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Performance Parts, 2000 5.0 Explorer Motor
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 Posted: Sat Jan 12th, 2019 03:27 pm
ILivermore
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Hello all. I recently did an engine swap in my 2000 Ranger. I put a 5.0L V8 out of a 2000 Explorer in it. I drove it for a while, but it has begun knocking. I'm thinking about doing a full rebuild on it over a reman engine. That being said, I kinda want to put a 347 stroker kit in it. Anyone have any suggestions for stroker kits and/or any other good performance mods?



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 Posted: Sat Jan 12th, 2019 07:03 pm
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Never done one, but whatever you do keep it under 500HP those little windsor blocks seem to be OK up till 500HP then at 501 they split in half.

Not really but it seems that way, plenty of literature on high horsepower 5.0 windsor builds breaking. I have probably seen 30 pictures of separated blocks.

If you pursue this please keep us updated that is a cool path.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2019 01:31 am
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Anyone have a parts list of what will work? What stroker kits, heads, cams, etc



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 Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2019 02:28 am
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Work is a relative term.  Figure out your goals, and then research parts.

These guys are local and pretty reputable

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277



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 Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2019 03:08 pm
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I want a streetable truck that I can drive on the interstate but still have good power

Last edited on Sun Jan 13th, 2019 04:05 pm by ILivermore



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 Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2019 05:34 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Never done one, but whatever you do keep it under 500HP those little windsor blocks seem to be OK up till 500HP then at 501 they split in half.

Not really but it seems that way, plenty of literature on high horsepower 5.0 windsor builds breaking. I have probably seen 30 pictures of separated blocks.

If you pursue this please keep us updated that is a cool path.



This is false info. Lots of people have made a lot more power than 500hp on a stock block. It's all in the tune. Will they last? Probably not, but guys have raced them for entire seasons making over 500hp with the right tune.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2019 05:48 pm
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A .595" lift cam will work but that's a little much for the street. I run a trick flow stage 3 dual pattern cam .584/.595 lift in my 93 mustang. Really any 5.0 head intake and cam will work. The stock bottom end and block will handle 7500 rpm and about 550 hp as long as upgrade the rod and main bolts to ARP fasteners. 8000 rpm is doable but will not take it for long on stock bottom end. I can get 2 seasons out of an engine twisting 7500 when I bumped it to 8000 I got 27 passes which is alot on stock parts. But for a street beater the stock expo intake is great just gasket match the ports the stock e7te heads are great after you upgrade the valve springs to a dual spring gasket match the ports and grind the humps out of the exhaust ports. The frpp f303 cam is a great street cam as is the e303. Torque monster headers cold air kit and a good flowing exhaust is all good upgrades. Stroker kits I really like the 331 it gives you a good blend of top and bottom end power and less money spent on machine work to the block. The 347 is a good choice but your basically maxed out to where the 331 gives you a chance to upgrade the bore size later on down the road



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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 01:39 pm
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I agree I like the 331

Now with the amount of time and money you are going to spend building your current engine into a 331 or 347 you should really consider just buying a crate engine already built
How many times have you seen a engine build go badly? Cost way too much? Take way too long? I have seen it very very often. When trying to cobble together a stroker engine from a small block, many times it is a much better idea to just save up and buy one already built, from a reputable builder who does this all day and gives you a warranty.
Now with that disclaimer out of the way the SBF stroker "kits" have come a long way and there are many many streetable trucks running around with 347 these days. So do some research and pick whats right for you!

When you say your 2000 engine is knocking I say, from where? Lower end knock like a crank bearing? Are you sure its not just a broken exhaust manifold or EGR tube leaking? Just want to make sure



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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 02:35 pm
JAMMAN

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Bird76Mojo wrote:
JAMMAN wrote:

Never done one, but whatever you do keep it under 500HP those little windsor blocks seem to be OK up till 500HP then at 501 they split in half.

Not really but it seems that way, plenty of literature on high horsepower 5.0 windsor builds breaking. I have probably seen 30 pictures of separated blocks.

If you pursue this please keep us updated that is a cool path.



This is false info. Lots of people have made a lot more power than 500hp on a stock block. It's all in the tune. Will they last? Probably not, but guys have raced them for entire seasons making over 500hp with the right tune.

All right, if you have butt loads of money to make sure everything is absolutely right and you crest the 500HP barrier for a couple seconds long enough to get the thing over the light then yes you can get over 500HP. I would like tho see the article of a sustained over 500HP windsor block that stays in one piece.

As a whole if joe schmuck making less than 80K a year takes his mustang and tries to pork it past 500 he ends up with a 2 piece block. I wish this were not true but save for a few scattered lucky bastards that got a casting made on a wednesday before lunch and have more disposable income than most of us do gross income, you are asking for trouble.

