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Engine not reaching operating temp       #: 2382
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 Posted: Tue May 18th, 2021 07:02 pm
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VelociRanger
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As the title says the engine never reaches operating temp. Even if I let it idle for 30 minutes the needle never reaches the middle, maybe 1/4. I can also let it “warm” up, and when I drive it and I have to get into the gas a little bit I can watch the needle dip back down to cold. It used to not be a problem until recently when I started getting a CIL for P0128 I believe it is. My initial thought was the the thermostat was stuck open, most likely cause it seems. But, when I went to replace the thermostat one of the 3 bolts holding it on snapped. After I snapped it I figured I shouldn’t take it out until I find replacement bolts. HOWEVER, nobody makes 2.3 Duratec replacement thermostat housing bolts. They’re all for the 4.0. I also just read the the fan clutch could be stuck to always on. Is there a way to check the fan clutch, and also if anyone can find/has replacement thermostat bolts for a 2.3 let me know. Or if the 4.0 ones are the same.

Last edited on Tue May 18th, 2021 07:03 pm by VelociRanger



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1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed May 19th, 2021 02:05 am
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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Update: found the bolts. Or “screws” as Ford calls them. Instead of searching thermostat housing I searched water outlet housing and the water outlet came up. I then used the diagram they showed for the water outlet and it pointed to the “screws” and I was like “nahhh that can’t be it. I need BOLTS not screws what the heck” but sure enough, on the water outlet diagram and the “screw” diagram it shows it going into the water outlet (think thermostat housing) to connect to the block. 3.81 for the bolts, and 18 freakin dollars for the radiator drain plug. Will be attacking the thermostat this weekend. Hopefully I can remove the bolts. 


Water outlet (thermostat housing) “Screw” part number: W500015S437



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed May 19th, 2021 05:39 am
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Eddie Money
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If the fan clutch is bad your truck will be a lot louder. But I cant think of a good description 🤔. You might notice a small loss of pep at slower speeds... 🤷‍♂️ not sure if this is the greatest recommendation... but if you can stop the fan easily without losing fingers or your hand...... someone else help!!!

For the broken bolt. Use a undersize lefthand drill bit. It will bite into the bolt and unscrew it most of the time.
https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html

Last edited on Wed May 19th, 2021 05:44 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Wed May 19th, 2021 10:43 am
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Ordinary Biker
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If you are going with a left hand drill bit, just get a screw extractor, it's intent is to use that left hand drilled hole specifically for this.  https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-and-left-hand-drill-bit-combo-set-10-pc-61981.html

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 Posted: Wed May 19th, 2021 07:28 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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There’s maybe a 1/2 sticking out of the block on one of them, I’m thinking spray it down with penetrant and use vise grips on that one. I’m just not sure how aluminum bolts got super rusty. Hopefully it’s not a different bolt the PO just stuck in there



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Thu May 20th, 2021 12:30 am
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Eddie Money
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Aluminum oxidizes but it forms a white dust or scale instead of red like rust.



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 Posted: Fri May 21st, 2021 12:38 am
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
If you are going with a left hand drill bit, just get a screw extractor, it's intent is to use that left hand drilled hole specifically for this.  https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-and-left-hand-drill-bit-combo-set-10-pc-61981.html
Also get a diamond tipped drill bit that can drill out broken screw extractors.  :'(

If you have one you will not break the extractor. If you don't have one the extractor is going to break. A variation of Murphy's Law.



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 Posted: Fri May 21st, 2021 12:28 pm
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Tsquare wrote:
Also get a diamond tipped drill bit that can drill out broken screw extractors.  :'(

If you have one you will not break the extractor. If you don't have one the extractor is going to break. A variation of Murphy's Law.

