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1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part II       #: 1828
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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 01:43 pm
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mhoward
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@Eddie: you're too funny! Seems like a million years since that movie came out. Oh wait...

Yep, 1977!



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Dec 7th, 2019 02:41 pm
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410customs

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I was 4 when the Bandit came out.....oh man I love those movies we were just talking about them the other day
I vaguely remember my parents taking me to see that movie in the theater!! And they wonder why I had so many speeding tickets as a kid....sheesh

Wicked cool you found your rear axle and your doors!!

Last edited on Sat Dec 7th, 2019 02:42 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Sun Dec 8th, 2019 04:49 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Awesome indeed! Pre 2011 rear ends are much easier to come by, for sure.

Now here's hoping they pass my sniff test when I go to pick them up. That's one thing I don't like about someone pulling my parts for me, is I dont' get to see them in person until they're already pulled.

That said, this is the same place I got my powerdome, so I shouldn't have much to worry about.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 9th, 2019 05:30 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Finding the right donor so far has been slow.

The running theme thus far is the explorer falls into one of three categories, with some overlap.
1. Way too expensive.
2. Complete rag.
3. Wrong year range/engine size

I took another look at what changed throughout the years, to see if I could widen my horizon any, but it seems that any significant changes from 98 or older would make the swap more difficult than it will already be.

Although a lack of PATS would make things easier, and I doubt a lower fuel pressure with a return line would make things scarier, one thing that caught my eye was how the speedo gets it's signal.

From 98 and earlier, it comes from the transmission/transfer case, not the rear axle like my Ranger.

I'm satisfied that the signal coming from the two sensors are different, and therefor are decoded differently, making swapping from one system to another not an easy feat.

So, looks like it would be wise to keep with a 99 to 01.


That said, I'm considering perhaps buying a complete vehicle from my local salvage yard, as explorers in this year range are easy to come by from that yard. I would likely have to trailer it home, but I expected to have to trailer it to that yard after the swap anyway.

I may be able to get one cheaper this way, which means more funds to put towards other parts and tune up components.


Whichever way I go, I also noticed a couple other things while reading a tech article on this swap. The 5.0's radiator apparently is twice as thick, and some people have reported having issues keeping the trans temp cool with an electric fan.

My Ranger has a two speed Taurus e fan, and I wish to stick with it. Depending on how the expo radiator looks, it may be in my best interest to swap in the expo radiator, or buy a new radiator if this one is less than favorable.

Just looked them up on rockauto. I can get one for around $100, but I noticed a difference. One is listed with a 1" core depth, and the other a 2 1/4" core depth. The Ranger radiator selections do not list core depth options. That said, we'll figure that out when we get there. Obviously the more parts I can reuse the better off I am, with some exceptions.

Back to the trans temps for a moment, I would like to add more cooling to the trans to keep it comfy. My Ranger has a cooler on it already, and I suspect the Expo will as well. I could plumb them up in series, save myself a few dollars and call it a day, or I could hop on ebay and get a bigger cooler. They appear to be $40 on up to whatever you want to pay, so not a huge cost to consider.

The deeper I dive into this, the more I realize that there are going to be a lot of little things that will have to be sorted out, beyond the big things at play here. And we've only started contemplating the engine swap, lol.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 9th, 2019 12:10 pm
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mhoward
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Hey, you didn't mention the radiator thing to me, but I have info for you.  During my research of the Volvo e-fan conversion, I found specs on the Ranger cooling:

Ford Ranger fan shroud dimensions:
Width: 24"
Height: 22" (does not include the mounting lug)

Radiator dimensions (3.0L & 4.0L)
Bottom Header: 3 1/16" X 23 13/16"
Core Size: 20 3/4" x 23 5/16" x 1"
Material: Plastic/aluminum
Rows: 1
Top Header: 3 1/16" X 23 13/16"
-----
Core Depth (in): 1
Core Height (in): 23-3/4
Core Width (in): 20-3/4
Inlet Connection (in): 1-1/2
Outlet Connection (in): 1-1/2
Rows: 1

Trans Oil Cooler (in): 1

You will notice that there is a slight discrepancy here; not much, but a little in the core height.  I kept both sets of specs and thought at some time, I will do some measurements of my own to compare.  Anyway, hope this helps some.



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Mon Dec 9th, 2019 01:35 pm
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410customs

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Good info here, interesting to see what others go through when contemplating the conversion

Bolt in or not this is still a drive train conversion and there are lots of things to know
You are doing great!!



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 Posted: Tue Dec 10th, 2019 06:21 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Thanks, I'm certainly trying to prepare myself as much as I can.

Didn't get a call from Liberty today, but I'm not too surprised as the guy on the phone mentioned they were pretty deep in orders.

As far as the Ranger sits, I've got the wheel polished and painted, I just need to get the excess off. I ruined one of my wheels when a caliper bolt came loose and chewed out the inside of the wheel. This happened twice before I realized what was going on.