Though my statement is of course not 100% entirely true it is based off reading dozens of articles from the time I owned my GT (bought in 88) stating it is not wise to attempt a 500HP build from a stock 302 block.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 07:31 pm
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410customs wrote:
I agree I like the 331

Now with the amount of time and money you are going to spend building your current engine into a 331 or 347 you should really consider just buying a crate engine already built
How many times have you seen a engine build go badly? Cost way too much? Take way too long? I have seen it very very often. When trying to cobble together a stroker engine from a small block, many times it is a much better idea to just save up and buy one already built, from a reputable builder who does this all day and gives you a warranty.
Now with that disclaimer out of the way the SBF stroker "kits" have come a long way and there are many many streetable trucks running around with 347 these days. So do some research and pick whats right for you!

When you say your 2000 engine is knocking I say, from where? Lower end knock like a crank bearing? Are you sure its not just a broken exhaust manifold or EGR tube leaking? Just want to make sure

Does anyone make a crate motor that will drop in?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 07:53 pm
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Any crate engine will drop in after you swap all your external parts. Coast High Performance makes a good crate stroker enigne that's not badly priced



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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 09:31 pm
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black06xlt wrote:
Any crate engine will drop in after you swap all your external parts. Coast High Performance makes a good crate stroker enigne that's not badly priced
They want $6,150 for a 331 or 347 long block..



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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 11:32 pm
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I started to read the postings and determined that everyone has there own idea of what to do !

Here's Mine:
- Get the 331 Kit, but without pistons, stick to stock Bore if possible, you end up with a 327 CI SBF but to me 327 is one of those cubic inches that just works.  You will end up with good power and a little more reasonable manners on the street !
- When you get your stock pistons, look for somewhere around 9.0 compression, more than that will require higher priced gas, lower mean less power, add some "Oil Slingers" to the list, a little extra oil in the cylinder helps on the SBF. Wrist Pins is a good thing.
- If you get a stock block, consider a Main Bearing Strut System, which will lock the Main Bearing Caps together, it helps to make the Block more ridged. 
- If you happen to have a large amount of cash, an SVO Block, either a 5.0L or a BOSS 5.0L, both nice block but pricey $$$$$$ !
- Camshaft, I like a good strong cam, like the sound of the overlap in the exhaust, but it can sometimes cause difficulties on the street so don't go too big if you want good manners on the street.  To me to gain a little extra power from the cam consider a shorter duration, but more than stock, but with a higher lift but not too high, 0.600/.050 is a little too high for a DD, but 0.550/.050 with a shorter duration , now that could work.  Little extra lift can equate to more torque on the low end and more HP on the high end of the rpm scale.  Choose wisely, get your ideas of how you want the engine to do, what weight is for the vehicle, and then contact a cam manufacturer for suggestions.  Ask the Tech questions about performance, will it work with my transmission, my gears, my induction system, will I need a Mass Air System, and is there a quick setup, get it together now not later.

- If you decide on a more standard type of camshaft, you can gain some low end torque by replacing the Rocker Arm with a higher ratio, I can not remember the exact ratio that is stock (thinking 1.6 to 1) but but going to the next higher ratio will help and MAY cost less than a new cam.  Look up the stock rocker arm ratio and go higher... !  Roller Rockers will help to reduce friction but cost more money but something to think about !
- Induction Systems vary but the OEM 5.0L EFI is good enough for 350 to 400 HP without a lot of additional mods and remember too big is not good, but the Mass Air System on the incoming air is  the best.

Before deciding on the exact setup, decide on the gears you want to run, the tire size, and what you expect from the finished engine.

This list is not a list of the right things to do, because as stated before, every engine builder has their own ideas, I build my street engines for mild manners but good low end torque where you can feel it when you hit the throttle and you can get by with a mid grade gas not the high end gas or the price.

Also, when having the block prepped, if funding is available, think engine balancing, it will surprise you at the results.

Good Luck on your choices, there will always be tweeting, no matter what you do for mods.

Ltr



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 Posted: Tue Jan 15th, 2019 06:57 am
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Scrambler82 wrote:
I started to read the postings and determined that everyone has there own idea of what to do !

