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View single post by Junglejoe | |||||||||
Posted: Tue Sep 1st, 2020 07:04 pm |
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Junglejoe![]() Joined: Tue Jun 30th, 2020
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Ok , so a.little update about pushrod measuring.. I talked to an engine shop who builds race engines. No, this is not a race engine, but same principle applies on pushrods.. If you are using a pumped lifter, solid lifter, or frozen up lifter when measuring for pushrod length you DO add.050 to the overall length. I had a couple "shops" say you dont add anything.. ok... So if thats the case, if you use a solid lifter, then you take away the .025-.060 for lifter compression.. your new pushrods you just ordered will be short. That's what the race shop tells me and several other engine dudes. I ordered plus .050 for my pushrods. I ordered 6.800 pushrods. Which with Twisted Wedge heads is odd but couple other's have had to use that length as well. I tried everthing from 6.600-6.900 with the Adjustable Pushrod tool.. the witness mark left in the center of the valve was perfect, under .040 width with 6.750 length with a pumped lifter..then you add the .050 to the length for the lifter compression. On my engine build, its not to crazy. In fact its nothing exotic at all. Good top end on a bone stock 142k explorer engine. Lots of port work and a small baby cam that will sound like a lion but is actually a small kitten. Able to drive across country. Qhich is why I built the truck.. to run back and forth to Florida when I go visit Family and just have a nice daily driver versus buying one and it tear up a couple months later. Sold my 6.0 powerstroke that was my daily that became a money pit. That build got carried away.. 11 inch lift, 37's, 600hp and 1100tq.. crew cab long bed .. just way to much truck for me.
____________________ 2000 EFI 302 Zspec T5 swap ranger |
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