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It is a pressure fit to the rail on the bottom of the frame. It will work with most pistols that have a rail. It is not extremely stable but is good for center of mass at 25 yards during multiple quick re-acquire shots. If I take my time I can make consistent 50 yard shots with it on my 45GAP, I haven't tried it with the 10mm at that distance.
I have a buddy that has just set up a custom gun shop (he is still waiting on the paperwork for his FFL). He is the owner/manager/CNC programmer and has 4 part-time gunsmiths doing custom works for their specialties (Walther/Glock/S&W polymer, S&W Revolver/AR, 1911/AR, and Ruger/AR). My Glock 20SF will be the test piece for the large frame Glocks. He is getting more popular setups first but he has told me it should be late August when he gets to mine. He is going to round the edges, add side serrations the length of the side, a RMR cut for my optic, and possible inner shaving for weight reduction and some decorative cuts to show off the stainless barrel.
If the CNC takes off like he wants he will also be doing scroll work for BBQ guns. I have a stainless S&W model 65 that was a LEO gun that has lots of holster wear but the cylinder, forcing cone, and barrel look brand new. I picked it up for $350 shipped to my FFL a few years back when a fair to good condition Model 65 was selling in the high 500 to mid 600 dollar range. I would spend another $350 to get the scratches and the last 4 of the serial number that was etched into the side frame covered up with fancy scroll work. I would splurge to put a set of burl grips on it if this works out.
awesome! I hope he does well. CNC work around these parts is very popular. Guy I grew up with, he owns a gun shop now, and his specialty is silencers and laser etching. he sells all the usual stuff, but the laser etching is like printing money for himself, and he has like a 2 month wait list.
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1998 Mazda B4000
Mesa, AZ