Here's Mine:
- Get the 331 Kit, but without pistons, stick to stock Bore if possible, you end up with a 327 CI SBF but to me 327 is one of those cubic inches that just works.  You will end up with good power and a little more reasonable manners on the street !
- When you get your stock pistons, look for somewhere around 9.0 compression, more than that will require higher priced gas, lower mean less power, add some "Oil Slingers" to the list, a little extra oil in the cylinder helps on the SBF. Wrist Pins is a good thing.
- If you get a stock block, consider a Main Bearing Strut System, which will lock the Main Bearing Caps together, it helps to make the Block more ridged. 
- If you happen to have a large amount of cash, an SVO Block, either a 5.0L or a BOSS 5.0L, both nice block but pricey $$$$$$ !
- Camshaft, I like a good strong cam, like the sound of the overlap in the exhaust, but it can sometimes cause difficulties on the street so don't go too big if you want good manners on the street.  To me to gain a little extra power from the cam consider a shorter duration, but more than stock, but with a higher lift but not too high, 0.600/.050 is a little too high for a DD, but 0.550/.050 with a shorter duration , now that could work.  Little extra lift can equate to more torque on the low end and more HP on the high end of the rpm scale.  Choose wisely, get your ideas of how you want the engine to do, what weight is for the vehicle, and then contact a cam manufacturer for suggestions.  Ask the Tech questions about performance, will it work with my transmission, my gears, my induction system, will I need a Mass Air System, and is there a quick setup, get it together now not later.

- If you decide on a more standard type of camshaft, you can gain some low end torque by replacing the Rocker Arm with a higher ratio, I can not remember the exact ratio that is stock (thinking 1.6 to 1) but but going to the next higher ratio will help and MAY cost less than a new cam.  Look up the stock rocker arm ratio and go higher... !  Roller Rockers will help to reduce friction but cost more money but something to think about !
- Induction Systems vary but the OEM 5.0L EFI is good enough for 350 to 400 HP without a lot of additional mods and remember too big is not good, but the Mass Air System on the incoming air is  the best.

Before deciding on the exact setup, decide on the gears you want to run, the tire size, and what you expect from the finished engine.

This list is not a list of the right things to do, because as stated before, every engine builder has their own ideas, I build my street engines for mild manners but good low end torque where you can feel it when you hit the throttle and you can get by with a mid grade gas not the high end gas or the price.

Also, when having the block prepped, if funding is available, think engine balancing, it will surprise you at the results.

Good Luck on your choices, there will always be tweeting, no matter what you do for mods.

Ltr

If you're lucky enough, finding a mexican block is also a good route to take, but those are all nearly gone these days. The casting are generally thicker in most places. Even to the naked eye. Also, if you switch to a higher ratio rocker, BE SURE TO CHECK piston to valve clearances. Heads and cam will always make the most noticeable difference in HP/TQ on an otherwise stock engine. Of course the GT40 intakes help a ton too, depending on what setup you decide to go with.

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 Posted: Tue Jan 15th, 2019 01:47 pm
410customs
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Yes the stock Explorer GT40 and p headed engines are factory stamped 1.6/1 ratio rocker

Just make sure you are shopping for GT40 SBF with the 28oz external balancer and they will drop right in.
$6200 is quite a bit, but worth it to get a 347 with a warranty!!
It is also the reason I still have a stock 302 explorer longblock
Gotta pay to play

Factory Explorer blocks are not a bad choice in this day and age, 302 cores are starting to get harder to find = core value goes up and the explorer 96-01 are full roller (aside from stamped rocker) they have dual timing setup from factory, high volume water and oil pumps = they run strong and make good budget builders

I like these guys we have about 25K miles on one of their 302 and it has been awesome 
https://www.high-performance-engines.com/ford-long-block-supreme-s/120.htm

Last edited on Tue Jan 15th, 2019 08:20 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Tue Jan 15th, 2019 07:26 pm
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410customs wrote:
Just make sure you are shopping for GT40 SBF with the 28oz external balancer and they will drop right in.
$6200 is quite a bit, but worth it to get a 347 with a warranty!!
It is also the reason I still have a stock 302 explorer longblock
Gotta pay to play

I like these guys we have about 25K miles on one of their 302 and it has been awesome 
https://www.high-performance-engines.com/ford-long-block-supreme-s/120.htm

I'm f***ked. 4-6 weeks out for a reman. Gonna have to sell the truck.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 15th, 2019 08:10 pm
410customs
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junk yard? craigslist?
You can buy a complete explorer take the engine, keep trans and tcase for spare...... sell rear axle, wheels tires, sell cat converters and crush truck = free engine
Drop that engine in while you wait or it frees up your factory engine for a rebuild

Last edited on Tue Jan 15th, 2019 08:11 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2019 02:50 am
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There are dozens of places online to get engines.

