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Seasoned...
Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Near The Pointy End , USA
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So back to the original post. With things either on order still to get me to the next level or that next step, things just in a small holding pattern monetarily. I decided that I was tired of moving some large pieces of Birch plywood around so I decided to rough cut some of the layers for the sub enclosure/electronics rack so I could at least take up less real estate in some ways and still show some progress to keep those interested.. well still interested.
A while back I yanked nearly everything audio wise out of the truck shy of the tablet and a bluetooth temporary speaker, sold what was worth selling and tossed everything else in favor of a slow revamp.
Now someone undoubtedly is going to tell me I should have used MDF because its the most dense wood.. blah, blah, blah..
Ya.. I know.. typically I would for someone looking to pass a kidney through their colon purposes or SPL nuts. But I am not making a ground pounder, the subwoofer is a single 8" Diamond Audio CM3 series with about 400watts from a ARC Audio amp. The birch plywood will also have a more warmer-live sound to it in a natural sense and in a musical sense or for Sound Q properties that's better than one note bass from a dense dead wood made mostly of sawdust soaked in formaldehyde and compressed with glue. May not mean much to some but it matters to me.
It's also why I chose to use a NON-toxic material for sound deadening and heat rejection for the inner door skins, cab roof, and floorboard and what will be used in the bed in replacement of the typical bed liner material because they actually put off toxic fumes when exposed to high temperatures or direct sunlight itself.
With the Flip-Pac being basically a living quarters when needed and living in 118° summer temps here in Vegas a couple months of the year and camping in those months isn't something I want to subject my body to nor my significant other if she camps along.
Trust me when I say 25 years ago seeing this specific post I'd been looking at myself as if I had two heads too on some subjects.
Anyway.. back on topic.
Here you can see the basic layers being applied as I rough cut them out into smaller size. The base layer itself also has a double 0.50" layers that make up a more finished leading edge below the base layer itself and then two studs and two 1.25" x 6" Aluminum standoffs that I will have to cut down to appropriate size and they will be lag bolted into the front corners for front support and stability.
Not only with this give support but it will also allow the down firing subwoofer to breath correctly without suffocating itself. Ideally the second layer is mostly a standard layer with a ring in it that allows the subwoofer to be flush mounted in it while the base layer itself will have a fully radiused (SP?) lip to allow good airflow and no "huffing" effects.
The subwoofer will be bolted into this ring via T-bolts to insure its seal and allow for any servicing the woofer may need. The inside of the box will also be designed to eliminate any standing waves inside as well. More on the actual design and techniques as we move forward.
Now the layers will all be identically cut and shaped on the exterior with the leading edge at an 8° beveled edge with a router bit to mimic the natural seat position and to keep inline the character of a seat. As you can see here with my "PMG" [poor mans gauge] gauge here; approximately fifteen layers of 0.75" birch ply are going to be used to create this enclosure cavity and at least two of those layers with allow for additional cross bracing even though the enclosure is relatively small parameters.
Simple mock up to give the idea a better understanding of whats going on here in the sense of the back plate, base plate, and the layers themselves again in the first two pics.
The third pic below that gives you an idea of the forward shape between the seats so the least amount of leg room was needed to be sacrificed. I don't mind not being to recline back much after spending so much track time in DTM style race seats and 5 point harnesses but I need room to shift and move about comfortably.
I decided to make my own custom router table and pretty much its coming in 4 pieces not including the ridiculously priced Porter Cable router I am still weighing out if I want the PC 690 or the PC 890. If anyone has any experience with either of those routers, I'd be interested in your opinions of either.
So as those pieces rotate in to my hands and I make the couple templates needed to get the best results.. as usual, I will do my best not to disappoint.
As always thanks for looking and for those of you new to my build page, welcome.
____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown
"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker
"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.
"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine
~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.
~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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