Electric Fan Wiring Diagram - Electrical Tech - Tech Section

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Posted: Mon Jan 25th, 2021 07:13 pm

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Arthur
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So,

I'm dealing with a seized fan clutch and was thinking about switching to an e-fan setup.
Probably getting a flex-a-lite, there's the Taurus fan but they cause a big A spike on startup.

I could just go with a one relay temp probe system but why do simple when you can overcomplicate things right?? ;-)

So I made up this little circuit, does it make any sense?
Consider the two SPDT's top left as a DPDT on-off-on with the OFF not pictured
Is there a simpler way to do this?(there probably is)

Now this is with "external" LED's that I'd have to integrate in/around the switch/switchpanel but that's going to become bulky and is a bit oldschool.

In come illuminated rocker switches but how do I wire that so when the fan is OFF the switch illuminates red? Ideally then I'd also want it to illuminate in the ON/AUTO positions (I found some dual color rockers) or maybe just always on.
Flex a lite sells a rocker switch thats red when off , no light on auto and blue when on but they want 70 (yes seventy) USbucks for it and it probably onlg works with their $170 controller.

So here I am, overthinking things and curious about advice from the wiring specialists on here.

Oh and there should be a fuse before the fan of course forgot to add that in the diagram

Edit: and now I see that the 12v for the LED relay shouldn't come straight from battery of course but an ignition 12v or something or the red LED will be on all the time with the truck turned off.

Last edited on Mon Jan 25th, 2021 08:53 pm by Arthur

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2007 FX4 Level II auto: new project!

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Posted: Mon Jan 25th, 2021 10:23 pm

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Tsquare
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When I put them on my Lariat I used an aftermarket controller with the duel Volvo fans out of the SUV. The controller had manual over-ride that could be hooked up to the AC clutch or a manual switch. I hooked up an LED to let me know when the fans were on in one of the gauge pods along with an over-ride switch for one of the fans. The two other pods had a temp sensor feeding temp gauges of water coming into the radiator and water leaving the radiator. The intake also supplied the on/off temp to the controllers.

The AC got colder quicker if I turned on the non-AC controlled fan in the summer. It freed up another 10hp and added another half mile per gallon city and 1.6 MPG Hwy. At altitudes less than 3000 feet the fans would not come on in 100 degree weather on the highway.

Your wiring to have the illuminated switches depends on the switch wiring. Some switches only illuminate when the switch is on. Other switches operate on an external control. How much are you willing to spend? LEDs are cheap if you are good with solder.

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Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2021 02:53 am

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12Â° North Industries
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Arthur wrote:
So,

I'm dealing with a seized fan clutch and was thinking about switching to an e-fan setup.
Probably getting a flex-a-lite, there's the Taurus fan but they cause a big A spike on startup.

I could just go with a one relay temp probe system but why do simple when you can overcomplicate things right?? ;-)

So the plan is to be able to switch between always ON, Auto and always OFF plus an A.C. override.
Always ON is always ON duh
AUTO is switched on by temp probe but when A.C. is on fan is always ON
OFF is off.

Now I also want to incorporate a big red LED when it's turned off and a green LED when the fan is running (actually running and not only when it's relay is activated in case a relay malfunctions)
Always ON -> GrnLED always on
Auto --> GrnLED on when fan turns on

So I made up this little circuit, does it make any sense?
Consider the two SPDT's top left as a DPDT on-off-on with the OFF not pictured
Is there a simpler way to do this?(there probably is)

Now this is with "external" LED's that I'd have to integrate in/around the switch/switchpanel but that's going to become bulky and is a bit oldschool.

In come illuminated rocker switches but how do I wire that so when the fan is OFF the switch illuminates red? Ideally then I'd also want it to illuminate in the ON/AUTO positions (I found some dual color rockers) or maybe just always on.
Flex a lite sells a rocker switch thats red when off , no light on auto and blue when on but they want 70 (yes seventy) USbucks for it and it probably onlg works with their $170 controller.

So here I am, overthinking things and curious about advice from the wiring specialists on here.

Oh and there should be a fuse before the fan of course forgot to add that in the diagram

Edit: and now I see that the 12v for the LED relay shouldn't come straight from battery of course but an ignition 12v or something or the red LED will be on all the time with the truck turned off.

Honestly, I could read or decipher all of that if it were in true blueprint form but it doesn't transfer into the creative side of my mind which thinks in relays, diodes, wiring, and switches with an array of motors or devices strewn across a work table for me unfortunately.

Don't use the Taurus fan, the spike is the least of your issues with it, as the E-Fan itself is molded into the shroud pc and if it fails, you have to replace the whole shroud too every time. The way to go is the volvo shroud.

Best Resource for that sadly is -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MXD00Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The fan that goes in it I can't find the part number just yet but I will when I get back into the office Monday afternoon. But that fan is just a little bit better CFM wise and it can be replaced without the need to trash the shroud too. Fan can be sourced from Rockauto, Flex-lite, or others.

When we started out on our E-Fan setup there is a better way out side of that 1950's East Ukranian/Russian switches and lights method clutter. You can spend a few dollars to automate that setup and just use a switch to override for an all Off/On feature and just have a dual throw switch that lights up to do that in at least an option of 4 colors or so and either vertically written or horizontally in many creative manners for far less and great quality.

