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Idahome
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the most lift you can do is 1.5-1.75" in the front and still be able to bring the camber back into spec with a eccentric camber adjuster on the upper ball joint.
Skyjacker makes a 2" coil and shock kit for the TTB that is perfect for this, we yield exactly 1.75" of lift with the skyjacker 2" coil on the last two trucks I put them on. Exactly the right amount of coil and camber correction for an otherwise stock suspension.
Anything over 2" and you will need drop brackets for the radius arms and beam pivots
Drop brackets are weak when they get over 4" tall
So it is best to use a combo of parts, like 2" drop brackets and a 4" lift coil.....then you can still bring the camber back into spec
All of these things are simply lifting your truck frame up away from the suspension so you can fit larger tires. Not improving your ride at all. The best way to improve the ride (and front end geometry) is to add extended radius arms. With extended radius arms you will need at least 3-4" of suspension lift. The extended arms change the arc of travel of the front TTB beams, improving the arc so the suspension cycles more cleanly and the trucks handling is improved immensely over stock
So now we are into a front TTB suspension with at least 3-4" of lift, 2" drop brackets and extended radius arms. This will yield 10-12" of clean 4x4 suspension travel and ride very nicely without the weak 4-6" tall drop brackets. I f you want more lift coil then this or more 4x4 wheel travel it would then be time to consider modified TTB beams, cut and turned beams, trussed beams, beams that re locate the lower ball joint outward so that camber can remain in spec while not adding more drop at the beam pivots.
My Bronco II ttb setup:
2" James Duff axle pivot drop brackets. I am lucky enough to have an early set of duff axle pivot brackets, the drivers side beam pivot bracket is cast, these are very strong.
Skyjacker extended radius arms and transmission cross member, modified to push the axle forward 1" per side
Skyjacker 6" lift coils, I also added F150 spring seats because my old lift coils are worn out and sag (worn coils ride nicely and flex good!).
Custom cut and turned dana 35 ttb beams...we built jigs, hacked up the beams, cut plates and re enforced the beams. These beams are 1.5" wider per side then stock and have a 3" cut and turn built into them. Allows me to run a 6" lift coil with only a 2" drop bracket. Custom spicer d44 axle shaft was used on passenger side for the additional 3" of track width
My front suspension with 5-6" of lift over stock flexes 14-15" cleanly at the wheel and rides WAAAY better then any factory TTB truck ever dreamed of. I run Rancho 9000 shocks, no sway bar, ABR locker, and 97 Ranger outers with dual piston brake calipers and upgraded warn hubs from a Jeep super 35 application with 35" tires.
I also have a red head steering gear box and Superrunner steering kit modified with one ton chevy TRE
The BII handles amazing and still has stock camber bushings set to 0 degrees camber
Just to give you an idea of what is possible with the ttb to make it RIDE better
Tall lift brackets will actually make it ride worse! You need extended radius arms and you want to keep stock steering and beam geometry
Now if I could do it all over again I would skip all of this and go for a Autofab dana 44 ttb kit into a RBV. 18" of clean 4x4 wheel travel, +8 track width, huge brakes and huge wheel bearings all keeping stock like steering using mostly stock parts from a F150
https://autofab.com/i-19736288-ranger-4x4-to-model-44-front-suspension.html
For you I would start with a 2" lift coil and shock, if you want a WAY better ride then it would be time to step up to a extended radius arm and possibly some modified TTB beams
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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks