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Technical Spec Help       #: 2112
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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2020 11:16 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 I got a CEL on the other day and so I went to Walmart to get a code reader, well they had this Bluetooth one called the “Hypertough HT200” that was fairly cheap and seemed good. Well, if anyone is interested and good with stuff like that I will consider purchasing one and sending it to you so you can check it out. I've kinda got it figured out, but someone who is more knowledgeable in that area may find it more beneficial. If anyone can look at these screenshots and tell me if all of the data displayed looks good, that would be appreciated. Also, the CEL is P0128- thermostat stuck open, so I'm not extremely concerned about it at the moment.




























As a side note, these readings were taken with the engine off key on. The first two are just captures of when the CEL came one, which is cool that the app does that and picks that up.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 08:17 am
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Tsquare
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 I would change the thermostat and reset the codes then sit back to see what happens. Except for your code and operating temperature everything seems normal to me. But I may be wrong...



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Tony
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'04 XLT regular cab 3.slo stepside
Semi retirement
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 11:57 am
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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 You have a couple things going on.

Like Tony said, replace the thermostat, let it warm up till it is definitely in closed loop, re take the readings. You can save them as PDF and attach them in one piece with the native attachment button in the full post editor.

The long term trims should be almost zero but the readings are useless if the engine isn't to temp and in closed loop.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 01:29 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 English please....lol



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 02:12 pm
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Tsquare
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 1) Replace the thermostat
2) drive until it get up to operating temperature
3) Take reading with ODBII
    a) select Edit and there should be a Save or Save As then select the PDF option
    b) take saved PDF and export to PC then upload results



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Tony
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Semi retirement
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 02:18 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 The thermostat is at the back of the engine so it may be a minute before I feel up to it, or it could be tomorrow idk we just got the baby home yesterday. Now, the engine was warm when I got the data that you guys can see so I'm not following 100%....sorry, if it involves a wrench or muscle I'm good in 99% of cases but with the technical stuff I'm not the sharpest crayon in the box



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 06:46 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Are you sure.... I have never owned a 2.3 ranger but I have owned 2.5's, 3.0 and 4.0 every thermostat I have seen is in the front.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2020 08:21 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 You're correct...it's on the front. I prove my point lol



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Thu Apr 30th, 2020 10:26 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 The CEL went away....? The truck must be confused lol.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 01:48 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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 After a few start cycles if it doesn't see a problem the light will go off. Did you replace the thermostat?



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 01:59 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 No I haven't yet, I planned on it and then when the light went off I forgot about it but I'll get one to replace in case the light comes back on. I also need to do a coolant flush because it has the wrong type of coolant in it, maybe that has something to do with it too.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 03:10 pm
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Tsquare
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 What type of coolant did you use?



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Tony
NE ATL
'04 XLT regular cab 3.slo stepside
Semi retirement
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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 05:09 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 I've never done the coolant before because it's never given me any problems, but it's green



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 07:22 am
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Tsquare
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 Green is good. It is not the Euro Blue or Toyota Red - they all do not play well together. 

I would replace the thermostat (less than $15 for thermostat and gasket) and do a garden hose water flush. Run water till it runs clear. Be sure to "burp" the hoses to get all of the air out. Top off the radiator and bring the level to Max on the overflow tank and dive it for a few days and then do it a second time. Keep close tabs on your water level. At any time with plain water you get the P0128 it would be time to look closer.  If all gauges read correct and no CEL codes then I would flush and add the Prestone 50/50.

I see you are in Texas. If you are just using as a daily driver and not hauling or towing loads there should be no issues with water in the coolant system for a few days. A 50/50 mix will be more efficient cooling your engine and you need the freeze protection for next winter.

Last edited on Sun May 3rd, 2020 07:22 am by Tsquare



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Tony
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Semi retirement
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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 09:44 am
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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 Okay, but is doing a coolant flush on the cap less radiator with the degas bottle type of system thing the same as doing one on a regular type of cooling system? Sorry if that sounds dumb, but I can't find any actual how to-s on how to do it



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1997 Ranger Ex Cab Manual 4.0 2wd, dead on arrival. Hopefully reviving for a daily driver.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 10:41 am
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Tsquare
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 Drain radiator and overflow tank, make sure you have the heat on inside the cab. The drain petcock should be on the opposite side of the lower radiator hose. Once all fluid is drained, close petcock and fill radiator with water and overflow to max reading. To "burp" the system keep the radiator cap off and squeeze the upper radiator hose. It will force air out of the top of the system. The hose should get firm when it is full of fluid. Put the cap back on and drive it around until it is up to temperature and the heater is blowing hot air.

Let the system cool completely and do it a second time. And possibly a third time before you fill it with antifreeze.



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Tony
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'04 XLT regular cab 3.slo stepside
Semi retirement
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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 01:49 pm
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Eddie Money
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 Careful using a radiator flush kit. In older vehicles you could flush all the radiator sediment into the block and possibly plug the water galleys, over heat and crack heads... I speak from experience... lol



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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