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View single post by JAMMAN | |||||||||
Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2021 12:55 pm |
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JAMMAN Owns A Torsen ![]() Joined: Mon Sep 18th, 2017
Posts: 6429
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I drain them every time I can. You can vacuum from the bleeder, pressurize the master cylinder (slightly). Back when master cylinders were steel reservoir pressure worked the best. Last time I did it and I'm facing this soon again, I put a small rubber hose over the bleeder and cracked it slightly. Then I started the truck and slowly pumped the brakes looking at the plastic coke bottle watching the brown crap and floaties come from the line. Takes longer this way, but if slightly cracked it has to build a little pressure to squirt. I think this carries the bubbles better plus when you let off it only pulls a little back from the line and a lot from the master cylinder. Put a little brake fluid in the bottle first and make sure the tube is under the fluid, that way there is no chance of sucking a bubble back in. Fill reservoir frequently duh. If the bleeder screw is real loose in the hole to the point there is no partial open, pull it out and put some PTFE tape on it so it don't suck air thru the threads. On a Ranger, bleed right rear first, left rear, right front and left front in that order. I do this unless I'm in a hurry then I get someone for the "pump it up. Now hold it" method which requires 2 people. I had one of those check valve bottles but it failed the first time I used it. Aside from Vacuum bleeding the method described above works the best. My brakes are always solid after doing it this way.
____________________ 00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño 01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver The future belongs to those who show up. |
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