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What did you do to your Ranger today?
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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 04:59 am
NewShockerGuy
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Wrapped the door trim pieces in 3m 1080p finally... been about a month driving around without them because of other side projects.

I'm redoing the driver side tomorrow since that was not done correctly.











 

-Nigel



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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 05:02 am
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!



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3rd forum, still look great :)

Any link to where you got the wrap from?



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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 10:10 am
NewShockerGuy
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lol, I know right. So many fourms...ahhaha

I get all my wrap from https://www.metrorestyling.com/

Super fast shipping and legit product. I never buy wrap from amazon or ebay because there are WAY too many counterfeit/knock offs. Even if I have to pay a couple bucks more sometimes, it's OK knowing that it's a genuine product.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 03:43 pm
mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!



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Hey Nigel, glad to see you here! Now I can stop PM'ing you from the other forums! :)



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5th Gen - 2003 - Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 05:01 pm
CBB9M
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Undrstm8ed wrote: That' not a lift point..

X2, and yes, the correct (and obviously the safest) lift point is either under the control arm itself or the frame.

And RE post #44...

*On the barbed fasteners (and not just in that location, anywhere) that hold the inner fender skirts in place, I've found that they can be removed in a matter of seconds; it's just a matter of technique and tool is all.

*On the jam nut, use a box wrench and on the nut below it, you use a box wrench and probably one with a narrow end.

Last edited on Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 05:07 pm by CBB9M



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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 05:54 pm
MaDMaXX

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It *is* *the* lift point on newer rangers.

Those popper studs though! Never had such trouble, ever, with them :( found out later I'd cut myself and hadn't noticed :(

So for the nut, the take offs didn't have the jamb nut, but the issue isn't that, it's when torquing down the first one, to squeeze the bushings, it just turns the shock, I can't hold it against the torque.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 04:49 pm
mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!



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This is straight out of a 2002 Ranger owner manual, page 165.

https://i.imgur.com/9aUeBXH.jpg



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5th Gen - 2003 - Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 05:01 pm
mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!



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CBB9M wrote: Undrstm8ed wrote: That' not a lift point..

X2, and yes, the correct (and obviously the safest) lift point is either under the control arm itself or the frame.

And RE post #44...

*On the barbed fasteners (and not just in that location, anywhere) that hold the inner fender skirts in place, I've found that they can be removed in a matter of seconds; it's just a matter of technique and tool is all.
Care to share your technique and tool?  I have my ways of dealing with these fasteners, but you may have a better way?



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5th Gen - 2003 - Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 06:45 pm
CBB9M
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For a crappy OEM jack being used to change a flat, not to work on a vehicle and/or crawl under it. Those have a longgggg track record of toppling and injuring/killing people; bad enough if all they do is topple and do $2,000 of body damage. On the barbed fasteners (etc etc plastic parts), there is a tool sold at auto parts stores and a little heat from a heat gun.

Last edited on Sat Nov 4th, 2017 06:47 pm by CBB9M



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 06:47 pm
JAMMAN

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I'm finally stretching the tonneau back on today



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 07:31 pm
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!



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I did wonder about a heat gun whilst i was under there struggling and getting annoyed, oh well ;) And no, i would never use the bottle jack if i didn't need to.

That was a 105lb floor jack, pure carelessness on my part for allowing the jack point to slip like that :(


Tonneau cover!!! Yes, so, um, i picked up a fiberglass one cheap, it's missing the instructions, and gas struts, it has a tiny bit of damage on one corner that needs marginal repair as the trim rubber is put back on.

But i have little enthusiasm right now and i don't really know fiberglass either :( Guessing the frame needs bolting on and should be done with bed caps?

Last edited on Sat Nov 4th, 2017 07:32 pm by MaDMaXX



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 07:49 pm
JAMMAN

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I suck at anything body, paint, or fiberglass. My cover is a cheap snap on style but when it gets cold it can be a bear to put back on.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 07:51 pm
MaDMaXX

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it wasn't as cheap as this, guaranteed, but then, yours is on and works, mine is leant against the garage wall :(



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 09:38 pm
mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!



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CBB9M wrote: For a crappy OEM jack being used to change a flat, not to work on a vehicle and/or crawl under it. Those have a longgggg track record of toppling and injuring/killing people; bad enough if all they do is topple and do $2,000 of body damage. On the barbed fasteners (etc etc plastic parts), there is a tool sold at auto parts stores and a little heat from a heat gun.

Bill - I always use a standard floor jack (unless caught with a flat on the highway.  I have used those lift points more for jack stand placement once the vehicle is up on a smooth concrete surface.  Agreed, they could/should be better and safer.

Thanks for the tip on the barbed fasteners.  I wasn't aware they made an actual tool to remove those... and I never thought of heating them.  I have had some that were so tight, the heads popped off before I could get them loose.  Will try your method next time! :)



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5th Gen - 2003 - Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2017 10:08 pm
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Drove it around town today to run some errands & when I got home I hooked the code scanner to it to see if the P1000 code is still there, to my surprise it is gone. Time to take it back through state inspection next week. :)



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 Posted: Sun Nov 5th, 2017 07:16 pm
loomdog32
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I really should get off my butt and finish what I can ( everything except 5 exhaust bolts that should be here wed)...



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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 05:19 pm
NoPower

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I walked past it today getting the mail. What a waist!!! :(

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2017 05:20 pm by NoPower



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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 12:54 am
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Drove it to work & took it to for the state inspection, woooo hooooo it passed inspection. Good for 2 more years. :cool:



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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 02:12 am
MaDMaXX

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Test drove it in the colder weather, i think my stat is not very well, took ages to get to temp.

New shocks feel great though, no more light bobbling.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2017 08:28 pm
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MaDMaXX wrote: New shocks feel great though, no more light bobbling.
What shocks did you use?.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2017 08:46 pm
MaDMaXX

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Went for the KYB ExcelG's - though if i fancied an upgrade, i would choose the KYB Gas-a-Just's instead, another $70ish for the set though.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 9th, 2017 12:17 am
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Well, got the last of the exhaust bolts in. Finally got the Alt mounted correctly with Belt.. Battery is charging now. Hope to start it for the first time after the rebuilt tonight.



Still need to put the Clutch Fan back on

Belt for P/S Pump (awaiting in mail)

High Pressure Line for P/S Pump (Amazon sent wrong part - need to reorder)

Last but not least Hose Clamps for Upper Rad Hose.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 9th, 2017 12:42 am
MaDMaXX

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Decided i was going to mount what we call spotlights behind the grille, seems they're called offroad lights here.

1) Need to decide on switch type and location in cab
2) Need to find suitable LED lights for the job.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 9th, 2017 03:57 am
NewShockerGuy
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Figured I'd use the remaining amount of 3m wrap I had so I wrapped my a-pillars and mustang dome housing.  I haven't installed anything yet but I'm wondering if the a-pillars are going to look out of place once bolted back up and the rear b-pillars are gray...  I am tempted to use the duplicolor vinyl/plastic spray that I used for the head visors to make them black but not sure or not...

I thought about ordering my vinyl but honestly I don't think I want to.











-Nigel

Last edited on Thu Nov 9th, 2017 03:57 am by NewShockerGuy



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 Posted: Thu Nov 9th, 2017 04:07 am
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!



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I must say, the wrapping quality is excellent, and you've given me another option in the whole A pillar scenario.



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