Scrambler82 wrote:
By only boxing portion of the frame, do you open the frame to collecting mud and dirt behind the boxed areas ?

Thoughts...

For 98+ Rangers, both coil and T-bar, the frame rails are factory boxed from the front bumper back to just beyond the transmission crossmember. So it is already partially boxed. From what I've seen with these years, the problems with rust perforation and frame component failure are far more prevalent in the rear unboxed section. 

Unless you can guarantee that a boxed frame is absolutely watertight (not likely!), it would make sense to provide drainage paths to minimize water/salt/mud accumulation. Rust begets more rust, especially if it's in an area that is slow to dry - like the inside of a boxed frame would likely be. 

IMO, any used frame that is a candidate for boxing should be thoroughly de-rusted, cleaned and painted before adding the plates. The outside could be painted after welding is complete. 

That just leaves the internal welding paths unprotected. Eastwood.com sells an internal aerosol frame spray which can be applied using its 24" flexible spray tube inserted through existing frame holes. Reviews are mixed and it is reputed to be a messy process. I haven't used it myself but it seems like it might be a good idea.  However, I don't know how the average owner could judge its effectiveness unless you actually cut a treated frame apart ten years later and inspected it. 

Last edited on Thu May 31st, 2018 10:12 pm by V8 Level II