I would refer you to the following links.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/volvo-electric-cooling-fan/

Following up I can get you all the electrical connector - (manufacture contacts to make the pigtails)
The sensors and relay setup can also be had off of Rockauto

If you wanted to spruce up the job with some better than average Autozone or used Salvage parts, we can offer some options.

https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/water-temperature-sensor-adapter - (38mm)
https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/silicone-lower-radiator-hose-ford-ranger-v6-04-11-by-mishimoto - (lower hose)
https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/silicone-upper-radiator-hose-ford-ranger-v6-01-11-by-mishimoto - (upper hose)

For switching, We do carry the Otrattw switches, there is a ton of work to add them to the site. The margins are small, we are happy to send them customers because they make an amazing quality product line and we use them in our installs. There is a metric-ton of information available from wiring their switches to explaining how they all differ. Many, many options here.

https://www.otrattw.net/home.php

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Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2021 06:27 pm

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Arthur
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12° North Industries
Honestly, I could read or decipher all of that if it were in true blueprint form.

When we started out on our E-Fan setup there is a better way out side of that 1950's East Ukranian/Russian switches and lights method clutter.
What, you don't like my diagram?? Haha
I quickly downloaded a free electric circuit diagram designing app so you wouldn't have to see my hand-drawn sketches.
It's not very intuitive on a phone and the symbols are strange.
This is also after like 10 minutes of experience with it.

Anyway thank's a lot for the links!
I have found a nice switch, funny that was the hardest part of it.
I do have pretty specific requirements for it
That circuit only needs 2 relays now. (On/auto switching relay and fan relay)
I'm adding a relay box anyway for other accessories so this will still be cheaper than buying a premade controller.

Thanks again for the links.

Last edited on Mon Feb 8th, 2021 07:08 pm by Arthur

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Posted: Wed Feb 10th, 2021 03:56 pm

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Arthur wrote:
12° North Industries

Honestly, I could read or decipher all of that if it were in true blueprint form.

When we started out on our E-Fan setup there is a better way out side of that 1950's East Ukranian/Russian switches and lights method clutter.
What, you don't like my diagram?? Haha
I quickly downloaded a free electric circuit diagram designing app so you wouldn't have to see my hand-drawn sketches.
It's not very intuitive on a phone and the symbols are strange.
This is also after like 10 minutes of experience with it.

Anyway thank's a lot for the links!
I have found a nice switch, funny that was the hardest part of it.
I do have pretty specific requirements for it
That circuit only needs 2 relays now. (On/auto switching relay and fan relay)
I'm adding a relay box anyway for other accessories so this will still be cheaper than buying a premade controller.

Thanks again for the links.
Do you do water crossings? I guess I am curious as to where the need is to have a manual switch unless it's to turn the E-fan off or if you're running forced induction setup and you wanted to do the poor-mans version of a turbo timer?

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Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2021 07:21 am

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Arthur
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For water crossings yes.
And a forced on to have some flow over trans cooler when crawling in summer for example, or working hauling wood/pulling trees.

Also because it's fun and for the sake of tinkering.
It's -15F here work outside is not fun at the moment.
Wiring projects I can do indoors, or at least start them.

A simple temp probe setup would work great, probably run all the time when crawling and cool the tranny too and I could always pull a fuse before water crossings, but where's the fun in that? :)

Last edited on Thu Feb 11th, 2021 07:21 am by Arthur

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Posted: Sat Feb 13th, 2021 10:16 pm

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Having a DBL throw switch that could interrupt/override the circuit would be all that would be needed. One way turns it off for water crossing so you dont crack a blade and pull the other way to turn it on for an extended period of time. You could take that a step further by wiring up a latching relay and a 555 timer so that when the key turned off, it would latch a relay open/closed, depending on your circuit tastes, and then the 555 timer I think can run for up to 2:45 (2 mins, 45 secs), and then auto shut off.. THE poor mans turbo timer function essentially.

As for the Trans cooling.. You could extremely benefit from removing the Autotrans cooling from the internal radiator and go to an external solution. This would prevent SMOD (just google Nissan SMOD) preventing a future catastrophe, and by adding an external cooling source you can not only increase cooling efficiency with a larger surface area but in some cases use a smaller fan, far less power used, think of it as upgrading your current radiator to a 3 core, then adding dual 10" fans, all while adding in a low temp thermostat too.

Just a product consideration or a jumping off point;

Kit
- https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/mishimoto-heavy-duty-transmission-cooler-with-electric-fan

Cooler only
- https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/universal-transmission-fluid-cooler-12-x-7-5-x-0-75-by-mishimoto
- https://www.12degnorth.com/product-page/universal-transmission-fluid-cooler-15-x-7-5-x-0-75-by-mishimoto

All in all, between many upgrades, Radiator core size, fluid types, internal vs external cooling components, single/multiple E-Fans there are a gaggle of metrics to consider depending on what you're looking for in the end.

Not sure where you live, but our Ranger rig's cooling/electrical systems had to be upgraded. Mostly due to strain/over working condition concerns, being out in the desert or dozens of miles away from civilization if you will.

In summer here in Vegas, average ambient temps are around 115*+. Throw in slow speeds in low gears, and up/down hills, A/C on some times or a considered metric of just being able to. We wanted to make sure nothing had a choke point for more than simple reliability, more like Non-failure demands. We are fortunate enough to have a manual trans, although the thought of a an external pump and cooler was brought up by our team, I think we may tap the trans for a trans-temp meter before that comes to fruition.

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Posted: Sun Feb 14th, 2021 09:40 am

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Ordinary Biker
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I think the replacemnt trans cooler is an outstanding idea, specially if you feel that trans temps are an issue in your application. I think the stock one does an OK job in everyday activities, but cooler is always better. Specially if you are pushing it.

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Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2021 06:16 pm

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Scrambler82
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Arthur wrote:

Arthur,

How is this coming along ?

p.s. I do agree with 12⁰ NI on a simplier circuit.

Last edited on Tue Oct 26th, 2021 06:17 pm by Scrambler82

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