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Seasoned...
Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Near The Pointy End , USA
Posts: 1299
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I knew the line(s) were on borrowed time for 24 yr old vehicle but mos def pushed it.
Obviously if you have a single line here at the bulkhead near the frame, you're going to be dealing with a 4w ABS setup. There are different lines for that setup and I think those are also 95-97+.
If you have the two lines going in then you dont have ABS. Being a West coast truck, mine came apart pretty easily. Some of you up in that rust belt of the nation may find this to be a can of worms waiting to happen.
The Old...
The New...
Starting on the drivers side, I cracked loose both the top line with a line wrench and then the bacl line through the bulkhead. Now unknown to me at the time. The rear line has a clip with one side closed off. I forgot to take a pic of it but to make your job easier should you follow this. Loosen and remove the rear line first. This way the clip pulls free and then off as the sealed side won't let you slide the clip just off.
I may just have to take a pic of the clip and edit this post just to show what I mean later.
Once I popped the line off the bulkhead, the 14mm socket to the Banjo bolt on the Caliper. I like to clean all my parts during removal simply because it keeps the maintenance down and allows you to see things when trouble shooting other items of concern. Not to mention, i love working on cars/trucks but really hate getting dirty. So If I ever work on your rig and it comes back cleaner than you left it with me.. well now you know why.
Following my own advice in reverse, I put the rear line in loosely, same with the top line. Finished off tightening the rear line and then the top line again.. Voila ! You should end up with something like this on the drivers side..
The Passenger side..
Both lines should have the label always sticking outward (lol jk)..
Finally use the two new copper crush washers; slide the first one over the Banjo-bolt, the line block itself,another crush washer, and then thread the block to the caliper. Tighten but don't over tighten (26 ft/lb) is all that is needed.
Bleed the brakes, preferably with a competent friend, test drive slowly around the block/3 acres of property what have you, and enjoy the new positive pedal pressure and have a beer or two.
For me this is partially temporary. For one I just got a set of the 95-97' spindles for use with the dual piston calipers and brake brackets in order to rid myself of these single piston floating slide pin BS.
So once those brackets come back from powder coating, I'll be moving forward buttoning them up with new calipers and some custom spacers to move the caliper out an 1.5" or so, 12" Sport Trac rotors, inner seals, inner/outer bearings, and the proper Hawk performance pads for those calipers...
2nd thought of the day.. The failing switch indicator is officially fixed as well.. That was gonna bug me as bad as the blinking 12:00 on the VCR back in the day.
Thanks for reading as always...
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Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.
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~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.
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