First time, I was using crappy old tires. When it went flat, it didn't raise my alarm as they were onion skins. Second time it happened, the tire had fresh tread.... but was a 16 inch wheel, not a 15. At first it was suspected there were clearance issues, until the glaring hole on the inside of the wheel became obvious. And by hole, I absolutely mean a hole, one that you can put your fist into with room to spare.

Make sure those caliper bolts are tight, people!

When these tires wear out, Goodyear Wranglers, I'm going to go with something better. I've never been awed by their performance. For a $70 tire, it's not terrible, but I know there's better. If anyone has suggestions for a good tire for a 4x4 (stock size), feel free to toss the suggestions my way.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 10th, 2019 01:32 pm
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AND LOC TITE those SOBS
I have seen caliper bolts come out a time or two over the years, they will cut a wheel right in half. One guy I know had the bolt back out while doing 70 down vail pass with his family in the explorer!!! So glad they were able to get off the road safely.......
Happened on my wifes yota too almost cut her wheel in half, its not just Ford.
Loc tite red and torque wrench for caliper bolts

Last edited on Tue Dec 10th, 2019 01:32 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Tue Dec 10th, 2019 01:35 pm
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mhoward
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410customs wrote:
AND LOC TITE those SOBS
I have seen caliper bolts come out a time or two over the years, they will cut a wheel right in half. One guy I know had the bolt back out while doing 70 down vail pass with his family in the explorer!!! So glad they were able to get off the road safely.......
Happened on my wifes yota too almost cut her wheel in half, its not just Ford.
Loc tite red and torque wrench for caliper bolts

I wholeheartedly agree!



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Wed Dec 11th, 2019 07:09 am
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I got a call from Liberty today just minutes before my shift started. I'll be picking up the parts tomorrow, assuming they are as they should be.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 11th, 2019 05:21 pm
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I'm back with parts!

The diff has no tag on it, but after pounding the drums off I was able to confirm that it is limited slip, and since that is correct I also presume it is 4:10, but no way to know that I know of. That diff cover is really pitted though. I could get another off an expo 8.8, or I could order an aftermarket one. I'm interested in one of those aluminum ones with the drain bolt and cooling fins.

The doors are rust free, and are a deep wedgewood blue. No problems there.

Unfortunately, they don't come with door panels or the switches. They wanted an extra $75 per side for those. Yeah, no thanks.

That said, I've got glass, speakers, locks, and window motors. No mirrors, but this year model wasn't 06 or newer anyway.

The driver's side harness is going to need some work, though. Instead of just unplugging it, they cut the damn plug off. I'm just so thrilled about that, (not), so I'll be doing some patch work it seems.

Otherwise, the parts I got are solid and are perfectly serviceable for my plans.

I'm going to try and reuse my door panels and just swap the door handle bezels out. To plug the hole, I'm thinking about getting a white or red LED light to stick in, to act sort of like that marker light on the expo doors. Haven't decided on that, yet.

The rear end is going to get some treatment before going under.

Mustang brake hardware, new bearings, new clutches, and of course new fluid. They drained the old fluid out, so I have to refill it to use it. That, with some new paint and a new cover and it goes under the Ranger.














Last edited on Wed Dec 11th, 2019 05:22 pm by TheArcticWolf1911



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It has been brought to my attention that I need to make some clarifications.

1. I believe these doors should have come with door panels and mirrors, absolutely. The guy on the phone warned me in advance that I may not get them, and I proceeded anyway. My goal was to obtain rust free doors in good condition with the power options installed, or at least in a box. The mirrors that would have came on these doors would have been chucked in the trash and replaced with 06 mirrors, so I consider not getting them at all completely null on the price. I have door bezels and switches, so I'm not upset about that. I could have argued with them until I was blue as the doors, but I would have left with the same amount of parts either way, just later in the day and irritated for no good reason. That's not the hill I choose to die on, so to speak. At best, they would have offered me a discount of 50 per side. Still $100 that I don't need to spend on them.

This also allows me to reuse more parts. Unless someone wants just the bare doors coming off Gold Dust, they'll likely be scrapped. I don't wish to throw away my good door panels, and I'm running low on room to store things anyway.

2. I didn't notice the door harness was cut until I got home. Had I noticed, I would have mentioned it. But I didn't, so I didn't. It never occurred to me that they would have just lopped it off. Lesson learned the hard way, as goes my life.

3. "That diff doesn't have it's tag. You don't know what it truly is." True. I did notice the tag was gone before I left, and I mentioned that. When they said they drained the fluid out of it, that's where I believe the tag went missing. I also have no reason to believe that the carrier was messed with at all. Why? The drums still had those factory retaining clips on them, and the hardware inside appears to be from the factory still, 140K miles ago. If the owner never bothered to check the brakes or have someone check it, I don't find it likely that the same owner would have had the diff cracked open.

There is also a warranty on this. If it turns out to not be what I bought, I have every foot to stand on and say "I bought a 4:10 limited slip rear end, this is not it, now give me what I paid for". Albeit more diplomatic, but you get the point.

My main goal was the major components that aren't so easily sourced by other means. I believe I achieved that goal, although maybe I could have done better for the price I paid, but I got what I primarily came for. My options for some of these parts aren't plentiful within the realm of practicality / feasibility.

