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View single post by Undrstm8ed | |||||||||
Posted: Tue Feb 13th, 2018 03:20 am |
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Undrstm8ed Seasoned... ![]() Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Near The Pointy End , USA
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Nice writeup.. I do like the way you added in some personal observational notes from experiences in to it. If I could add.. - The amount of "mechanical" interruptions should be kept to a minimum. by that I mean connection points. The more mechanical interference's there are the more resistance it adds to the circuit therefore may require the next size up of wire may be best. - I also recommend that unless you're being crafty to install a relay inside one of the empty slots in your under hood fuse box to protect it from corrosion or the elements in general, under hood washings and detergents, grease, fuel, etc.. You would be better mounting the relay in the cab. Can you do it under the hood, absolutely just keep in mind especially today with the advent of way cheaper Chinese or in general cheap components, not all relays are Potter & Brumfields, Bosch, or equivalent. The other reason is heat factors. I know many of us would be a bit smarter and try not to mount a relay hanging over an exhaust manifold but man if back in the day of installation and DIY repairs if i had a camera on me like I do today.. I would have some stories for many to read and go "WTF !". - Fuses should be kept under 14" from the battery regardless of fuse rating or current draw. - One thing I noticed you didnt point out unless I missed it is the use of connectors, solder, or good ole' twist and tape. ALL are good connections if done right, some last longer in harsher environments or use than others, choose wisely for your needs. - Also if you're only planning on doing a single or a pair of lights, maybe even a third for a backup light, whatever. the simplicity scrambler showed was excellent in review. However, IF you are going to be running a gambit of lights; and when i say gambit I mean.
You can run a fused power and a ground in to it and run all lines back and forth to a switch panel and a relay bank setup. OR the alternative, the SPOD/NSA units and then you have a switch panel that comes with these units and onboard relay systems, all you're really doing is running wires to each light positive and negative and main power and ground.. Done. No messy wiring 30 18 ga wires to and from. MOSFET powered relays. over the top but meh, some people like that. Just look at the JEEP crowd. I could share a little light more on this later if its okay with Scrambler (?) in this post to keep things in one place, in two different examples soon.
____________________ "Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown "The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker "Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD)) Roman courtier during the reign of Nero. "Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine ~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg. ~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg. . |
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