Broken screw extractors are indeed a major pain in the ass

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 Posted: Fri May 21st, 2021 07:49 pm
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VelociRanger
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Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I will be starting to tackle this today adter work. Been soaking/spraying the bolts with liquid wrench every day, hopefully it helps. Also needed an excuse to go to harbor freight, so thank you guys for enabling my addiction lol :D



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Fri May 21st, 2021 09:31 pm
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Don't forget a torch. Not hot enough to melt  but hot enough to get it very hot. A couple of hot/cold cycles may help loosen it up.



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Came out of retirement to drive a school bus - I have lost my mind
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 Posted: Sat May 22nd, 2021 10:03 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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No dice. Tried the heat, tried left handed drill bits, tried bolt extractors....nothing. I’ve got someone coming out tomorrow to help me get them out, a mobile mechanic guy who has his own shop and does mobile stuff on the side. It’s frustrating when yo can’t do something yourself. Also expensive.



____________________
knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sun May 23rd, 2021 03:01 am
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VelociRanger wrote:
As the title says the engine never reaches operating temp. Even if I let it idle for 30 minutes the needle never reaches the middle, maybe 1/4. I can also let it “warm” up, and when I drive it and I have to get into the gas a little bit I can watch the needle dip back down to cold. It used to not be a problem until recently when I started getting a CIL for P0128 I believe it is. My initial thought was the the thermostat was stuck open, most likely cause it seems. But, when I went to replace the thermostat one of the 3 bolts holding it on snapped. After I snapped it I figured I shouldn’t take it out until I find replacement bolts. HOWEVER, nobody makes 2.3 Duratec replacement thermostat housing bolts. They’re all for the 4.0. I also just read the the fan clutch could be stuck to always on. Is there a way to check the fan clutch, and also if anyone can find/has replacement thermostat bolts for a 2.3 let me know. Or if the 4.0 ones are the same.
Usually if a fan clutch is failing, the engine will want to overheat, and the issue is easy to test. IF the fan blade doesn't allow you to spin the fan at all, it could be stuck on but I'd have to say that is rare. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DOSKha6SE0

Assuming everything is OE, you're likely on the right trail changing the T-Stat which may be stuck open, end of problems.  I do recommend staying with the 50/50 mix and or a 60/40 mix. Don't use all coolant or all water, neither are good and despite what the Auto-parts store says, DO NOT switch to the new pink stuff from Ford on your Ranger, stick to the traditional green stuff, even in the synthetic.  We sell the Mishimoto version more so but if i can make a suggestion to save a little room to add a bottle or two of - "Watter-Wetter"  it helps keep temps a little cooler if you're in warmer climates with very little to no real winters (Considering Texas freak winter storm, lol you may have a harder decision ahead of you).


Also, a failing coolant temp sensor would be the next lesser expensive item to check and or rule out too.

If you have upgraded the Cooling system, for example on our '94 Ranger which now has a double & thicker cores, a lower temp T-stat, it's already prepped for an E-Fan swap, we did use a single bottle of the - Mishimoto Liquid Chill in place of the of Water-Wetter when we replaced the rad. Honestly, we don't have the right equipment to measure the differences between the two, both are great products in our opinion. but if you've done things, or maybe you received a lower temp T-stat unknowingly, these things would alter the normal resting position of your temp gauge.  Just thought I'd add that.



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 Posted: Sun May 23rd, 2021 06:24 am
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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The fan isn’t very hard to turn, but with engine off I can flick it with my finger and it spins 2 maybe 3 times so it’s a little stiff. I don’t know how it’s supposed to feel otherwise lol, still building experience in the ranger-verse. The owners manual says to use the motorcraft gold, or yellow colored. The previous owner used green and I’m thinking it’s possible that was the cause of the problem, the thermostat was the original Ford one. But, I didn’t see a buildup of rust or anything in the hoses or in the overflow. Also, the radiator doesn’t have a cap!! WTF!! You just fill it in the overflow container and I guess that’s it. There is no radiator cap, I promise. I’ve looked really hard cause my mind was being thrown for a loop. I filled it with  Zerex 50/50 Gold/Yellow from o’reilly’s. I’ve never really had an over heating issue, in the summer here the engine never really moved to middle except one time it went to exactly middle during traffic with the ac on full blast. I got a 190* thermostat which is what the oem motorcraft one is. If I do have problems though I will definitely use the products you mentioned above. Hopefully I don’t miss the guys call in the morning, I’m a really heavy sleeper lol.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Mon May 24th, 2021 07:03 pm
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VelociRanger
I’ll probably do it tomorrow


