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One man's tale of his conversion
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 Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2017 05:12 pm
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Doc
2002 Ranger w/96 Expo5.0 V8


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This is an excerpt from the now defunct Ranger Power Sports.  Attempts were made to contact the author of this dissertation without success.  Still, credit is due to Nathanial Hunter for publishing a well thought out tale of the travails of installing an Explorer V8 into his 2001 Ranger.  Thank you Nate!!!!!
Ranger V8 conversion


2001 Ranger 5.0L Motor Swap
Wiring Manual


By: Nathaniel V Hunter (400sxman)


IMPORTANT NOTICE:
THIS MANUAL WAS WRITTEN BY NATHANIEL HUNTER FOR USE ON http://www.rangerpowersports.com AND CAN NOT BE DUPLICATED OR REPRODUCED WITHOUT HIS EXPRESSED PERMISSION. The following procedure was the solution for my swap, a 2001 ranger edge 3.0L 2WD to a 2000 explorer XLT 5.0L AWD. However, different years or models may differ slightly and I CANNOT GUARANTEE THIS WILL WORK FOR OTHER YEARS, MODELS, OR TRIM PACKAGES.

Ok, when it comes time to do a 5.0 swap on a 2001 ranger, there are a few wiring issues that your run into. The three main issues are:


1) the tach needs to be rewired so that it will display correctly for a V8
2) the PATS antitheft systems are incompatible, the truck will think you are stealing it
3) the VSS signal is eliminated and must be put back.


…luckily, these three issues can all be solved by creating a hybrid electrical system from parts of both the ranger and the explorer. This FAQ will guide you step by step on rewiring your vehicle so that it will run with out throwing any codes.


1) Rewiring The Tachometer:


2001 rangers did not come with a V8, when you swap one in, the tach will read a higher RPM than the motor is actually running. Luckily for us, the tach that was used in explorers was the same, so the tach can be setup to read a V8 signal. All that is required is switching a ground; the steps are as follow:


I: Get your dash apart and disconnect the cluster


II: If you have a EVTM turn to the Instrument cluster section.


III: Locate Pin 8 on wire connector C216 (Black/Yellow Wire)


IV: Use a very small flathead screwdriver to release the pin from the connector housing


V: Find Connector C214 (largest of the 3 for cluster)


VI: Install the wire removed from C216 into slot 16 on C214. This slot is currently vacant.


VII: Put everything back together and fire it up. You're done!!



2) Rewiring The PATS System:


Both the explorer and the ranger have a different style of PATS system, rewiring is necessary to fix this.


The explorer has PATS type “B”, under this system, the key sends a signal to the PATS transceiver, the transceiver then sends a signal to the PATS transponder (PATS module), and this then sends a signal to the PCM that tells it that its ok to run. For a type “B” system, if the PCM does not receive the “ok to run” signal from the PATS module, then it will still allow the motor to crank, but it will not send pulses to the injectors cutting all fuel.


Starting in 2001, the rangers began using the PATS type “E” system. The way that type “E” PATS is different is that it eliminates the PATS module (transponder) by integrating it into the PCM. Under a type “E” system, the coded keys send a signal to the PATS transceiver, the transceiver then takes the signal and sends it directly to the PCM where it checks to make sure that the key code is correct and then allows the motor to run. Under the type “E” system, if the PCM fails to detect the properly coded key, then it will do two things. First, it will not send pulses to the injectors to cut fuel to the motor. Secondly, the type “E” system has the starter solenoid grounded in the PCM, if it doesn’t receive the proper signal it will not ground the starter solenoid which keeps the motor from cranking when the ignition is turned.
Obviously, because we are using the PCM from an explorer with a ranger body harness, when you do the swap he PCM will be looking for a signal from a module that doesn’t exist. When you have the motor in the truck and you excitedly turn the key for the first time not only will it not crank (because the starter solenoid isn’t grounded), but even once you do ground the solenoid and get it to crank, it won’t fire because the injector aren’t firing.


To fix this, an Explorer PATS module must be wired into the truck. This will require a different transceiver and key because the two different PATS types use different transceivers and keys. The wiring is almost all done on the main interior harness which is located behind the dash on the ranger, the steps are as follows:


…steps one through eleven are performed on the ranger main interior harness located under the dash.


I: add a tn/og wire to pin #9, circuit 914 on ranger connector c146, it is run the the explorer pats module


II: add a pk/lb wire to pin 10, circuit 915 on ranger connector c146 to be run the explorer pats module


III: disconnect the wh/lg wire, circuit 1215 and the gy/og wire, circuit 1216 from ranger connector c144, they are run to the explorer pats module


IV: disconnect the bk/wh wire, circuit 570 from ranger connector C2097(pats transceiver), its going to be run to the explorer pats module


V: disconnect the rd/lg wire , circuit 16 from connector C2097 on the explorer, its going to the explorer pats module


VI: jump the wh/ye wire, circuit 1001 from C220c (instrument cluster) on the ranger, its going to the explorer pats module


VII: disconnect the db/lg wire, circuit 343, from connector C144, its going to the explorer pats module


VIII: Disconnect connector C2097 (pats transceiver) from the ranger, it is to be replaced with C221 (pats transceiver) from the explorer. Circuit 1215 (pin #4) and 1216 (pin #3) are in the same position in connector C221 as the were in C2097


IX: connect a bk/ye (circuit 651) wire to pin #1 on C221 and a dg/wh wire (circuit 936) to pin #2. they are to be run to the explorer pats module.


X: All the wiring for the PATS module should be completed at this point, you should be able to plug in the explorer transceiver underneath the steering column (around the lock cylinder) and plug the explorer PATS module in to the connector that you just wired into the system. You need to find a place to mount the module, I just crewed mine into the plate that goes underneath the steering column.


