the direction too,counter clockwise. :-)



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 02:42 pm
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squirrelhunter
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If I do need to replace the tank,where can I find the information on which tank it is and what the capacity is? I've looked online and so far all I've found is for Rangers with 4 cyl and the 3.0 6 cyl,not the Super cab or extended cab or whatever it's called with the 4.0 like I have?



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 04:08 pm
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VelociRanger
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On my first gen the capacity is stamped on the tank. May try looking for it, I also know that you can sometimes find it with the right vin search. I'll try to find the website I used.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 04:24 pm
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squirrelhunter
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Ok,thanks.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 09:09 pm
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VelociRanger
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What's the specs on the Ranger? 2.3, 3.0, 4.0...? Single cab, long bed...?


https://fueltankcap.com/ford/ranger/1994

Last edited on Fri Nov 20th, 2020 09:13 pm by VelociRanger



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2020 09:24 pm
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Tsquare
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Single cab 2004 is 16 gallons and engine doesn't matter. When I had the bed off I took some measurements and hit the junkyard looking to wedge a larger tank in. Everything I found was too wide or two inches too long. I even got a welder acquaintance to give me a quote on a custom aluminum 22ish gal fuel cell - $250-350 for parts and he wanted another $100 to put it together. I will live with the small tank.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2020 09:17 am
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squirrelhunter
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VelociRanger wrote:
What's the specs on the Ranger? 2.3, 3.0, 4.0...? Single cab, long bed...?


https://fueltankcap.com/ford/ranger/1994

4x4 with 2 door extended cab and 4.0 automatic trans.

Last edited on Sat Nov 21st, 2020 09:21 am by squirrelhunter



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2020 09:23 am
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VelociRanger
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The link lists the sizes for all configurations



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2020 11:33 am
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squirrelhunter
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I didn't even notice the link lol.Thanks.
Oh,that's the 1 I looked at,it doesn't list 1 with the 4.0 though.

Last edited on Sat Nov 21st, 2020 11:34 am by squirrelhunter



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2020 11:41 am
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VelociRanger
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I would assume you have the 20 gallon one. All of the extended cabs have the 20 gallon, and all single cabs have the 16



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2020 11:52 am
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squirrelhunter
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You're probably right,hopefully I can get the pump out without damaging the tank and not needing to replace it in the first place,time will tell. Thanks again for the help.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 24th, 2020 05:55 pm
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squirrelhunter
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Update: Well I've been soaking it in WD40 and PB Blaster for 5 days now,brushing and blowing it off,trying to drive it around with a punch and hammer to the point that 2 tabs are completely gone and the other 2 are almost gone. I tapped on it around the top too along with trying to drive it with the edge,guess what,it still won't move.  I've looked it up and out of the top 9 rust penetrating lubricants,WD40 ranks 9th and PB Blaster ranks 3rd. I ordered what they say is number 1 on 2 different lists https://www.ebay.com/itm/352779186421  and also some smaller brass punches and brass pliers to try and bend the locking things apart a little if nothing else works. I'm getting very frustrated with this thing.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 24th, 2020 07:21 pm
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VelociRanger
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This an interesting video, may be worth a watch. Stay calm man, nothing good happens when you mix frustration/working on cars. You can do it!



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Tue Nov 24th, 2020 08:34 pm
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squirrelhunter
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Thanks.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2020 02:15 am
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VelociRanger
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Maybe upload a video/pictures so we can all see what you're working with, maybe someone will see something you're missing



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2020 09:14 am
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410customs

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its just frozen with rust
keep tapping on it, keep soaking it!
perhaps find somebody parting out a ranger locally see if you can get another tank cheap?



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