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Guy no call-no showed yesterday, that was fun. Luckily my mom was off today and I just borrowed the exploder to go to work. Called a local mechanic shop that everyone seems to love, $120 minimum just for removal of the bolts. Luckily I’ve got the bolts, thermostat and coolant already or else I’d get a markup on parts as well. Should have her back by this time tomorrow, if nothing goes wrong lol



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Wed May 26th, 2021 09:59 pm
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 VelociRanger wrote:
The fan isn’t very hard to turn, but with engine off I can flick it with my finger and it spins 2 maybe 3 times so it’s a little stiff. I don’t know how it’s supposed to feel otherwise lol, still building experience in the ranger-verse. The owners manual says to use the motorcraft gold, or yellow colored. The previous owner used green and I’m thinking it’s possible that was the cause of the problem, the thermostat was the original Ford one. But, I didn’t see a buildup of rust or anything in the hoses or in the overflow. Also, the radiator doesn’t have a cap!! WTF!! You just fill it in the overflow container and I guess that’s it. There is no radiator cap, I promise. I’ve looked really hard cause my mind was being thrown for a loop. I filled it with  Zerex 50/50 Gold/Yellow from o’reilly’s. I’ve never really had an over heating issue, in the summer here the engine never really moved to middle except one time it went to exactly middle during traffic with the ac on full blast. I got a 190* thermostat which is what the oem motorcraft one is. If I do have problems though I will definitely use the products you mentioned above. Hopefully I don’t miss the guys call in the morning, I’m a really heavy sleeper lol.
Sorry, I miss-spoke on the coolant not paying attention to the year.   Used to speaking to and about pre-2000's most times.  

If the Radiator doesnt have a cap, they generally call that a closed system and I believe is a 195, that is OE temp according to my replacement guides.  Ford states a 190* but then claims it may not open until 197* ??.  To me that would be a minimum of 195* but a 197* but hey, what do we know?  The one in our two rigs is a 180* because of our temps here in Las Vegas.  The thicker dual core radiator do quite a bit to keep the temps down, even under long times of idle.


.



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 Posted: Fri May 28th, 2021 02:38 am
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VelociRanger
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No worries, I’m pretty sure the green is basically considered the “universal” coolant. And yeah, I almost wish I had a pre-2000. Been thinking about selling my ranger again, wanting a single cab f150 with the 5 speed. But, I’m loving the 22 city mpg with the gas prices being so high right now lol. 

got her to the shop the other day, no word on it yet. But, I think I went to the right shop. I’ll show you pictures tomorrow of why I think that. 



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Sat May 29th, 2021 05:49 am
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It's a little late and I'm sure you figured out how they work but for anyone else following this with broken bolts heres a visual of left handed drill bit and screw extractors in use.



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 Posted: Sat May 29th, 2021 02:27 pm
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I couldn't watch the video. The guy sounds like a british Arnold Schwarzenegger kept on waiting for the break where he says "Oil be bock"



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 Posted: Tue Jun 22nd, 2021 02:46 am
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VelociRanger
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Got e truck back, took them 2 weeks to get to it so that sucked. They said they had to heli-coil it, I supplied the bolts and thermostat. $400 in labor. Truck reaches operating temp now, right smack in the middle.



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.

1983 Ranger, reluctantly taking apart. Donor/project vehicle.

1984 Ranger, currently in ≈861 pieces. She’s donating what’s salvageable.
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 Posted: Tue Jun 22nd, 2021 10:50 am
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As long as the end result is good!

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