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 Posted: Thu Jan 17th, 2019 04:32 pm
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Last edited on Thu Jan 17th, 2019 04:33 pm by Scrambler82



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Hurst Shifter w/Longer Replacement Shift Handle with (Homemade) Mounting Adapter; 1.5" up x 1" back.
Backrack mod'd to fit Steppie, Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 03:51 pm
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Update 01/21/2019: 

I ordered a re-manufactured long block from Fraser Engines. Has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on it. Should be here this week sometime. Will likely be going in the truck the first week of February. On the plus side, the salvage yard I got my original 5.0 from gave me all my money back even though it was outside of warranty.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 04:05 pm
410customs
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Heck yes! Let us know how it goes
You should ask them if they can ship it with the explorer style timing cover



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 04:17 pm
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ILivermore wrote:
Update 01/21/2019: 

I ordered a re-manufactured long block from Fraser Engines. Has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on it. Should be here this week sometime. Will likely be going in the truck the first week of February. On the plus side, the salvage yard I got my original 5.0 from gave me all my money back even though it was outside of warranty.

OK, you now have a good starting point.
The Stock 5.0L should be a good reliable power plant.
Are you planning anything, headers, free flowing exhaust ?

Good Luck with the new setup.

Good to hear there are some good businesses out there, someone that you can go back to and count on.

Ltr



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
Large Tube Rear Axle, 31 Spline - FX4, 4.56 Gears, OX Locked
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15" BFG ATs,
Hurst Shifter w/Longer Replacement Shift Handle with (Homemade) Mounting Adapter; 1.5" up x 1" back.
Backrack mod'd to fit Steppie, Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 04:26 pm
ILivermore
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Scrambler82 wrote:
ILivermore wrote:

Update 01/21/2019: 

I ordered a re-manufactured long block from Fraser Engines. Has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on it. Should be here this week sometime. Will likely be going in the truck the first week of February. On the plus side, the salvage yard I got my original 5.0 from gave me all my money back even though it was outside of warranty.

OK, you now have a good starting point.
The Stock 5.0L should be a good reliable power plant.
Are you planning anything, headers, free flowing exhaust ?

Good Luck with the new setup.

Good to hear there are some good businesses out there, someone that you can go back to and count on.

Ltr

It has Torque Monster headers on it and 2.5" exhaust from the cat back



____________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4
3" Performance Accessories Body Lift
4" Superlift Suspension Lift
Fox Racing Coilovers, Eibach Springs
Camburg Heim Inner Tie Rods
FR36S Leaf Springs
4.56 Yukon Gears
Much More
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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 04:28 pm
ILivermore
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410customs wrote:
Heck yes! Let us know how it goes
You should ask them if they can ship it with the explorer style timing cover

I'm not sure if a long block comes with a timing cover. Regardless, I ordered a new timing cover from RockAuto anyway



____________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4
3" Performance Accessories Body Lift
4" Superlift Suspension Lift
Fox Racing Coilovers, Eibach Springs
Camburg Heim Inner Tie Rods
FR36S Leaf Springs
4.56 Yukon Gears
Much More
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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2019 04:40 pm
Scrambler82
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ILivermore wrote:
Scrambler82 wrote:

ILivermore wrote:


Update 01/21/2019: 

I ordered a re-manufactured long block from Fraser Engines. Has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on it. Should be here this week sometime. Will likely be going in the truck the first week of February. On the plus side, the salvage yard I got my original 5.0 from gave me all my money back even though it was outside of warranty.

OK, you now have a good starting point.
The Stock 5.0L should be a good reliable power plant.
Are you planning anything, headers, free flowing exhaust ?

Good Luck with the new setup.

Good to hear there are some good businesses out there, someone that you can go back to and count on.

Ltr

It has Torque Monster headers on it and 2.5" exhaust from the cat back


ILivermore wrote:
410customs wrote:

Heck yes! Let us know how it goes
You should ask them if they can ship it with the explorer style timing cover

I'm not sure if a long block comes with a timing cover. Regardless, I ordered a new timing cover from RockAuto anyway

That's right TM's are the only ones that fit there than the Explorer Junk headers.

So that hose should free up the flow out the back.

Anything other than the Headers or are you sticking to OEM Stock ?

I didn't think a long block came with the timing cover... used, unbroken is as good as new... and it would be factory.
Maybe that JY, where you got your other motor from, may have the right timing cover, might be cheaper than a new one... but you may have said you already ordered one.

What transmission are you thinking on ?

I used a 3 speed automatic on my conversion, a little easier and sturdier than a Ranger 5-sp; if I did it again, I'm thinking minimum a 4 sp OD automatic but there are a few choices out there.

The 3-speed C-4 auto held up really well, I had  shift kit in it to tighten up the shifts, but at 65 I missed the OD.

Last edited on Mon Jan 21st, 2019 04:48 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
Large Tube Rear Axle, 31 Spline - FX4, 4.56 Gears, OX Locked
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15" BFG ATs,
Hurst Shifter w/Longer Replacement Shift Handle with (Homemade) Mounting Adapter; 1.5" up x 1" back.
Backrack mod'd to fit Steppie, Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
PM Quote Reply

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