12° North Industries
Joined: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017
Interests: The great outdoors, nature, back to basics
Reputation Points: 645
As the title says the engine never reaches operating temp. Even if I let it idle for 30 minutes the needle never reaches the middle, maybe 1/4. I can also let it “warm” up, and when I drive it and I have to get into the gas a little bit I can watch the needle dip back down to cold. It used to not be a problem until recently when I started getting a CIL for P0128 I believe it is. My initial thought was the the thermostat was stuck open, most likely cause it seems. But, when I went to replace the thermostat one of the 3 bolts holding it on snapped. After I snapped it I figured I shouldn’t take it out until I find replacement bolts. HOWEVER, nobody makes 2.3 Duratec replacement thermostat housing bolts. They’re all for the 4.0. I also just read the the fan clutch could be stuck to always on. Is there a way to check the fan clutch, and also if anyone can find/has replacement thermostat bolts for a 2.3 let me know. Or if the 4.0 ones are the same.
Usually if a fan clutch is failing, the engine will want to overheat, and the issue is easy to test. IF the fan blade doesn't allow you to spin the fan at all, it could be stuck on but I'd have to say that is rare. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DOSKha6SE0
Assuming everything is OE, you're likely on the right trail changing the T-Stat which may be stuck open, end of problems. I do recommend staying with the 50/50 mix and or a 60/40 mix. Don't use all coolant or all water, neither are good and despite what the Auto-parts store says, DO NOT switch to the new pink stuff from Ford on your Ranger, stick to the traditional green stuff, even in the synthetic. We sell the Mishimoto version more so but if i can make a suggestion to save a little room to add a bottle or two of - "Watter-Wetter" it helps keep temps a little cooler if you're in warmer climates with very little to no real winters (Considering Texas freak winter storm, lol you may have a harder decision ahead of you).
Also, a failing coolant temp sensor would be the next lesser expensive item to check and or rule out too.
If you have upgraded the Cooling system, for example on our '94 Ranger which now has a double & thicker cores, a lower temp T-stat, it's already prepped for an E-Fan swap, we did use a single bottle of the - Mishimoto Liquid Chill in place of the of Water-Wetter when we replaced the rad. Honestly, we don't have the right equipment to measure the differences between the two, both are great products in our opinion. but if you've done things, or maybe you received a lower temp T-stat unknowingly, these things would alter the normal resting position of your temp gauge. Just thought I'd add that.
James / Elena / Brendon / Sean
12° North Industries
Las Vegas, Nevada 89118