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Door panel liners       #: 429
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX, Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Fri Dec 29th, 2017 09:01 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Looks like the driver door on my DD has been replaced at one point. When I put the lock motors in Isaw no rust inside at all and it had different color clips than the passenger side.

All good and well BUT that plastic and sticky stuff liner that is usually between the door shell and the panel just isn't there and looks like it never has been.

It is notably noisier than the passenger door, hearing a lot of outside stuff.

I can't find one and I am used to finding things LOL. What are these called so maybe I have a chance of finding one?

ALSO has anyone ever put sound deadening spray or other things in the door for quieting? I know "it isn't a luxury car" but there has to be something you can do to hear the radio better without massive amplification.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 29th, 2017 10:58 pm
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buggman

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 last year i did a redneck sound deadening in my ranger, used that gracie wide adhesive flashing from lowes. it's super sticky & has a little weight to it. not nearly as dense & heavy as real sound deadening material, but it was cheap & so am I so it worked out nicely ha!
i've seen some car audio rednecks spray expanding foam in the pillars & places to lessen road noise too. not sure how i feel about trying it myself though.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 29th, 2017 11:51 pm
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MaDMaXX

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 They're called door liners/plastic sheet/weather guards etc. etc. - depends on manufacturer.

Anyway, it's nice to have a factory unit, Ford should be able to pull up the part for you, but if you can't get it, it's literally just a thick plastic sheet, semi permanent glued to the door inside.


As for sound deadening, i used to help my Dad in the 80's 90's doing that to all door interiors, they were terrible back then, so yes, worth doing.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 08:35 am
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Mike69

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 Jim IIRC from my many years in the automotive business they are called water shields. When I covered the inside of the doors in my 69 Mustang I used Frost King duct insulation, very sticky & it is supposed to stay where you put it even with changes in temp. LMC Truck sells them but only for the older 83-88 Rangers. The price is only $19.95, it be worth buying them & see if you could adapt them to your Ranger.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 01:10 pm
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mhoward
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 Another term for that is "moisture barrier". Should be the same clear up to 2011 model, which the dealer should still be able to get for you. No salvage yards close by?



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 01:16 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Rangers are a rare commodity here and get stripped almost instantly. Insanely popular and it is much too cold LOL.
Thanks for all the suggestions I have some leads to follow.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 01:50 pm
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mhoward
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 If all else fails, you can fab your own out of some 6mil plastic...



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 04:03 pm
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Scrambler82
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 Captain Obvious here !

While the panel is off and you are cutting plastic sheet to fit... consider the Fat Mat, a Sound Deadening Material, or any Sound Deadening Material, easier now than later !


Ltr



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 04:20 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Googled Fat Mat and it looks like exactly what I was looking for! Too bad I'll have to re finance the house wow that stuff is expensive!



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 04:56 pm
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mhoward
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 That is what keeps me from doing it to my truck. Just ridiculous what it costs.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 08:20 pm
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 The Fat Mat was pricey, but for inside the doors I used Frost King duct insulation which is a sticky backed foil faced foam. It is 12" wide roll x 15' long x 1/8" thick for $18.77 @ Home Depot & Lowes. From that one roll I was able to do the inside of both doors & the trunk divider panel which is behind the rear seat back in the Mustang.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 11:06 pm
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 I have used Dynamat in the 12"x36" roll in a couple of vehicles. I have been thinking about doing that to the Ranger. It does make a huge difference.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 11:20 pm
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mhoward
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 DynaMat is hella expensive also.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 31st, 2017 08:09 am
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JAMMAN

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 I'm going to see if I can swing it for my DD. I have a passenger side seal I'm chasing down, funny thing it doesn't leak water even during car washes but I can hear a kenworth passing me like he is in my cab and if he lays on the engine brake I poop my pants.

You would swear there is a big hole in the door somewhere but there is not and all the gaskets seem to be there. Different thread lol.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 04:59 pm
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Kealel
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 Got a little red parts truck with both seals, not that anybody asked...:whatever:



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 05:10 pm
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mhoward
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 Thought you got rid of that after you stripped it.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 08:14 pm
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 mhoward wrote: Thought you got rid of that after you stripped it.See, the thing is I haven't exactly stripped it yet...



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 09:09 pm
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mhoward
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 Ah, okay. My bad! :)



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 10:20 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Kealel wrote: mhoward wrote: Thought you got rid of that after you stripped it.See, the thing is I haven't exactly stripped it yet...

Well when you do, see if those door liners will roll up and fit into a flat rate large box LOL.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2018 12:25 am
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MaDMaXX

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 Details....



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 Posted: Sun Feb 11th, 2018 11:05 pm
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Scrambler82
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 JAMMAN wrote: Googled Fat Mat and it looks like exactly what I was looking for! Too bad I'll have to re finance the house wow that stuff is expensive!

Sorry I just got back to this thread.


What has happen to the doors and the Water Barrier ?


I did the Fat Mat route and need to finish it up on the door and roof but so far it has quieted the cab a lot, cant wait to finish but I do not remember it costing too much, in fact it was cheaper than almost any other things that were available five years ago !


Seats coming out soon to replace the carpeting so I will run some more wires for the stereo.



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Feb 11th, 2018 11:09 pm
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Scrambler82
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 I was re-reading this thread, notice that Fat Mat has gone up in price and JAMMAN gets a lot of noise.

Jim was thinking, what about your door gaskets, and your window upper seal, both can allow a lot of noise in.

when I crank up my windows I need to push back on the glass to get it to seal up, if I don't the noise inside is a lot more.

Maybe your upper window seal is worn out or the window guides are worn out like mine !



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 02:43 am
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 For sound deadener I use raam audio. I did the entire cab of lightning



http://www.raamaudio.com/



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 Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 11:59 am
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 Would adding a piece of Sound Deadening Material to the Door's inside/outer panel, help with noise ?


I was thinking of doing this when I do the power window swap.



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Mar 19th, 2018 08:03 am
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NewShockerGuy
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 I did my entire interior with RAAMAT. Cheaper than other things out there but just as good. I did my doors first and I can tell you that they close now with a considerable "clunk" Very solid. I did the floor, ceiling (what I could around the sunroof), and back panel behind the seats. I then used their foam on top of the RAAMAT ensolite. The entire cabin is much quieter and I will add that it also holds heat in better during winter and holds cold in better during summer when AC/blower is on. It also helps if you close off any open holes. There is a rather large one in the door panel. Use a piece of sheet metal and screw it in then cover with sound deadening material and it will be a lot more quiet.

I'm glad I did it to my truck a couple years back.

-Nigel



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