XI: A new key is needed as PATS type “E” and “B” use different base keys, if you were unable to get one from the explorer you took the parts out of, you can go to a ford dealership and have them program one in using the factory protocol for programming a key to a 2000 explorer.


…the final step in done to the engine bay harness, this step is grounding the starter solenoid so that the vehicle will crank when you turn the key…


XII: disconnect db/og wire, circuit 325 (starter relay control) from pin #28, C110 on ranger harness, connect this wire to ground terminal on the battery


…now that the new PATS system is wired in and the starter solenoid is grounded TURN THE KEY AND LISTEN YOUR BEAST FIRE UP FOR THE FIRST TIME  . Your truck is almost done, it’s at a point where it will run and drive but the speedometer won’t work and the check engine light will come on. Fixing this problem is addressed in step number three.


3) Rewiring The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Signal.


2001 rangers had one more operation that was performed in the PCM that the explorers had a separate module for; the conditioning of the VSS signal.
In the ranger, an OSS signal from the transmission was sent to the PCM, the PCM then in turn used this for determining shift points and broadcast a conditioned version to the cruise control, speedometer, ABS, etc.
In the explorer, the VSS signal from the rear axle is sent to the ABS module. The ABS module is then used to condition the signal and broadcast a the conditioned signal to the cruise control, speedometer, and PCM for determining shift points. One additional feature the explorer has is a “G-Force Transducer” that measures how hard you are breaking for the ABS.
Because we are using the PCM from the explorer, it will require a conditioned VSS, This requires using the explorer ABS module and “G-Force Transducer”.
Not using these components will not stop the vehicle from running, but the speedo/tach will not work and the transmission will be running in “limp mode” because shift point can’t be optimized based on vehicle speed. The lack of this signal also makes the engine throw a code and the check engine light comes on.
Following, are the instructions for wiring in the explorer ABS module and “G-Force Transducer”:


I: remove the ABS module from the ranger, its connector is connector C135.


II: mount the explorer “G-Force Transducer” to the ranger. It mounts on the drivers side frame rail directly next to the fuel pump. Its connector is connector C312.


III: there are three wires coming from the “G-Force Transducer”, an OG/BK wire circuit # 886, a YE wire circuit # 887, and an OG/WH wire circuit # 836. These three wires need to be extended all the way to the ABS connector C135.


IV: connect the OG/BK wire circuit # 886, to pin #14 on C135. This pin on the connector will be empty.


V: connect the YE wire, circuit # 887 to pin # 13 on C135. you will have to disconnect the wire that is currently there, it is the brake pressure switch and will no longer be needed.


VI: connect the OG/WH wire, circuit # 836 to pin #1 on connector C135. This pin on the connector will be empty.


VII: pin # 19 on connector C135 is the VSS signal output, circuit # C679. Connect a GY/BK wire to pin # 19 on connector C135 and splice it into pin # 32 on connector C146 (the grey firewall connector). This will tie the new conditioned VSS signal into all the other systems.


VIII: plug the explorer 4WABS module into connector C135 and bolt the module onto the ABS system.


…the new VSS signal is now tied into all the systems on the truck. Turn the key and take your baby for a drive! The check engine light should come off and the speedometer and odometer should now be functioning as well.


I can support this thread! I should probably dig up some of the older messages, but here is a very quick list:


1) Best to get a complete Explorer V8 wreck and start from there, if not, proceed to the following list


2) Complete explorer V8 engine with all accessories, engine driven fan, EEC, and wiring
3) Battery cable harness from explorer V8
4) Cruise cable from explorer V8
5) Throttle cable from explorer V8
6) Radiator from explorer V8
7) Radiator hoses from explorer V8
8) AC lines from explorer V8
9) Exhaust manifolds and Catalytic converters from explorer V8
10) transmission (and transfercase / output flange) from exlorer V8
11) Airbox, MAF, and Zip tube from explorer V8
12) Fan shroud from explorer V8
13) motor mounts:


If torsion bar front suspension - use explorer V8 parts
If coil spring front suspension - use 4.0L mounts and plates designed by BrainB31
Or: Adapter plates for engine mounts:  Strada Shop on Ranger Power Sports


14) swap out fuel pressure regulator in the tank with the regulator from explorer V8
15) have Ford Dealer re-program PATS to synch EEC, PATS module, and Keys.



Again, many thanks to Nate Hunter



Last edited on Sat Nov 25th, 2017 05:12 pm by Doc



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 Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2017 05:24 pm
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mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!


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Excellent contribution, Doc! Useful information such as this MUST be preserved (and Ford-Rangers.com is the place to do it)! :)



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2017 07:05 pm
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Doc
2002 Ranger w/96 Expo5.0 V8


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That was the point. 

 

This a great write up I'd hate to see lost.  Nate did a super job of documenting his swap and with RPS going off-line, I wanted to help preserve his work.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2017 07:25 pm
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mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
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I'm sure he would appreciate your efforts. Who know, he may run across a Google tag or something about it that will lead him to here! :)



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2017 07:49 pm
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JAMMAN

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I would be delighted if he would join, but in preparation for that article we made more than ample attempts to contact him to no avail. I'm hoping our actions will be pleasing to him if he ever sees it but I also hope there are dozens of others who post their stories also.

Doc has a few stories of his own LOL tell them about your driveshaft.



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
"I'm thinking about buying a horse eventually, I'll take half a dozen carts please"
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 Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2017 08:04 pm
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mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!


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Even though I most likely will never swap a 5.0L into my truck, I love reading about all the things that go into it. I have done many engine swaps back in the day (before computers and other electronic complications). The main issues were things like driveshaft length and blowing up the rear diff with too much HP from the new engine. Good times, though!



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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