And yes, that is a Ski can in the bed. Good stuff.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 12th, 2019 01:49 am
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Correct me if I'm wrong but this is simple math. With everything together, mark the yolk and the axel. If its 4:10 to 1 gears it should rotate the yolk a hair more than 4 full turns to one rotation of the axel. If this was in a truck all together, youd count the drive shaft rotations per one revolution of the tire.

Last edited on Thu Dec 12th, 2019 01:57 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Thu Dec 12th, 2019 02:07 am
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yes
with the limited slip carrier you can mark the driveshaft and make a mark on the tire.
Rotate tire 360 and count driveshaft rotations
Yours will go 4 and then stop, clearly 4.10 ratio

If the axle was an open carrier (no limited slip traction device) then it would require you to turn the tire twice and count the rotations to get the full 4.1 turns

3.5 turns is 3.55, 3.75 turns is 3.73 and so forth
we don't need no stinkin tags!!


Look into the diff covers that not only have the drain port but also have the main bearing cap support girdles :)
Summit has these, Ford SVO used to make them too......

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/differential-covers?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=ford%208.8%20girdle%20cover

silly yards always putting holes in things and cutting wires

Last edited on Thu Dec 12th, 2019 02:14 am by 410customs



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 Posted: Thu Dec 12th, 2019 05:47 am
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I'll give that a try tomorrow. No wheels on it atm, so I have to put it up on stands and turn it that way.

Now if I'm correct, a cover for an 8.8 will fit any 8.8, regardless of it being on a Ranger, Expo, Mustang, F150, etc, right?

I saw one that ChrisFix put on his "DriftStang" that I thought was a nice design. Aluminum with cooling fins, fill and drain port, and I think optional ports for a cooling radiator and temp sensor port. Not that I need those last couple things, but they're nice to have.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 12th, 2019 05:40 pm
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yes 8.8 cover is a 8.8 cover
all 8.8 use same cover AND ring and pinion gears
The stud girdle gives extra support to the carrier bearings where they need it most, really increasing the strength of your 8.8 (not that they need it, a 31 spline large tube 8.8 is as strong as a dana 60)

Let us know what you find out!
battle on



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 Posted: Thu Dec 12th, 2019 06:28 pm
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Cool, that'll make shopping for one easier.

Marked the yoke and spun the hub, 4:10. So, we've got a winner!

Had a closer look at the brake hardware on it, and it doesn't look like anything is worth keeping. Drums need to be turned, springs are likely not all that great, and while the wheel cylinders aren't leaking, they are way rusty. The shoes..... Well, they're pretty thin.

So, it's all going in the trash once I take it apart. The brake parts, that is. I may hang onto the mounting brackets.



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I've made a decision.

Over the next couple checks, I'm going to start working on the suspension components. Get the truck as ready as I can to receive it's five liter heart.

That includes the rear end (and it's new hardware), leaf spring bushings, front control arms and tie rods. I think I'm going to try and get some more steering angle while I have it up in the air.

I saw a video, also by ChrisFix, where he took out the rack limiters to get more steering angle. He ran into contact issues, but solved it with wheel spacers. I won't be running spacers, but I'd be interested in seeing how much room I have to play with. If there's no room for more movement, then I guess I won't be getting any more.

Of course the doors will find their way on as well. I have to wait for payday before I can proceed. Next friday. Stay tuned!



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When I replaced the diff cover on my 06. I used a cover from and 06 explorer with IRS. The irs covers are finned aluminum with a drain and fill plug



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good info there! I had heard that before and forgotten
I just put gen III diff cover on my junkyard needs list


Rear drum brake parts are CHEAP and you are going disks....trash that junk. I would save the drums as scrap steel.

Plans sound good
Interesting info about getting more "steering angle" first I have ever heard of this idea!



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I love this!

Wishing you best of luck :)



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black06xlt wrote:
When I replaced the diff cover on my 06. I used a cover from and 06 explorer with IRS. The irs covers are finned aluminum with a drain and fill plug
Didn't know this, Adam. Do all 2002 and up Expos have IRS or was it an option? Our PnP yard has many gen 3 Expos but I've never looked under them as they just look so... PEDESTRIAN. LOL  I plan to change the fluid in my rear diff this spring and that would be a perfect time to put one of these finned aluminum covers on my '03 Edge.



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So many mods... so little time...



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I actually have an IRS cover I got from Adam in one of our 30 deals or so LOL. I have to lop the ears off and mill some fins out. I wonder if there is anything you could do with those ears, they have a huge tapped hole in them maybe some stabilizer or sway link contraption. Or red reflectors. :)



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño

I don't wear a mask and I have no regrets (Brent Smith)
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 Posted: Sat Dec 14th, 2019 12:48 am
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mhoward
Hey look ↓ they ↓ bounce!


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I'm voting for the red reflectors! :)



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-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 Open 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sat Dec 14th, 2019 03:10 pm
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410customs

Idahome


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led diff lights!!!



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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks
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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Member's Projects Showcase > 1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part II

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